3rd Gen Sanded Dipstick

They tried didn't they, same as insurance companies.

 

We see more leaks, but we have colder temps and remote starters so our fuel contamination is much higher in the oil. You can typically smell it while draining.

No tech here goes over 6000 miles.

not quite apples to apples.

 

Bishop you alluded to some good points. Driving habits and environmental factors need consideration. Short heat cycles, and so on. Blanket recommendations should never be considered as hard rules.

 

my ticking noise at idle and high RPM rattle went away after my last oil change. used 5w-30 this time instead of 0w-20 because i got a good deal on bulk oil. 2TR-FE.

 

Aw man... I checked the oil the other night, saw how well you could read the scratched up dipstick and...here we are.

 

Thanks man! I was in a meeting with my Canadian colleague and he was wearing a heavy jacket. It's still 80 down here in SC.

 

It got up to 87 in Cincinnati, way too warm. A big cool down is coming this weekend, maybe it will finally feel like fall.

 

Stick around, read some posts, be nice, be open to suggestions and talk some shit in a nice way! Most of us do and we have a lot of fun, especially Fridays.

 

Will do. Yeah I'm a bit of an old curmudgeon at times.

 

BTW one of the first thing I did to my TRD was sand the tip of my dipstick. Lol

Seriously though it was pretty much impossible to read. She was a half quart over filled, not sure if that was the factory or the port/dealer. Not a huge issue but not great either.

 

I r a mecanik and I change my oil @ 16,000kms. Hell I changed my oil whenever the mood felt right on my Mustangs that I beat the living shit out of... most likely well over 16,000kms... on conventional oils. I have never had an engine failure. One 5.0L engine I did a dirt ring and bearing rebuild at about 260,000kms and then flogged it on the track to a 13.08 @ 103.56mph on the track... and I still didn't change the oil on any consistent basis.

My truck has had an oil change once a year since new... I don't typically make the 16,000kms so I do it on it's birthday. But I also don't idle the shit out of it and drive it like a boy racer... is there any other way?

 

don't want to hijack the thread... but 13.08 @103.56 is respectable. Can you tell us some more about that 5.0L pony?

 

1982 Mustang GT that was originally a super rare 255ci C5 auto combo. I bought it as a wreck and built up my old 1986 5.0L engine for it. Converted it to Mass Air EFI. Swapped to E7TE heads, port matched factory EFI manifold, 65mm throttle body and EGR spacer. A T-Bird Super Coupe 70mm MAS. 1½" unequal length shorty header with a 2 ½" catless H-pipe and a 2 ½ Dynomax Super Turbo muffler kit.

Converted the auto to a T-5 out of a '93 and the rear diff was an 8.8" out of an "88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe with factory 3.55 gears. With solid control arms and G78-15 Cheater slicks.

The best I could get out of the hole was at 3000 RPM.... anything more and I spun hard and blew my 60" time out the window. And through the traps I wasn't topping out 4th gear. I really needed 3.73's or possibly 4.10's with a true slick.

 

Great story!
My first new car was a 82 Gt with a 4 speed. In 1980 and 1981 the Mustang came with a 4.2L producing 120 hp. The lowest power ever for a V8 Mustang. In 1982 they put the 5.0L back in and as I understood they put a cam in it from their marine division. 2 barrel carburetor and single flow exhaust netting 185 hp. The only North American car quicker than it in '82 was the Vette. While 185 hp seems paltry I had a lot of fun beating Z28s in races. Reality hit home one day when I tried to pass a 440 Charger on the highway, lol. I felt this was the car that set things in motion to get where we are today. Chev and Ford played cat and mouse for a number of years adding 4 barrels, dual exhaust, fuel injection, etc.

 

Do you have proof of that?

 

The Boss is Back! It was a fun car. Over the years I had 9 or 10 Fox body Mustangs, including 2 SVO's. Then I discovered 4×4ing.... then it seems I got old! Now I just respond to oil interval threads on the internet

 

As far as I know every manufacturer does that now. But it doesn't matter, as an engine wears in, metal fragments are produced.

 

Yes.

 

Google Mobil 1 20,000 mile filter.

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...ries/mobil-1-extended-performance-oil-filters

 

I'll jump into the mosh pit

From what i've seen with Chevy's, 10'000Mi(16'000km) oil changes are okay for people that are primarily highway drivers. For people that just drive around town and rarely if ever go over 70Kph. Especially short distance drivers. 8000kms (5000Mi) is too long even. (Vehicle will throw a fuel trim rich code from fuel dilution and fuel trim will return to normal with the dipstick pulled or oil cap removed) cold oil will also drain as fast as warm from the fuel dilution in the winter.

I typically aim to change mine every 10'000kms (~6000Mi) which is usually every second month for me but, if the truck doesn't get to operating temperature going to work then i'll probably aim closer to 5000kms or every 3rd month. Whereas if I drive across Canada. Leave and return to -40* and rack up 15'000kms on the trip, I'll be in no panic to change the oil since it basically lived at operating temperature and had ample time to boil out it's contaminates.

Oil change interval isn't a one size fits all. If you're a short tripper in Alaska that doesn't see operating temperature for more than 5minutes then you should change your oil like way too often. If you're a long hauler who drives back and forth across the country and sees 1000kms+ daily, you could honestly probably push 80'000kms+ intervals if your engine was in good shape and ran a very very good oil like "high performance lubricants"