3rd Gen Slider Cost Comparison

Thank you for taking the time to collect this data to a single source. Makes it easier to narrow down what your options are.

It would be really cool to see some data on slider angle and distance from frame to outside of slider. I've seen quite a few people ask which sliders are the tightest to the cab. I've also seen people ask which sliders are at 0° so they can use it as a step. I on the other hand am interested in finding out which sticks out the furthest to match the width of my wheel offset.

 

Would make the most sense to measure the distance out from the frame to the outside of the tubing and up from the bottom of that frame to the top of the tubing. If those two measurements are provided, angle really doesn't matter. The angle is just one of the ways to effect those measurements, but not the only way so it won't give a complete picture of the sliders.

 

Yea, we sell a lot of sliders to ppl that have already smashed their rocker panel.

 

This isn't something that every manufacturer provides, and to be completely frank I'd rather not ask every vendor for this information. If they would like to post it here that's fine; I know some vendors offer different options for angles but not everyone does this.

 

just to update for anyone interested.

i received my SDHQ sliders today. they are raw steel and need to be treated. but i did weigh them, and they are indeed super light! welds and metal finishing is awesome, and chrome moly all the way.

one side:


all hardware:

 

Shipping is the bonus kick in the ass on sliders, bumpers and whatnot.

I've been looking around and for a bolt on set for a dclb (kickout, no-fill) they're all in the high 600 to 700 and add 150-200 for shipping.....some hitting 1k shipped.

And as far as DOM vs HREW you can read about it here from marlin crawler....
http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=60158.0

 

Has anyone compiled the locations of the company's on this list? I'd probably buy local if I can save $200 on shipping by just driving down to pick them up.

 

Ok I went and hunted down as many as I could. Feel free to add corrections and whatnot.

4X Innovations 52 Means Dr # 110, Platteville, WI 53818
Brut Force Fab 3240 N Marks Ave, Fresno, CA 93722, United States
Mobtown Offroad 766 Industry Ln, Greensboro, MD 21639
Avid Offroad 103 17998, 5305, 85242 186th St, Queen Creek, AZ 85142
Bay Area Metal Fabrication (BAMF) 510 Stone Rd, Benicia, CA 94510
Caliraised 8581 Roland St. Buena Park, CA 90621
Hefty Fabworks 1105, 5305 Appaloosa Dr, Colorado Springs, CO 80923
Shrockworks 16011 Hollister St STE D, Houston, TX 77066
SDHQ 1720 West Elliot Road, Gilbert, Arizona, 85233
All Pro 5356 E. Pine Ave. Fresno CA 93727
Demello 12785 Magnolia Ave, Riverside, CA 92503
CBI 792 E Iona Rd, Idaho Falls, ID 83401
Relentless Fabrication 450 Coney Island Dr, Sparks, NV 89431
C4 Fabrication 3461 Whitewood Service Rd, Sturgis, SD 57785
RCI 6144 County Rd. 80, Fort Collins CO 80524
White Knuckle 308739238, Apple Valley, CA 92308
Relations Race Wheels N/A
Victory 4x4 9350 Shaver Rd, Portage, MI 49024
OPOR N/A
Metaltech 4x4 2700 E 9th St #200, Newberg, OR 97132
Rocky Road Outfitters 1920 Wendell Ln, Heber City, UT 84032
RSG Metalworks N/A
Bud Built 2647 Hickory Blvd. Hudson NC 28638
P-P Engineering N/A
Off Camber Fab (MBRP) 315 Old Ferguson Rd. Huntsville ON Canada P1H 2J2
SOS Concepts 970 State Rd S-30-289, Laurens, SC 29360
Slee 700 Pine Ridge Rd, Golden, CO 80403

 

I think mobtown is in Delaware now

 

Marlin Crawler makes sliders too. Not 3G specific though, but would still fit.

https://www.marlincrawler.com/armor/side

Maybe @BigMike can chime in on his sliders.

 

FYI, that's not their address. I found that too on Google maps, drove over and found a field. They are in Loveland near the UPS customer center. Forgot the actual address. Call before you go and don't go to country rd 80

 

Great info!

 

Note, no ax to grind here, I don't work for any of these suppliers.

I just want to say that as a stress analyst I find all the discussions on the material selection awfully pendantic.

All these tests mean nothing near the heat affected zone (HAZ). (Which is located usually right at the location of maximum bending moments most of the time. The heat kills a lot of the work hardening that you get from drawing over a mandrel)

In my opinion, in general for same basic cross-section (dia and thickness), gusset and weld details will have a much bigger impact than the exact material (for same basic cross-section in mild steels)
Obviously if somebody is using 4130N, that is a different animal.

So what do I recommend.... It probably matters less than we think. Go with item that has good attachment and gussets that you like dealing with... just my 2 cents..

Question. Do people really 'fail' a slider by denting it... really ever?

 

SOS concepts have weld on (not on site) for $350 with kickout, +$140 (I think) for plates, and +100 for them to weld them on. @EddyRRT

 

I'll throw 5 cents in on that statement.

 

i haven't read much detail in here about HREW vs DOM, and i know there's at least one thread on it. no need to be pendantic, i agree. but the only focus i had here was about weight. i got SDHQ's because they are lighter than most, and they aren't cheap ones... the build and design from an aesthetic standpoint is great, which is what i was looking for. and then i found out they are the only chrome moly ones out there (that i've seen). for sliders i couldn't actually care less. if DOM or HREW were 40lbs per side and an equally good design and all, then i'd have those instead. the SDHQ's are 44lbs ea side w/o hardware.

having said all that, i haven't looked at the difference in bracketing, gusseting, and fastening in these. for my usage it doesn't matter. but for the hardcore guys actually sliding on these in a weighed down truck, maybe it does, maybe not. so this begs the question, what kind of heat are you talking about that would possibly compromise strength to the point of actual failure... not a dent but a failure affecting performance? or does it really not even matter? opinion, of course.

 

Weld puddle during manufacture (for welded steel only in proximity to the weld... generally within a couple of thickness (t) away from the weld)

(Choice of weld rod can help in the puddle itself. Outside the puddle you are stuck with base metal, that has been heated to cherry hot, killing any work hardening. If you electric weld it, the adjoining metal can partially quench it back somewhat if it is a heat treatable alloy)

2 cents is that it doesn't matter that much for our purposes, certainly not as much as people think. The key is to accept that you have it, so gusset such that at the worst affected areas you have reduced the bending moments, and run the gusset out such that the HAZ is small where the gusset ends and you are close to base properties. (Dont just butt a tube into a flat plate with large bending moments without gussets in the loaded plane), that is putting all the stress of the joint on heat affected zone without any assistance from gussets.)

 

oh, ok, i misunderstood you. you are referring to heat exposure in welding/manufacturing. so, this is entirely out of the end user's hands. was wondering about that since i thought you were referring to heat exposure during use, like from the exhaust proximity. but this now makes sense.

 

Those are really interesting sliders. They decreased the wall thickness of the tubing, I assume to save weight. But I'm not sure why they changed to 4130. It doesn't seem to have much benefit in this application. When designing sliders, we are mostly mitigating deflection. We are almost entirely in the elastic region of the material, so yield strength really doesn't play a role in determining how much the sliders will flex. Mostly it's material (elastic modulus, basically the same for all steels), wall thickness and cross section shape (area moment of inertia), and the force of course are the only contributing factors to determining how much flex you'll get from the tubing (design of the support structure plays a role as well). Since the elastic modulus is nearly the same for all steels, I don't really understand why they use 4130. They could have gotten the same weight saving by using a more common steel and made them much more affordable. Also, I imagine they had a hell of a time dealing with the additional flex from lower the wall thickness. I assume they had to come up with a clever design to add extra support to mitigate that.

 

yeah it is a bit odd, because the cost is high, they're the only ones using it... and they aren't really marketing the point. unless, of course, your customers just choose based on price, in this case the most expensive sliders you can find. i chose based on weight and aesthetics, and these are indeed purdy. strange that they aren't pushing the chrome moly as a marketing point, since according to you there are cheaper ways to go light w/o performance loss.