3rd Gen Tacoma Bed Storage/Platform Build

I like that you took your platform all the way to the walls of the bed.
And sounds good, your thinking seems to be very close to what I had drawn up lol! Although I was debating between having some cut 1/4” aluminum for the sides (like prinsu) and using 2”x1” for the sides pieces so I could easily attach things like an awning to the side. Stoked to see yours come together. The feet are the one things I haven’t figured out yet.

 

Here's my all plywood build, but you have me inspired to try 80/20.

 

That’s slick. Like your design.

8020 is great but it really starts to add up. Definitely cuts down on the weight so that’s the trade off for cost.

 

This is what I am using for the roof rack.

Sides and front.

https://8020.net/shop/1012-s-black-fb.html

Blue tape is just to protect the finish while working on it.







These are for the two front corners.

https://8020.net/shop/4041-black.html

They are pricey so for the back I will just use a 2x1 section. They use special screws linked on that page. I designed some plugs to go in those holes that can be 3D printed as well as a top piece for it to cover the top hole.

Both the front and back are tied in with external fasteners as well. For the front it is just added support. The rear has one of the external fasteners linked below and I also will us one of the hidden fasteners at the very back so it is flush with the side rails. Hidden fasteners are linked below.

https://8020.net/shop/4136-black.html

I get most of my fasteners/screws etc from an eBay supplier called TNutz. They sell a internal angle bracket for the 10 series that will be used to tie in the sides and the 2x1.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TNUTZ-10-S...131448?hash=item3ac14caf38:g:8mwAAOSw-RRXCqtk

Also 8020 has an eBay store. Worth checking out you can get better deals on it but it’s all precut stuff. There are other suppliers on eBay for stainless fasteners as well that I am using.

The feet I just used 1” flat steel. Bent it in my vice. I 3D printed a template that I used to make sure they were all consistent. It worked pretty well. I used a grinder to round and finish them. I had a can of plastidip so that’s what I sprayed them with. It works well. I did 6 coats.





I also found out that the cost for the black anodized 8020 is almost double the plain silver. So if you don’t care, you can really cut cost there.

Once I piece it all together I will try and do a formal write up and it’s own thread.

 

Wow wow wow this is incredible. So clean and well thought out. I really like the finish of the wood and the drawer dividers. Did you dado the sidewalls of the drawer? Also really like those multi-level slide outs. For your aluminum edging, did you use a router to mill down the wood so it would be flush?

 

Thanks, it sure does add up but I was lucky enough to score a good amount for free.
Your roofrack looks awesome I really dig that. Question about the internal fasteners: I bought some of those from McMaster but they really didn’t hold well. I’d end up stripping the Allen key hole in an effort to get it tightened down enough. Have you had this issue or do you use any loctite to supplement?

 

When you get that write up done throw the link to it in here, I’d love to check it out. Like I said before, this is almost exactly what I had drawn up I’m solidworks with the intention to buy parts. So I really want to know how it works for you and how it holds up.

 

Finished the wood with Helmsman Spar/Varnish high gloss. Used a marine grade birch for construction. No Dados were used in this system but that is something I am looking to change here in my next version. The aluminum edging was just laid over the carpet that’s on top of the wood. The carpet was sponges enough to become flush once screwed down

 

Well very nicely done man, this build looks awesome and really functional.
I still gotta add a finish to mine still, several people have suggested the one you chose so i might go that route. I really wanted to go a little further by cutting a baseplate out of 3/4" ply to mount to and then building up a shelf that I could access through my windoor. Maybe in the future, but for now i've got enough going on back there.

 

With my limited experimentation so far I’d agree that there could be issues. I was able to get the ones I bought tight enough without stripping, but they are way to short. There is only a couple threads left to hold. I’m planning on replacing them with button heads if I can find them or at least longer headless screws. Id also like to replace them with stainless anyway. Worst case I will abandoned them and just go with outside fasteners for the corners similar to what I’m using for the front and rear. I’ll post what I end up doing. I’m going to hit up Fastenal or my small local hardware store next week to see what I can find.

 

How did you attach your slides to the 80/20? how sturdy is it?

 

The bottom of the 8020 frames are 2x1s. Each one is bolted to the bed of the truck. The sliders holes line up with the t-slots on the 2x1s which I used to bolt them. I use five 1/4-20 furniture bolts for each one. The furniture bolts have a large flat thin head which works well with the sliders. I’ve had no issues. I’ve put over 200lbs on the slide out tray and had no problems. Sliders are rated at 500lbs.

 

@Sauzacoma

Made it the hardware store today. I think I will use button heads with lock washers to secure the internal fasteners. They hold tight with no issues of stripping the hex heads. The one in the very back will use one longer set screw that I found for them since a button head won’t fit (See pics)





Put the crossbar on the roof and tested the feet out.

 

Oh there ya go that’s much better! What thread are your fasteners? My internal ones used a smaller thread than 1/4-20 (I got mine through McMaster though). I probably should go through 8020.inc

I did have another question, can you explain your 3D printed template for the bends you did on the feet? I’m curious how that worked. The feet are the only part I’m not sure about doing myself.

Looking good though I can’t wait to get going on my rack!

 

I ordered mine through TNutz on EBay. 8020 doesn’t sell them for the 10 Series. The ones I got are M5 0.8. The hardware store near me only had 10mm in length. I think 8mm would be better so I ordered them. Plus they are way cheaper. I ordered stainless washers and lock washers as well.

I CAD’d up the feet in Fusion 360 with drill holes and then printed it out. I used it as a gauge when I was bending the feet in the vice. And then to line up where to drill the holes. Worked real well.

Each foot is 6” when flat. I bent them at the 1”, 2”, 4”, 5” marks and then cut it at the 6”. I would bend one out and then cut it which gives you better leverage when bending.

I just used my cheap harbor freight vise and a hammer to bend the flat steel. I wish I had a bigger vice but didn’t want to buy one. They would have come out a little better.

They were super easy to make. Took about an hour plus time to plastidip them.

I have a harbor freight bench grinder and small drill press to finish them up.

I drilled the holes big so there’d Be some play because I knew they weren’t perfect.

 

That's sweet dude, well you're definitely beating me to the punch but I'm lovin watching along for now! I can't wait to get mine going and post it to see what ya thing.

 

What have people done to deal with water intrusion and treating wood (or picking wood) to resist rot)? I have a little build out (I can get pictures later), but recently there has been too much water intrusion (from camper shell) and the ply wood used (sprayed with a clear coat for outdoor use) has started rotting and warping.

 

I’ve managed to seal up my shell. I have no water intrusion. The only time I get water in is when I have the tail open. It took me a lot of time to track down all the holes and seal it up. For the wood, I used 1/2 Baltic burch ply wood and a marine grade ply wood that was originally flooring from a sprinter van. On the Baltic burch I used several coats of a marine grade spar urithan. The deck is covered with black coin flooring. Also I have no wood touching the bottom of the bed. The extruded aluminum frame keeps everything up.

 

So I’m lookin on 8020 site now, deciding between (fractional) 10 series and the 40mm x 80mm. The pro for 10 series is tnutz sells the fasteners, however it is more expensive than 40x80. Which did you choose?

 

Liking the 8020 roof rack setup. I bet it's strong, and it looks professional for a fraction of the cost.