3rd gen which is the alternator positive that should be run to battery

I’m doing the big 3 upgrade and I can’t find anything on here. I’ve traced my +- cables and all I see is them running into starter and the black and blue cable that runs from under the relay box or into it goes to the only post with a red insulation protective cover. Is this where I’m supposed to run my positive 2 gauge wire to?

 

Never mind I figured it out but damn that’s a mfer to get big hands to lol

 

Post some pics if you can man, I may want to do the same . What kit did you use if you don’t mind me asking. Or did you just piece together your own kit?

 

I got you bro

 

I used 2/0 EWCS OFC welding cable and solder pellets and an IWISS lug crimper then wrapped them with 1/2 inch Alex tech red/black braided loom then used 3M high heat electrical tape and Tessa tape at the lugs. Also Tessa taped the whole cable before I braided it. Next time I won’t do that bc it made it very snug to get braided loom around it. I feel good about it though definitely wrapped and overkilled if anything. 10mm ratchet wrench was easiest for me to get the alternator nut off. It was a bitch getting the nut back on with the heavy duty lugs I used. Tomorrow I’m gonna finish cleaning up my fuse box and braid all my amp and led wires to make it look a little nicer

 

Currently looking for the engine to chassis factory ground... anybody?

 

Could anybody show me where they grounded the engine block to battery - or chassis ground?

 

Okay so I’ve gotta say maybe I’m an Audiophile but I never really knew it. I just enjoy great sounding music. I’ve seen some say that the big 3 does nothing for sound quality or efficiency of electrical system. I have to disagree after making this upgrade to my 2/0 ofc welding cables ran in 3 different ground points(one on each side of the block to the firewall and one from block to same as battery to chassis ground point)and alt+ to battery + I’m waiting on my inline ANG from Bussmann and ANL from spartan now to fully be complete but I’ve actually had to reset the gains on my powered sub bc it sounds so much more powerful after doing this and the music itself just sounds like they’ve gotten fuller through my speakers coming from my tiny 180w max output power pack. My led lights seem to me a shade brighter too. Maybe I’m hallucinating or just seeing what I want to believe but I think not. I recommend this upgrade if you’ve got the time and extra cash. I went all in and Tessa taped and braided my cables with red black Alex tech braid loom and Im really liking it! Though it’s not a huge difference maker it’s just enough for me to take my music just a little bit better sounding than before

 

Pics for those needing to see how I did it

 

Run a new wire? Leave current?

 

I didn’t mess with any stock wiring just ran 2/0 gauge underneath them. I will admit I thought about cutting it off on the alternator positive bc the 2/0 gauge lug was very hard to fit! It took me an hour to get that done alone. The rest was simple as making the wires and following the oem wiring to alternator then a few good places to ground on top bottom and both sides of the block. I added a few more grounds than most probably lol. Was the first time I’d ever done this too though so my insecurities caused me to be extremely cautious knowing how dangerous electrical wiring and components can be to a vehicle. Take your time don’t get in a hurry and cover up your battery ground post to insure you don’t accidentally contact it with anything metal