3RZ-FE 2.7L valve adjustment

My truck has 210 K miles. Seems to idle a little rough when cold but I was thinking it could be cheap gas with additives. Maybe time for a valve job?

 

Recommended I believe to confirm/adjust about every 60,000 miles.

2.7L is know for developing tight exhaust vavles, so yeah, if you know they have never been adjusted, it's way past due.

See page 720 (manual page EM-4)

 

"Recommended I believe to confirm/adjust about every 60,000 miles.

2.7L is know for developing tight exhaust vavles, so yeah, if you know they have never been adjusted, it's way past due."


Thanks for the tip mate.

 

Did the service manual download okay, or did you already have a copy?

 

any coolant loss at all?

 

I just downloaded it and we might use it tomorrow. Thanks a million! We got it all apart and are waiting for it to fully cool down in the morning. Engine looks clean. No slug. Do you know if we can measure the shims with a veneer caliber and not use a micrometer? Which is basically thousands vs ten thousands???

 

No coolant is full, haven't added any for a long time.

 

You can use verniers. Remember, better a fuzz loose than tight

 

All of the exhaust valves are tight, just like Wsidr1 said. Do you know if there is a tool that pushes the buckets down in order to get shims out a little easier? Kinda is a night with screw driver..... Also. Do you think the the deal will have shims? If not where is a good place to order them?

Thanks again.

 

A dealer can order them. They sell them in 0.05mm increments from 2.50 to 3.30mm . Look under Engine > Camshaft & Valve on a site like www.toyotapartsdeal.com. They list the part number for each size. You might be able to find them elsewhere.

I've read that when the engines were built in the factory the shims were in increments of 0.01mm, so when you measure the original shims they will not fall on 0.05mm increments.

 

I am using an online shim calculator. I know the current valve clearance and I know the current shim thickness but I dont know what to put at the recommended valve clearance because it is a range between .010 to .014 for the exhaust valves. I want to take into consideration I rather have them a hair loose rather than tight and the fact they come in increments like you where saying.

 

I set all my intake at .011 and exhaust at .014-.016 because the shim kit I had would only get me there. Say you have (for conversation sake) .006 clearance(intake) with a .150 shim you would want a shim that measures .148. Again, better loose than tight but it is absolutely unnecessary to strive for exactly .010

 

This is what I got. Im not sure if it right or optimal. Just wondering if it looks right.

 

I don’t do metric but you seem to understand the process .. just reduce the current shim to achieve what you need. Are you enjoying yourself? I was throwing sh*t. Good luck!

 

I forgot to mention you can sometimes shuffle some of the shims around to get to the specs you want, so you will need to get fewer new shims. You may have already known this.

 

OMG you should have seen my tech buddy trying to get the buckets down with a screw driver....

 

Yes my buddy also had some shims from an old job and we put some closer ones in and I immediately noticed more power.

 

Hey what should I torque the exhaust cam to? "I have to take it out because the rear valve is like impossible to get to."

 

A little bigger copy: