3RZ-FE! Replace? Rebuild? Repair?

No I thinks its the egr gets gummed up after a 100k....

without that your engine runs hotter....especially when you push it on the highway...

that and the cooling system ages.......nothing lasts forever...

the denso crimp top single core.....is also on my hit/shit list.....
dinky like the free toner cartridge you get with new printer....

 

I’m glad my 5VZ doesn’t have an EGR. Some say that the EGR on the 4.5 Land Cruiser engine causes the back of the head gasket to degrade due to extra heat passing by cylinders 5 & 6.

 

If you have a prius......2011 or newer....

get rid of it before 175K..........egr.....$6000 worth of egr.....

 

Well you 5vz bitches and the newer 2rz.......

they traded one egr and one cat .....for three cats.....what a deal...

aint that a bitch.....


I'll stick with my egr and ONE cat.....thankyou.....


thankyou epa.....you guys need a raise.....

we didnt need those 8 cylinder tundra's.....they were evil....


What do you want to bet that 'waste gate' thread is hot/on fire over there....

 

I’m pretty sure my 96 Tacoma has only one cat, not sure tho

 

Yeah I thought the newer 2rz's escaped the egr....

but now there's two cats......


my $120 came from JC Whitney.....so lets call that one a half cat.....

 

There’s a company that makes a kit to repair the aluminum threads with a Timesert. I got it used on eBay with half the inserts used. I got replacement pieces and sold it again on eBay after I was done. The thread repair ended up only costing $100 between shipping and parts.

 

Man oh man, I feel like I'm beating a dead horse.

My two decisions at this point are order a yota1 3rzfe complete motor or just do head gasket/cylinder head, I performed one last compression test with a auto parts rented compression gauge now I'm at a crossroads.

Motor hot , remove all spark plugs and EFI relay, screw in compression gauge, crank motor with foot on the gas until needle stops moving.

My Amazon $25 brand new compression gauge reads:
1. 175
2. 150
3. 175
4. 175

The auto parts store is: ***Edit*** Just hooked up my shop air and dialed it into 100psi, double checked gauge with digital tire gauge, and showed my $25 amazon gauge is waaay closer to accurate readings then the auto parts numbers.

These numbers below probably have no merit, (bad gauge)
1. 160
2. 135
3. 150
4. 155

Put 10mL of motor oil in cylinder #2, went from 150 to 200, other gauge went from 135-180
The factory service manual says it should be 127-178 with 14 psi or less between cylinders.

Should I order the rebuilt motor and be done with it, or roll the dice and replace just the head?

 

Of the 200K miles .....how many are yours...

and when were you oil changes....

and like most was it even using a drop of oil.....

if oil changes were at 5K.....block should be good....

and plugs should look clean....


And how important is the truck.....daily use.....
or extra or hobby truck....


And condition is the tranny in....is that gonna be another black hole.....


Any chance you can get hold of a borescope...

 

When I did my Camry head, I knew the engine was a little tired when I did it, but it was so much cheaper, and it ran really well even when it was bad. I rolled the dice and it worked out great.

Here’s the kit I used to fix the block.

 

Only 10,000 miles are mine, the previous owner produced a log of all the dealerships maintenance since the purchase date, doesn't look like it missed much!

Not sure if it is burning oil.... doesn't seem like it moves on the dipstick, but I haven't been a keen eye on it.

The truck would be 50% of my daily, I own another commuter that would split the mileage. (not what my insurance knows)

I'll pull the plugs tomorrow and take a deep look

The tranny was rebuilt by a reputable shop recently

Yes, I own a borescope

 

I had a 2rz about same miles......so my reman short block was only $800....2 yr wty..

so thats route I went ......I didnt want to go back...


3rz are little more in demand....

Toyota LONG BLOCK 4 pORT Engine Truck Tacoma 3RZ Pickup 4runner 4x4 3RZFE loaded | eBay

 

This guys have the longest warranty I've ever seen.....


Toyota 3RZF-E 2.7L L4 Remanufactured Engine - 8/99-9/04 - Powertrain Products

 

Same here longest I've ever seen on a head....

Toyota 2.7/2.4 L4L Remanufactured Cylinder Head - 8/96-8/00 2/3RZFE - Powertrain Products




Just make damn sure you order the one with the correct number of intake ports...

 

I think i'm probably back to doing the head only idea. Seems that the compression isn't low enough yet?

 

All four cylinders are within the range. Three are at the max. Your problem is specific to cylinder 2, yet it is still within range.

You said you were comfortable pulling the engine, but hesitant to mess with the head, because it has so many pieces, or something.

I want to see you build a bit of confidence about the head. Once I got involved doing my first one, all of a sudden I was wondering why I was afraid before starting. It is all very logical and things get repeated four times for four cylinders.

Actually, I had a lot of fun working to hand grind the valves using a double ended stick with rubber cups on each end. They just need to seat smoothly. The cam shaft lobes push the “buckets” (lifters) down to open the associated valve, one cam is for intake and the other for exhaust, so you watch the lobes turning and know where TDC is.

if you have the FSM, that is really all you need for understanding.

Removing the head is certainly easier than pulling the entire engine, IMO. Think about it. A little study and you will have it done.

just my two bits.

 

I'd stay open minded.....when u pull the head...you'll get a much better handle for whats there...

And once you have the head off.....the block aint that much harder to jerk out...


The more u pull out....the more parts you'll buy reinstalling.....and it really can add up...


The heads are the weak point......IF its been taken care of ....rest should be fine.....

That's a big giant IF.......

 

I think you're right, it's not as spooky as I thought.

 

Sounds like the plan! Thanks, I've priced out quite a bit, with a new assembled head I'm at about $2,000, gasket set, fuel filter, oil pump, water pump, seal packing, exhaust/intake studs, fuel cups, spark plugs and a few tools I don't have.

wish this could figure out who rebuilt this.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/195576571562