3RZFE engine rebuild: How To---

I ordered a timing kit on-line because I found the chains exceed spec stretch and then I found this. Note broken segments. Looks like a catastrophe waiting to happen. Wonder how long it would have been? I also noted wear on all sprockets. The service manual gives specific measurements but I don't have the large calipers needed. I'm replacing now anyway.

 

Getting there. I was putting on the second 90 degree torque when I snapped my Craftsman 1/2" 12 point socket. Always a problem.

 

When you installed the oil scraper rings, did you make sure that the gaps were well off-set from each other, as well as the expander ring, and the compression ring?

Those broken segments are where the reluctor ring for the crankshaft position sensor reads it's signal from.

Were you able to immediately get a replacement socket and finish up the torque? A bad torque line will cause the head to warp in short order, or a gasket to not lock in.

 

A bunch of questions. Yes, you can see from the picture only one gap there. I installed as prescribed in the manual, 90 degrees apart.
I got a new socket but there was a days delay. The break occurred half way through the second 90 deg. turn. Hopefully it will be ok.
I wonder why the segments on the sprocket broke.

 

Hopefully there won't be an issue with the torque then. I'm not trying to freak you out, but it does happen. Not sure why the segments broke. Never seen that before.

 

It's done! Runs great, smooth, and quiet. 40 miles so far.

 

That is awesome! I hope I was able to help at least a little.

 

Bill, you held my hand during the rough spots. Just knowing I could ask made a difference. Thanks again.
Over 100 miles and no issues. I still get a silly smile each time it starts. Like what is it going to do? I'll get over it.

 

Glad to hear it is going well. I always suggest after a major build, to change the oil at 500 miles.

 

Done. I used Joe Gibbs racing break-in oil (recommended by the machine shop that builds racing engines. It was actually about 700 miles, after a shakedown trip to make sure all is fine. Now I leave for Arizona to work for 6 months.
The shop did detect a small crack in the exhaust manifold and I hear a small hiss on acceleration so I guess that's next.

 

I notice on-line ads for the Pacesetter header. Any opinions on these if I have to replace the manifold anyway?

 

I am considering going with LCE long-tube myself. I like the lower end power I hear it gives.

 

I put the pacesetter on my 3rz about 1.5 years ago and its still holding up fine. Fitment was good but the gaskets that came with it are garbage so if you go this route I'd atleast buy decent gaskets to go with it.

 

Hey Bama Toy I really appreciate the info.. we just rebuilt our yota, brand new everything and your thread helped out .. needed some info on the piston direction .. our yota went down at 450,000 she's a keeper .. thanks again..

 

Personally, I just did my exhaust manifold as the crack was getting bigger over time, and I went with the Dorman OEM replacement. You can get it at Advance Auto, using the online discount codes to knock the price down to $100 or find it on eBay all day for $90-$100 shipped. Seems like a good replacement and no issues as of yet.

 

Glad I could help out!

I do recall seeing factory manifolds for cheap, but I really want to get a little extra out of my engine, and on the 3RZ, a header is the easiest way to gain the most out of it.

 

Good Day All. This is my 1st post so here we go. I have a Surf (Auto) (3rz 2 off them). Just got a bearing knock at 2500 rpm, I dropped the diff and sump and removed 1 main and 1 big end bearing.
And yea found the bearing's are worn, luckily only part of the white metal came off and crank got no marks at all. I keep my services up to date and use fully synthetic oil. My question is why would this happen ? I suspect the oil pump but no light came on or a blocked port. What is your thoughts on this ?

Thank you

 

My 3rz just had failure crankshaft bearing at 325k miles i believe from metal debris from failure balance shaft bearings too.debating should i just buy jdm motor from ebay or have my old one rebuild
This pic when i was installing balance shaft delete from lce


This my balance shaft bearing

 

Hello all!
I I have some concerns about my 1996 Toyota Tacoma. It has some deep engine knocking and the previous owner had told me that it might have been a rod bearing or crankshaft issue. I'm thinking of disassembling the engine which is a 3rzfe, but I don't know where to begin. I've read the post a thoroughly, but unfortunately Eliza terminology is beyond my understanding. I am just now starting out and I really want to do this as a project truck. Yes many people told me that I should scrap it, get rid of head, take it to a professional, but I just can't seem to afford any of these options nor do I want to get rid of it. First off I noticed that many of the tools required are socket wrenches and the sockets. I would also like to invest in an engine stand which would be about $50. My question is how would I pull the engine out? Also, how much for all the tools and parts cost if it is a rod bearing or the crankshaft? Thank you for all the photos and for the detailed posts!