3RZFE engine rebuild: How To---

Artyart · Apr 1, 2019

Lol autocorect changed so. E words but hopefully you guys can understand the post

jruiz555 · Apr 13, 2019

better off swapping in a jdm motor, that seems like a lot of work. I swap my 03 2.4 head, and even that was a ton of labor. my 4runner got a jdm 55k miles motor swap in and runs great

Sr5wizard · Dec 6, 2020

BamaToy1997[OP] said: ↑

Going into this job I already knew that I had an issue with the #1 rod bearing. At this point I didn't know how severe, but I had a pretty good idea. Prior to this dis-assembly I had already taken the old crankshaft out of my old engine and took it to Precision Automotive in Birmingham, Alabama to have it machined and prepped for installation. The people there, were very knowledgeable in machine work, and their shop looked quite busy. They were the ones who initially mentioned that they would measure the journals and inspect the crankshaft first to determine if they could save me some money by a simple polishing. A couple of days later they let me know that the crankshaft was in great condition and simply needed polishing. This saved me $50 in machine work. I think that speaks highly of their professionalism and integrity.

After I disassembled the engine and removed the crankshaft, this is what I found for #1 cylinder:

Wide view:

View of a good rod journal:

View of #1 rod journal, and what is left of the bearing:

View of the rod itself, with the bearing removed: (note this should be smooth and not discolored)

So What was the next step? I took one of the good connecting rods from the old engine and swapped it to the new engine's piston. The old wrist pin pretty much just slipped out of the old piston and rod after I removed the retainers. The new piston had to have the wrist pin pressed out after removing the retainers.

(Note photos are of old piston, and bad rod. New piston and rod have already been installed)

After swapping out the rods I then cleaned the entire rod/piston assembly and liberally lubricated it with engine oil. I then took a piston ring compressor (available for rent from local parts stores, or can be bought at Harbor Freight for less than $10) and compressed the rings. Then I positioned the assembly carefully into the engine block, being sure to orient the piston correctly. On the 3RZ engine, the "3FE" that is engraved on the top of the piston is placed towards the rear of the engine. This is due to piston face shape, and to prevent valve contact when engine is running. If you look at the photo you will see this mark easily.

Side bar:

This is a piston with the ring compressor installed:

This is the piston installed in a cylinder opening. No, this is not #1 cylinder of course, but I forgot to take pictures of things when I installed the #1 piston. When tapping in the piston use ONLY a rubber or wooden mallet or handle. Do NOT use a metal hammer or any other metal faced tool.

Now that the replacement connecting rod and the piston has been installed properly, I am ready to install the crankshaft. At this point I am still waiting on delivery of the new rod and main bearings, which should arrive on the 28th or 29th of May.
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