4.0 codes- vtti related?

130k

if it's starting to look like the chain I'm ready to hand it over to a shop- I've got 99 other projects to complete before winter and todays high is 62...

 

Chain shouldn’t be stretched yet, but depends on oil service life of the truck. You the original owner keep up with routine oil changes yourself every 5k?

shop might not be a bad idea with time/weather, that temp hurts hands!

 

I'm the second owner- only had this truck a few thousand miles, but I got service records- first owner was having changes done every 3-4k at VIP. Likely not synthetic but it doesn't say.
I changed the oil the first time a few k ago, with full synthetic- they used to say it would cause gunk to loosen up and clog things, which is why I was keen to check the solenoid filters... but they were clean, and so was the valve. Wondering now if I can get to the bank 2 valve without much work, the bank1 one came out without removing much, but it is crowded in there.

62 doesn't hurt my hands yet- but with a high of 62 today, in a few weeks we'll be seeing highs of 50's, then 40's... then winter will be here. I still need to get stickers on all three vehicles, do fluidfilm for at least this broken wanker truck (it's never been treated) and get my snowblower ready for winter.... and THEN I can start getting the house heating system ready, shrink wrap the windows, etc etc etc

 

Both banks are pretty easy to do. The screen on driver side was something I skipped after seeing the pass, it the OCV was easy. 2 hours tops for both of them.

I wouldn’t replace just one though

 

so I guess that puts me at a crossroads- replace both valves and hope the problem is solved (a few days to order them in) - since one is already removed most of the work is done...

OR put it back together and hand it to the shop to fix.

 

Pick a number between one and ten?

 

Glad I saw this thread (haven't had time to read it all but skimmed it). I went through the same ordeal just a few months back.

See my writeup below. I too initially had P0016 which folks say points to a stretched timing chain. 100k in my case or 130k in yours doesnt seem like enough mileage to warrant all that work. On page 3 of my thread youll see I posted some good up close pics of the new vs old spool valve. Appeared the old one was just barely sticking open - think the return spring was getting weak. Installed a new OEM part from the dealership after waiting a few days, cleared the codes, and have been running it ever since no issues. Over all very easy to replace
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1gr-fe-bank-1-vvti-issues-p0011-p0012-p0016.770671/

 

I just ordered the parts with overnight shipping from rock auto-
$166 for both sides including the $40 shipping... where when I checked the local places yesterday it would have been 200 for both sides... and it would have gotten here today.

 

^that's for the "BECK/ARNLEY" part. They had cheap $20 ones... I've learned my lesson too many times buying parts I don't recognize the brand name of

 

Lots of these engines with several hundred thousand on them and no issues. I chose to chalk it up to a fluke and only replace the one solenoid. If the other one ever goes bad at least I know what it is and how to get to it. If it were hard to get to or not readily available them maybe replace both

 

Well, the parts came in and I swapped them out.

Reading some other threads I expected it to me more of a job- I only had to remove the air box to get to both of these, and get them out... if I had the parts before I started the whole job wouldn't take an hour including cleanup.

Drove it around the block and the CEL didn't come back on- power is fine, no limp mode or hesitation... but I'll have to do a longer test drive before I can call it fixed.

In the mean time, I've gone and created a problem- dropped a bolt in an unforgiving location, and it might be dangerous to the truck to drive it like this.
I think it deserves its own thread.

 

Yeah, really wasn’t bad.. sometimes people have a hard time physically removing the OCVs and the passenger side screen isn’t easily accessible (ESPECIALLY if you have long tube headers that twist everywhere).

glad you got it worked out!

 

Well we all have different experience levels, tools, luck, and sheer willpower- so it's hard to guess what someone else will have trouble with.
Someone said the intake manifold had to come off to get these, which is a bigger job...

I can say with full confidence, for ME, changing both solenoids was easier than removing/replacing that stupid screen on the passenger side. that was a PITA!

 

Spirited test drive completed- AND VIP let me return the $50 code scanner I bought.
Naturally, two of the ones I already owned (an expensive one and a cheap one) turned up a few days after purchasing yet another one.

All around great news today.

Thanks everyone for your help with this one! this is my first run-in with a VTT system.
Looking forward to seeing if this bumps my fuel economy up, the 15 I've been getting seems low, and it always seemed odd to me I'd get roughly the same mileage hauling my utility trailer as I'd get without a trailer at all.

 

Keep us posted on the gas mileage! Glad you got it worked out.