4.0 V6 Reliability

Make sure the flywheel isn’t cracked

 

272,000 miles on my 2012. Do all regular maint plus added a K&N air filter a while back mainly to cut back on filter costs. Mostly premium gas and always Amsoil 5W30 signature series every 15,000 miles. Blackstone Labs suggested an increase in interval but I stick to 15,000. No issues so far.

 

I have just over 100,000 in my '14 Tacoma and thus far no issues. I change my oil every 15,000 miles with 5W-30 Mobile 1 extended performance high mileage.
This will be my 4th Toyota:

• 1982 Tercel that I put over 350,000 miles on
• 1987 pick-up (22R) that I put around 380,000 miles before I blew a head gasket
• 2000 Tacoma TRD that I put around 300,000 miles before the tranny started acting up and now my 2014 Tacoma... Die hard Toyota fan—love my Tacoma!

 

I was aiming for 500K but after twenty years of ownership, I only hit 313K. The car had Mobil One throughout my ownership. It also was a 3.4 V6. Great little truck, I already miss her. Loving my (new to me 2016) Tacoma TRD Sport though.

 

My 1997 received an annual flush & fill EVERY year (regardless of mileage). Transmission never had issues in 313K miles. Toyota most of my life. Have had Mercedes AMG C43, Porsche 911, 1967 Morris Mini "S" original Mini, Harley, Yamaha, etc...

 

How many miles do you drive in a year?

My amsoil test came back as adequate but needed changed at 1 year/8000~ miles. Lots of short trips and a long cold winter. Just shows how hard on engines small trips can be.

 

WOW! 395K I know Im late to this thread but damn. lol Sure gives me peace of mind and confindence.

 

there is an 06 Tundra 4.0 6MT near here. 200K Miles, looks clean outside and inside. Would be a good truck?

 

Just got my 2011 with 160k miles on it.. runs solid as hell. Going to probably change out plugs and put a K&N filter in some point soon.

first things first.. getting some weathertech mats for it , then performance insurance and durability insurance listed above.. and then cosmetics.

 

147k on mine and runs like new. No issues at all! I have done a lot of scheduled maintenance but no repairs have been needed.

 

Just bought a 2010 DCSB OR 4x4 over the weekend with 149k miles on it. I put in a new Purolator air filter and changed the oil. Shell Rotella "Gas Truck" synthetic 5w-30 and a Toyota filter.

I also used to drive an '05, same configuration. I had it from 2014 to March 2018, got it with about 140k and it was totaled by a red light runner at 181k. No major issues with it.

 

I get from 38K to 40K miles a year...70% highway and 30% gravel roads.

 

This might be an old thread but I just had the misfortune of fixing a water leak on the 4.0l v6. I e been a mechanic for 30 years, worked on Jaguars and BMWs that were better designed then this engine. The water leak was coming from the rear of the engine. Turned out to be the metal water pipe that the heater hose attaches to. They must have consumed wayyyy to much saki or allowed a kindergarten class to design it. I can understand removing the intake plenum is standard on many cars, but the intake manifold has to come off too. This exposes a double pipe assy that runs front to back. A water manifold held by 5 bolts on the front of engine must be removed. It gets worse from here. The rear water manifold has to go too. See the lousy engineers slid the heater pipe under this manifold. The bolts are near impossible to get out. As if this isn't bad enough theres a 10mm bolt that attaches this pipe to the engines flange by the bell housing. Between wiring harnesses and hoses, this bolt was a complete sob to remove.
This was not enough torture from Toyota. Nooooo..... they had more idiocy in store. Those rocket scientists made sure there was not enough room between the two intake mounts on the heads to remove this pipe. I honestly would like to put these engineers under the hood and let THEM remove this lousy pipe. I took my die grinder and cut the brackets holding the two pipes together and finally removed these two pipes. Of course Toyota couldn't be bothered to re engineer the pipe, just left this suck cruel joke continue. Si to hell with Yota's design. I cut the brackets holding the new pipes together. Gee why didnt they think of this!?!? I was able to secure heater pipe to flange by bell housing, and the front bracket that mounts to block. Now with the pipes separated I laid large pipe in mounted rear water water manifold and contorted my hands to get the bolts back in. The second bracket on the new pipe stayed connected so I mounted it to the block in the valley then mounted the front water manifold.
All they had to do was run a pipe over either valve cover or extend rubber hoses to the front of the engine to avoid this nightmare. It appears they want a head removed to get this part out.

 

I have a 2008 Prerunner with 158k and it runs great with no issues (knock on wood).

 

Oh this one runs great too. The steel pipe rusted out in the be d by the weld. The steel bolts are rusting into oblivion as well. Yes this is in north Jersey so salt and brine play a part. All Asian steel is poor even on Subaru and Nissan.

 

With proper maintenance and good driving, the 4.0 should go 200K, easy. Runs hot at higher speeds. 18-1900 RPM, about 60-65 MPH seems like the sweet spot for MPG on the highway. A huge Toyota step forward from the V-6 in my 95 4Runner; the 'ol "4 point slow".

 

I've liked Mobil 1 for a long time. What's the most miles someone had clocked before switching to Mobil 1? I just picked my truck up with 95,000. If it starts to seep, where am I going to see it first?

 

What year? It’s not likely to seep. If you are concerned you can always use mobil1 high mileage or something similar.

 

It's a 2013 w/ 95,000mi. My last truck (2005 Chevy Colorado), developed front and rear seal leaks after 110,000 miles but it was nowhere as good of a truck. I suppose what I'll do is switch over to Mobil 1 regular and then to high mile M1. My understanding is that the high mileage causes the seals to swell, reducing the oil that gets past.