4.0L 1GR 2nd Gen Oil Change Guide

Fellas,

Looking for advice on type/brand of oil for first oil change. Going to try and do DIY. Total novice, though.

1. 2014 DCSB 4WD w/ Automatic V6
2. Current mileage is 4,575
3. I have an oil catch-can installed (ADD-W1)
4. Located in South West desert (very hot in summer. Can get down to 20degF in winter at night. DRY DRY DRY)
5. I drive fairly easy and rarely punch it
6. Typically commute only 5 minutes to work at ~30mph. 2x per week I have to drive over a mountain range at ~20 degree grade. Highway speed limits are 75.. though I usually stick to 60mph while climbing grade.
7. I hope to occasionally go off-roading (no crawling, though)

Seen people say to stick with regular oil. Seen people go synthetic.
My inclination is to just go with standard oil at least until 10,000 miles, but I'm a n00b at this stuff.
Open to comments/advice [either in-thread or via PM]
Thanks!

-st

 

If you change the oil and filter every 5K miles, going with a quality regular 5W-30 is probably just fine. I am OCD and use synthetic because it makes me feel better. You can switch to synthetic anytime. In the long run there might be a slight difference in wear, but I think more important is changing it regularly and on schedule.

 

Picked up half a case of oem filters and crush gaskets from a member who sold his Taco. Started running Mobil full synth for two reasons, 1. It ran well in my 95 Taco, and they sell it in a convenient 5 quart jug. So far so good.

 

Thanks for the replies, TenBeers and YOTA LOVER.
I ended up purchasing a Synthetic (Penzoil Ultra Platinum) @ 5W-30.
Had adventures with both swapping out the oil filter (my filter wrench was useless -- Ended up having to drive a screwdriver through the middle and corkscrewing off) and draining the oil (NIAGARA FALLS).

I'm letting the oil drip-drain overnight. My followup questions are: Should I be looking for anything in the old oil for signs of good/bad? What is this magnet/shavings check I keep hearing about? This is the first oil change on the vehicle (4,575 miles on it). Anything else aside from the tutorial on Page 1 of this thread I should consider for a first oil change? Thanks.

 

Drip-draining overnight is a little extreme, but to each his own.

I don't know if the oil drain plug is magnetic, I don't think it is. The diff drain plugs are, but that is completely different.

As long as you are changing the oil and filter on the 5K schedule, there's not a lot you need to check regarding the oil. Maybe just noticing anything that stands out as different from normal like a burnt smell, things like that.

 

Just smells like oil to me. When it was pouring out it looked black but when looking at a single drop it's amber/transparent. I assume that's how it's supposed to be. Thanks for the feedback.

 

Everything you're describing sounds completely normal.

If you want to moniter your engine and oil closer than this, your best bet would be to start doing oil analysis with every oil change.

Blackstone labs are good, my dad's been using them for years for his oil analysis. They send you a little container for an oil sample, then you fill it and send it back to them. They will send you a complete report on your oil including concentration levels of metals in your oil and how quickly your oil is breaking down. It can give you a pretty accurate look at how fast internal parts are wearing and how your oil is standing up to wear/use.

I don't think it's necessary for a brand new stock vehicle, but if you want to do it there's no harm at all.

 

I would recommend buying a magnetic drain plug. It can help forewarn you of impending issues.

 

After much reading and thought, I decided to change the oil in my '14 V6 4.0 taco at 3k miles just for the heck of it. I've changed oil dozens of times on multiple different vehicles, but having never owned a brand new one I was interested in all of the debate on metal shaveings and the pros and cons of an early oil change. I placed a very strong magnet on my drain plug and ran the engine for 7-10min. I attached a picture of the placement and the strangth of the magnet. I let the engine cool for about 2hrs then changed the oil. No shavings of any kind and the oil wasn't really that dirty. Put in full synthetic Mobil 1. It's all GTG. I do have a little better peace of mind running quality synthetic over the stock oil and filter. Metal shavings is apparently a myth this early in the game. Nothing on the magnet drain plug hookup and I even felt around in the bottom of the drain pan. Ill run the same set up on follow on oil changes and see what comes up.

 

OK, after 8 years of ownership I've decided to start changing my own oil. I can't figure out where the oil pan is as I have an All Pro skid plate blocking my view (I think). So... is the oil pan on the drivers side or passengers side of the truck? I'm sure people have not been removing the skid plate to change my oil, so any tips on accessing the bolt?
Thanks!

 

It's the one closest to the front of your truck. I think it's right in the middle, but it might be a tad closer to one side. Grab a flashlight and scope it out. I was nervous the first time after reading how many people make the mistake of grabbing the transmission bolt, but once you are under there, it makes sense.

 

I did it for the first time on mine this weekend. I just hit about 5k miles since I bought it. Found the same thing. Took some strength to budge it with a wrench! Fill cap was also tight enough so I couldn't budge it by hand! More reason for me to do it myself.

The truck took 5.5 qts dead on. Funny, the 3.0L H6 I had in my Outback would take nearly 7 before reading full!

 

So then, the skid plate is in the way...
Anyone ever change the oil w/o removing the skid plate? Is that doable?

 

Probably need to get a fumoto valve http://www.qwikvalve.com/?utm_sourc...296460497&mc_cid=3d29069a9f&mc_eid=a3507f4fc0 get the one with the nipple - you can attach a hose and drain without dropping the skid plate next time.

 

So if you can't get to it due to the skid plate, I sure hope you had a dang good place changing your oil the last 8 years. My wife's Subaru has a very hard to reach oil filter, several years ago, it was really cold out and I didn't feel like doing it in the garage so I took it to a local place. The next time I changed it myself, it still had the filter I put on it two changes before... I know because I always write the mileage on the filter with a silver sharpie. They didn't even bother changing the filter because it was hard for them to get to. I now change it myself no matter the weather.

 

Thanks. Just purchased the valve with the nipple, the 3' hose and the new lever lock.

I got on my crawler in my work clothes last night in a dark garage and rolled around under the truck. I didn't see the oil pan which is why I asked. My truck has 68k miles on it and most of the oil changes have been at a local Toyota dealership that takes 90 minutes to change the oil. Maybe (hopefully) that's why...
Either way, I've decided to switch to full synthetic and will change it myself once the valve arrives.

I'd still be interested to see what others with an off-road skid plate say about changing the oil with the skid plate in the way. Is the valve the only way around changing the oil w/o removing the skid plate?

 

Anyone know where (besides the dealership) to get that stupid plug for the filter drain area? Mine cracked pretty bad so it doesn't really work as a plug to hold any oil that gets into that little overflow drain area.

 

Most auto parts stores should have an assortment of vacuum plugs in different sizes, you could probably find one that works. If you use the hose trick, you probably don't really need one.

 

Damn, this worked out great!

Thanks for write up

Went with synthetic since the tire dealer changed to that last oil change.

Advance sold me a K & N filter for synthetic
Saved time and $$$

Can't beat that!