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4.0L 1GR 2nd Gen Oil Change Guide

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by chris4x4, Jul 8, 2008.

Page 8 of 57
  1. Jun 23, 2009 at 6:04 AM
    #141
    chris4x4

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    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    Yep! :)...Oh...Wait....NOPE! I dip my finger in the oil cap from the new oil bottle, and use that.
     
    chris4x4, Jun 23, 2009
    #141
  2. Jun 24, 2009 at 6:52 AM
    #142
    hiphopopotamus

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    hiphopopotamus TigerTown to Chucktown, SC

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    So how much oil should I put in? I have a '03 Limited V6... 3.4 I think. Help me out! Thanks! :)
     
    hiphopopotamus, Jun 24, 2009
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  3. Jun 24, 2009 at 7:03 AM
    #143
    98tacoma27

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    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    98tacoma27, Jun 24, 2009
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  4. Jun 24, 2009 at 7:54 AM
    #144
    hiphopopotamus

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    hiphopopotamus TigerTown to Chucktown, SC

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    Awesome! Thanks.
     
    hiphopopotamus, Jun 24, 2009
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  5. Jun 24, 2009 at 11:53 AM
    #145
    Veccster

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    Veccster bass turds

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    I drive mostly rural-city (a lot of back roads and stop signs). I don't put many miles on my truck but I use it everyday. I only drive 4 miles to work and back each day. Vehicle of choice for weekend errands too.
    So what is the time frame for changing the oil?

    It was first changed by the dealer at 4,500 miles on February 20th. It is now June 24th - so 4 months have passed and I am only at 7,500 miles (3K since last change).
     
    Veccster, Jun 24, 2009
    #145
  6. Jun 26, 2009 at 8:05 AM
    #146
    Veccster

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    Veccster bass turds

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    ^

    [​IMG]
     
    Veccster, Jun 26, 2009
    #146
  7. Jul 2, 2009 at 9:13 PM
    #147
    jandrews

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    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Just followed this method today. Worked beautifully. No mess, done in about 20 minutes (would have been 15 if the goddam factory filter hadn't been screwed on by Thor). Nice tip on piping the filter drain to the catch pan.

    Was starting to change drivetrain oils (diffs/t-case) and cut my finger up something good. Ran out of daylight after bandaging my wounds. Looks like the diffs and t-case tomorrow then.
     
    jandrews, Jul 2, 2009
    #147
  8. Jul 3, 2009 at 6:24 PM
    #148
    reg boulette

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    reg boulette Well-Known Member

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    All my previous vehicles had downward hanging filters so I always did this. Today, changed the oil on my 09 to synthetic after 1000 miles. Even though the filter is right side up, I said what the heck and gave it a try. (Big Thanks for the Drain Hole Hose Idea!) Filled the engine first, then put the remaining .2 of a liter into the filter and in one quick motion turned it and spun it on, then snugged up. Lost a couple of drops into the drainage cup, but not much. Have no basis for comparison yet, but I don't think the engine oil pressure light was on for more than a split second when I started it up.

    Would also like to mention that the original Japanese filter supplied with new vehicle seemed much more substantial in construction than the replacement filter got at dealer. (someone else here has posted the parts numbers) On the next oil change, I'm going to cut the two of them apart so see if there are any differences other than external ones I could see.
     
    reg boulette, Jul 3, 2009
    #148
  9. Jul 3, 2009 at 6:49 PM
    #149
    jandrews

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    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    FWIW, I didn't preload the filter and had no rattling, oil pressure light, etc. when starting.

    This was a pure cold change/start too, the truck had sat for 48 hours with no activity before I did the change.

    I noticed this too...the two of them looked different. Will be interested in hearing what you find out.
     
    jandrews, Jul 3, 2009
    #149
  10. Jul 3, 2009 at 7:51 PM
    #150
    Hootbro

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    Hootbro Omnipotent

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    Back in the mid 1990's, I worked at the Saturn engine plant in Spring Hill, TN as a manufacturing maintenance contractor. Way it was explained to me for why new original oil filters were of heavier construction was due to the need of the assembly process.

    A heavy gauge steel filter is needed on the assembly line because a special computer control and monitored pneumatic install tool is used to attached the filter. This tool would count the number of turns and torque applied. If certain parameters did not compute, the line would shut down until the offending install filter was addressed. Post vehicle delivery and consumer changing of the filter does not necessitate the need for a heavier gauge steel filter.

    Also, the filters are installed dry on the base gasket and that is why taking off the OEM filter can be a pain.
     
    Hootbro, Jul 3, 2009
    #150
  11. Jul 4, 2009 at 2:41 AM
    #151
    reg boulette

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    reg boulette Well-Known Member

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    ^Thanks for the explanation - makes complete sense, given the heavy duty construction and extra rivets etc. on the threaded base for the stresses of manufacturing.
     
    reg boulette, Jul 4, 2009
    #151
  12. Jul 4, 2009 at 5:50 PM
    #152
    Hootbro

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    Hootbro Omnipotent

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    No problem. Having done contract worked at both the Saturn plant in Spring Hill TN and the Nissan plant in Smyrna TN on the assembly line equipment, opened my eyes to a lot of the manufacturing process.

    In general, parts slated for first new production will be of the highest quality and engineering as they have to get through long warranty periods. Dealer sold or branded "repair parts" do not have to fit such a stringent requirement and may or may not come from the same supplier that supplied the factory when the vehicle was built new.
     
    Hootbro, Jul 4, 2009
    #152
  13. Jul 6, 2009 at 8:29 PM
    #153
    HBMurphy

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    HBMurphy Ban Pending

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    Kinda funny how the other two cars I have, when I buy an oil filter it has a new copper gasket for the drain plug (regardless of the manufacturer of the filter).
     
    HBMurphy, Jul 6, 2009
    #153
  14. Jul 8, 2009 at 3:46 PM
    #154
    Krazie Sj

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    Krazie Sj Resident Jackass

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    I'm kinda jealous. The OEM filter for my GFs 2001 Grand Cherokee was only $5.89 and is made in the states. My OEM filter with gasket was $12.30 and made in Thailand or somewhere eastern.
     
    Krazie Sj, Jul 8, 2009
    #154
  15. Jul 8, 2009 at 4:04 PM
    #155
    jandrews

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    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Really? I picked up a couple OEM filters for my Taco a couple weeks back and I think they ran me around $6 each....Denso...
     
    jandrews, Jul 8, 2009
    #155
  16. Jul 8, 2009 at 4:15 PM
    #156
    chris4x4

    #156
    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    I think he lives in Canada.......a Spork cost like....$100.00 there.
     
    chris4x4, Jul 8, 2009
    #156
    Yolotaco likes this.
  17. Jul 8, 2009 at 4:52 PM
    #157
    jandrews

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    jandrews Hootin' and Hollerin'

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    Yeah, he does...I've actually known him internet-wise since 2002...

    What is $100 Canadian anyway? Like 4 beaver pelts and half a gallon of syrup?


    (I'll pay for that when he finds this)
     
    jandrews, Jul 8, 2009
    #157
  18. Jul 8, 2009 at 5:06 PM
    #158
    chris4x4

    #158
    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    LMAO!! Yeah...Its something like that...But I didnt think they had syrup. :p
     
    chris4x4, Jul 8, 2009
    #158
  19. Jul 9, 2009 at 2:34 AM
    #159
    reg boulette

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    reg boulette Well-Known Member

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    Not sure what a 'spork' is....?

    OEM filter shouldn't cost more than +- $7 at the dealer, even in Canada.

    $100 Canadian is equal to a stack of beaver pelts to the height of the tip of your musket with butt resting on the floor.
     
    reg boulette, Jul 9, 2009
    #159
  20. Jul 9, 2009 at 5:39 AM
    #160
    chris4x4

    #160
    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    lmao!
     
    chris4x4, Jul 9, 2009
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