4.0L V6 with bad head gasket (repair or replace?)

Customers 4runner, just make sure you RTV alot around where the heads meet timing cover.

 

Is that seal packing just used on the topside of the head gasket? That appears to be the case from SM but wanted to double check.

 

Update. I was able to check the valve clearances last night. I double checked them since I had to make sure I was using the feeler gauge correctly. Next time around I would use a longer set of feeler gauges which are narrower towards the end since it is a pretty tight area checking the valves at cylinder #1.

Anyway, they all appear in spec except for 1 exhaust valve at cylinder #6. It's interesting that they are all on the larger end of the range. I would have thought the clearances would decrease after wear and lapping. Maybe this is a true testament to how these things are built.

I suppose ordering one new lifter as opposed to all 24 is a win. Just need to wait for the micrometer to try and figure what size to order.

 

FSM shows a bead on top and bottom of gasket. Thats what I did. Once heads were torqued down I ran my finger across the excess

 

Correct that the FSM shows only on top, the videos from the Mayo Dude shows that he did a bead top and bottom of the HG. It's what I did too following his example.

Edit:
I guess depending on what year FSM is being referenced will either show top only, or both.

 

Actually I just learned how to read the FSM today. Mine does clearly show two circles (beads) above and below the black line representing the gasket. Maybe I shouldn't be doing this job after all.

 

The only reason they have you do that is because head,block, and timing cover meet there. I did that as well as lots of rtv on timing cover as well as an extra bead at that junction. Its alot easier to wipe excess off than take timing cover back off.

And dont doubt yourself. Its just nuts and bolts.

 

Ok guys... I don't want to get ahead of myself but I feel like I'm passed the biggest unknowns and hurdles especially for doing this job for the first time.

The only things I have left to do are the following:

1. Order a new lifter
2. Check the wire harness that connects the knock sensors to the back of the motor. (Yes, I am one of those who loosened the two bolts holding the water bypass pipe while the heads were still on. I thought this would give me more flexibility when disconnecting the rear joint but in reality it put all the stress on the wiring harness itself. I know I could check the harness with a ohmmeter but maybe it is best to order a new one.)
3. Clean the engine block surface
4. Empty and clean the coolant passages in the block. Not sure if this is needed.
5. Clean the timing cover and valve covers. (Aside from cleaning the mating surfaces I will just spray them down with parts cleaner.
6. Order a new crankshaft seal. (It seems like I should probably replace this since I don't believe this comes with the valve grind kit. Need to check.)
7. Order new exhaust manifold studs and bolts. The bolts are trashed but I guess I could reuse the studs and just clean or chase them and apply some anti-seize on them.

I already have a new Toyota water pump and thermostat. I also ended getting Fel Pro head bolts. Gave up on the Toyota ones.

 

My box of Fel-Pro Head Bolts had one odd bolt that was incorrect, so I got a OEM Head Bolt from my sister dealership down the street from me. They both looked exactly identical side by side. I also remembering seeing Japan circled on the side the Fel-Pro box, I bet they are OEM repackaged and branded

The odd HB..

 

I thought I remembered the passenger side front head bolt, under the cam bearing, being different than the rest.

 

All 16 head bolts of mine, including the one you referenced, are all the same. There are two additional 12 mm bolts in front of the eight head bolts on the driver's side. Maybe you are thinking of those.

 

Hey guys. I do have the Toyota FIPG sealer already but what is the following part that the FSM refers to?

"08833-00070, THREE BOND 1324 or equivalent"

Is this some form of loctite? thanks.

 

Yup loctite.

If its for the timing cover bolts, simply use a small dab of silicone on the specified bolts, some guys use the loctite, some dont. Personally I've never used it on a timing cover.

I believe its for the 12mm on the water pump.

 

I was going through the valve grind gasket kit tonight. The only thing I have used so far are the valve seals. There are some seals and such that I do not recognize.

Is there anyway to find out what specifically is in the kit? I struggle to find detailed information regarding specifics of the contents aside from some generic diagrams.

I attached a few pictures of the parts that are in the kit. I did not include the head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, upper intake manifold gaskets or exhaust manifold gaskets. I tried to identify a few of the gaskets.

Any ideas about where to get more information for the kit and / or the seals listed below?

1) ?
2) Gaskets for coolant pipe union in the back of each head.
3) This is 1 of 2 included oil pump gaskets. Need to figure where each of them go.
4) ?
5) 2 of these. ?
6) 4 of these. ?
7) Gasket for oil pan drain bolt ?
8) ?
9) 2 of these. I think these are for the front and back water outlet pipes.
10) Seal that goes in the front of the driver's side head.
11) ?
12) ?
13) ?
14) Fuel injector seals (lower - 6)
15) Fuel injector seals (upper - 6). All I need is 6 not sure what the extra one is for?
16) Front crankshaft seal (I think)
17) Oil fill cap gasket
18) Exhaust gaskets for connection between upper and lower cats (one for each side)

I also don't see the seals that go through the center bolts that hold the valve covers. I think there are o-rings or seals that are on the top of the valve covers were the center bolts go through.

 

5 and 6 are for the head and not used, can be discarded.

Edit: 16 is the Front Seal

Edit: 4 maybe for the T-Stat Housing

 

Yeah, you are right about 5 and 6.
I'm clueless about the other parts like 1, 8, 9, 11, 12 and 13. I'm not sure what the remaining o-ring from #15 is for since I changed all 6 lower and 6 upper seals for the fuel injectors.

I need to check the front timing cover and oil pump. I don't recall any visible seals there aside from the one that connects the oil pickup tube to the timing cover. I also need to check the valve cover where the oil fill tube is. I'm sure there is a gasket between the oil fill tube and the valve cover itself. Maybe that is where #8 goes.

 

I remember having an extra injector o-ring as well, better having extra instead of being short one. A little dab of WD-40 or similar on each o-ring when installing the rail helps keep from pinching or rolling over.

Ill check my pictures this evening to help figure out the rest.

 

Lets guess!

1: Throttle plate oring I think
3: I think thats for the timing cover oil pump pickup possibly, or the timing cover to block oring. You need to fit and see.
4: Thermostat housing on the water pump
5: I believe this is a spring seat to head, don't replace these unless you lose one
6: Maybe VVTI banjo bolt gaskets? I discard these as well depending.
7: drain plug yup
8: No idea, I think this is the one that goes on the timing cover
9: water pipe yup
11 and 12 drawing blanks
13: is typically a coolant pipe


I HAD NO IDEA THE OIL FILL CAP ORING WAS THAT STUPID ORING.

I've thrown out so many!

 

Thank guys for helping out and trying. I am sure I will figure the rest out. I had some family stuff come up, so I had to go out of town for a few weeks. Two weeks to be specific. I wish I was done with this project already. I should be further along but I have been taking my time along the way.