4.0's inaccurate dipstick

I just changed my oil today. I let it drain for about 45 minutes to 1 hour. Filter replaced. I refilled and followed owners manual instructions. It states to let sit for MORE than 5 minutes after running it to allow oil to drain back to the pan then check level.

5 quarts exact is what I used. That put me a little shy of the top dot on the dip stick.

 

2011 4.0 5.5 qts works in mine.

 

Wow, there is a dipstick.... who knew....

 

I've changed oil in numberous 4.0's they all take 5.5 qts of 5w30 with a wix 1348 filter or equivilant, dont check your oil after your engines hot, oil expands with heat, you just need to start it up for a few seconds after your done your oil change, all that does is puts oil into the filter, so you can get an accurate reading, when your red oil light goes out your good. If your dipstick is reading high try this trick clean oil off stick then spray it with parts cleaner or a penetrating oil and wipe it off good, then check your oil, the oil residue wont stick to the dipstick only the new oil will.

 

I always check oil at the gas station, after filling up. Thought that's what the manual recommended. Didn't think it was accurate reading to check it cold, like the tranny.

 

Yes, a process of trial and error, and error, and error.

This. Anywhere between 3.9 and 5.5 qt is fine for the engine. No need to overthink it. More oil just means a slightly bigger heat sink.

 

You've got it backwards. The manual states to check the oil when it's warm. Wait 5 minutes after engine runs to let the oil drain to the bottom of the engine.

 

I'm not so sure that's fair--------reading the manual.

 

Lol. Those pesky informative manuals.


It also states that 5.5 quarts is a reference only. To warm motor, wait 5, check dip stick.

 

Well there you go again. It really screws up a thread of mis information when you present facts. Now this whole thing is going to go down hill. Oh well, back to reading How much should I lift my truck threads.

 

Did you actually photograph your own manual?

http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM04001U/pdf/sec_4-3.pdf

http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/om/OM04001U/pdf/sec_6-1.pdf

 

Yes. Both pics are from my 2013 manual.

 

Just be thankful our trucks even have dipsticks. My BMW doesn't have one, you have to rely on a sensor. That sucks, knowing how often damn sensors go bad.

 

^Maybe a victim of arcane BMW engine way layout. i.e. if they put in a dipstick, it'll probably be unreadable. The Mini Cooper suffers from this, so much that Cravenspeed makes an "enhanced dipstick" for it that costs $75 : http://www.cravenspeed.com/mini-dipstick/



Does your BMW have a transmission dipstick though?

 

Never do that, (fallow to the letter) For me a 5quart bottle is good enough. This includes a new oil filter always. It is true, my trucks get exchanged just before 100.000
miles.

 

No dipsticks at all. But I figured the reason for this is that the dipsticks that own BMWs never check their fluid levels.

 

^And you think the practical-minded Corolla appliance drivers check their fluid levels?

 

Ok oh sensitive one dont get em in a bunch.

 

OP: in my experience, up to about 1/2" (or 1/2 quart) above the full mark is not a big concern, but beyond that may cause issues. I'm not advising you to overfill, I'm saying don't freak out if it goes a bit above.

If you are towing or racing or other severe service, sure you want to have as much in there as possible without going way over full. But in everyday normal driving it does not have to be exactly at the full mark, only between the add and full marks. Just change the oil and filter regularly, and check the level every fuel fill.

Of course this is assuming you are not burning or leaking oil.

Put on a new filter and add one 5-quart jug (no more), run it and see what the level is. It should be right there in the sweet spot between add and full. Done. No messing with half quarts.

This refers to a factory new or freshly rebuilt engine that hasn't been fired yet and there's no oil in any valleys or other internal hiding places as there would be after draining used oil. Toyota put this in the manual just to cover their asses under all conditions. Although I give Toyota some credit for thoroughness, this information is not really necessary and (obviously) is causing more problems than it's solving.
Edit... LOL I just realized why you asked about the dry motor thing - the OP doesn't have this situation so that is largely irrelevant in this thread. Derp.