4 or 6 cyl 4x4?

Buy 4 cyl 5spd
Mod the shit out of it
Enjoy

 

There's no replacement for displacement!

Get the 6cyl you will grow board of the 4cyl

 

If I was to commute 70 miles one way, I'd get a regular cab 4x4 manual and put no more than 265/75 on it. It's lighter, looks good, get good mpg, and still plenty capable.

 

V6FTMFW...

 

Reg cab is best cab.

 

Here's mine with 33x10.5 st maxx tires.... but if I was gonna be a batchler forever I would def have reg cab!!!

 

I do love the looks of the reg cabs. Too bad they stopped making them with the v6 like they did for a couple years on the first gens, those little trucks haul ass

 

I've got an '11 access cab 4 banger 4x4 5sp, unlifted and 235/85r16s. 19 mpg regardless of how I drive. If I haven't driven Toyota 4 cylinders all my life, I probably would have a 6 cylinder. I'd recommend the 6 cylinder based on the tire size and lift you're after.

 

Lifting with bigger tires? You will probably want the 6. People do it with 4s but they are unreasonably slow.

Hauling is a non issue to me. I have had mine loaded to the max with no issues at highway speed. The issue that I have had is towing things that are not aerodynamically efficient.

If you think you will get cylinder envy get the 6 and don't look back. If you aren't a power whore test the 4. I would get my exact configuration again if I could go back.

 

Don't trade. Sell outright, then buy. They may tell you they are 'giving' you an excellent trade in, but if they do its 90% likely you aren't getting what you are buying for the best possible price. Exception might be if you are already upside down in the '16 because of a previous trade and you don't have the cash to smooth that out. Then you can trade, just will be in a bigger hole on the 'new' vehicle.

Is this a funtional requirement for how you use the truck, or is this a cool factor?

www.fueleconomy.gov is close to accurate for a stock condition vehicle. But you're not shopping for a commuter appliance, you're shopping for a truck. There are lots of econo boxes out there that are comfy and have a low TCO that would serve a long commute like that very well. Remember, gas isn't gonna stay where it is now. It will be back over $4 before you have it paid off.

You may be shopping for the wrong thing then.

A class in personal finance would seem worthwhile. And think things through.

Let's review.

Buy a new truck, with a transmission you don't want, and now struggle with the payments.

Want to trade said truck down years to achieve a lower payment and gain transmission you wanted initially. Not a bad plan, but it is going to cost you.

Want good MPG for 140 mile/day commute (700/mi wk, 2800mi/mo.), yet plan on modding with lift and tires. Hmmmm.

Not being critical. Just trying to prod you to consider more options.

 

I'd say go with the 4.0 and at least drive an auto. My 2010 OR had great power but I never got used to the throttle hang with the manual. It was my 5th manual tranny vehicle and my least favorite manual by far.

 

The rev hang is especially annoying with a supercharger. I've gotten pretty used to it though

 

I can only imagine what the supercharger does to it.

 

I've put about 80,000 kms on my 4cyl 5sp which is completely stock aside from some added weight to some "dynamat" type soundproofing in the cab. I don't keep stuff in the bed unless I have to.

With the stock Dunlop AT tires and a Leer 100XL cap installed - gas mileage about 19.5 mpg with mostly highway driving (120 km/hr about 70 miles/hr

With the stock Dunlop AT tires, removed/sold the cap, bought a soft tonneau and the fuel economy increased to just above 22 mpg with mostly highway driving (120 km/hr about 70 miles/hr)

Installed Cooper Discoverer A/TW and the fuel economy has dropped to just above 21 mpg with mostly highway driving (120 km/hr about 70 miles/hr)

Of course in the winter mpg dropped and in the summer it went up.

I've been tracking my fuel economy with Fuelio app since I bought the truck. Every single fill up is recorded.

Again, I would test drive both a 4 and a 6 before deciding. If I were to do it again, I would seriously look at the 6 but only with the automatic. My brother in law has a 6 with the manual and his mpg's are terrible. That's backed up on the EPA ratings for the 2nd gen 6sp manuals.

 

Drive slower you'll get less speeding tickets and better mpgs. I hit 22 on 35s and armour, i hit 110 on the freeway. With second gens there is no comparison. The new 3.5 seems to be closer mpg wise to the 4cyl

 

For short highways trips I travel the speed limit but when I'm traveling long distance (900kms) cross the interior prairie of Canada then 120 is the only way to go. Takes a lot of time off the trip over 8-9 hours of driving.

 

Leave the factory wheel size on it. The 4cyl will do work just fine, even at 3x the printed capacity limits. Fuel consumption on long distance highway commuting will be WAAAAAAAAAY better than the 6pig.

 

Several others on this forum, myself included, get that kind of mileage with our 4wd 4 bangers. Driving habits are most likely the major factor. If the OP is interested in lifting the truck and putting larger tires on it, the gas mileage will suffer.

 

That 2016 3.5/auto is a dog, isn't it?

 

Big time.

I bought a used set of rims and they came with Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac LT265/75R16E tires on them. The previous owner had them installed on a V6 TRD Offroad. I used them for about 4 months and my mpg dropped to about 16.5 - 18 (that was in winter though). Replaced them with the stock sized LT245/75R tires (Cooper Discoverer as mentioned in my previous post) and my mpg increased to about 21.