4 or 6 inch lift

I'm aware of those kits, hopefully they have the shim angles figured out because i remember a very long thread of people chasing down driveline vibes even with the shims and cb drop kit. for me changing the cb worked.

good luck with what ever you decide to go with

 

thank you. Do you have the link for that thread? What company do you go with for the new cb?

 

Good thing this was not a Friday thread . . . as soon as the OP mentioned 4" lift and drop brackets . . . . . I was expecting a food fight.

 

Not sure what you're referring to about the drop bracket lift. Not criticizing you, just unsure what you're referring to. But you are right that I meant for my comment to be more focused on just the money pit that modifications can become. Hypothetically, let's assume the lift is 4k on a 40k truck. That's 10% what the truck cost new (using very general numbers here). That's a poor financial investment. Most financial advisors would groan at that idea. But, I also understand this is a forum for enthusiasts and oftentimes we operate outside of a common logic. I've been there before with my 63 Chevy. Long story short, I spent about 10K modifying a vehicle that I later sold at a major loss about 2 years later. It was a rough lesson to learn, but I feel it was an important lesson to learn. I was trying to help OP not fall into the same trap I did: throwing good money after bad.

Personally, I think it's great that there are so many different lift options for a Tacoma out there. I'm currently in the thinking process about what kind of lift (if any) I want to add to my truck.

 

This reply you received from 4x4junkie was the one I was referring to where it seems like the point was missed about it being about modifying in general where as he went straight to it being about the drop bracket.

 

The issue is that most off-roaders think of DB lifts in the same category as a Carolina Squat or roller-skate deep dish wheels. Its your truck, decorate it as you please. Just understand that nobody else will view it as a serious truck. No judgment, some people love to hang a Velvet Elvis over their mantle too.

Also understand that once you start cutting crossmembers its very difficult to undo. In the world of imperfect frame=totaled frame (which is very much the case with Tacoma), you are getting into gray areas on the what-ifs of insurance and resale. No matter what "they" say about how reversible it is, its not that easy. I most definitely would not buy a truck if I saw non-factory welds on the frame, and I am not alone on that. This lift is the truck equivalent of a neck tattoo. I would carefully weigh how it will affect your life before getting one.

 

Of course I like your build . . . . mine is very similar. Black 22 OF with a 2" lift (5100s) running 33s -

 

Haha awesome! Nice and simple and gets the job done.

 

You don't need a DB lift to have fun off road. DB lifts aren't for everyone. They really require a lot more than just cutting the CM and installing new suspension bits from the kit. They need a full thought out suspension build, like all good set ups. If you want to take the time to work on the set up, DO IT. I've spent a lot of time on my Douche Bag lift and it works great. Otherwise, save some money and time and keep it below a couple inches and have fun.

 

Ok, so overlander, 95% pavement princess, ATV trails, and overlander.

For overlanding you need to buy a shit ton of gear and load it up high with your RTT. This gives you a ton of weight up high. On top of a drop bracket lift. Which put you way up higher. With minimal articulation. And then you go on an ATV trail. And then you go flop.

Sounds like a very expensive schizophrenic death trap that doesn't know what it wants to be when it grows up, which it never will, because it's upside down at the bottom of a canyon.

Have I got this right?

 

uh-oh . . . . here we go !

 

I went with the stock CB

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/drive-shaft-vibrations-solved-step-by-step.244535/

 

This certainly is something that can come up, but like OP said, there are fixes to reduce or eliminate it (I have the center bearing dropped ¾ inch and pinion shimmed upward 3°). A one-piece driveshaft swap is another option that can work well (which Tom Woods Driveshafts used to sell one, but I suspect it was because they didn't also include pinion angle shims which is why some people still had vibes with it).

We don't modify our trucks as an investment... For one, a modified truck generally has less resale value than a stock truck will (and yes, this is regardless if one removes the crossmember or not... Anyone who looks at a truck with non-stock wheels, offroady shocks & tires, cut/trimmed bumpers who isn't interested in all that stuff will think to themselves "This truck's been beat on, I don't want it").
We modify our trucks to go have fun with them. Plain & simple.

A vehicle is a poor choice for a monetary investment anyway unless it's some special limited edition and you have a couple decades to sit on it... Tacomas may hold their resale exceedingly well, but (barring something like the unprecedented shenanigans that were the covid lockdowns) they still pretty much universally will be worth less in the future than what you paid for them.

Again I don't modify my truck to influence what others think, I modify it so that it is more capable on the trails I go on.
And yes, it is VERY reversible if you SAVE your original crossmember from YOUR truck. It will line up with how it was previously cut, and any competent welder can make it look factory (smoothing down the welds so you wouldn't even see them). But really, does it matter so much? Like I asked earlier, how many people actually uninstall their lifts? I bet its less than 1-2%.

Fully agree.
I went beyond just putting on a DB bracket set... I put Fox shocks on all 4 corners, Icon RXT leaf springs (so shorter blocks), built custom skids, and fine-tuned the travel to use the entirety of the available travel before any CV joint bind can occur.
So many people here are afraid to do this though because there's so much rampant misinformation that goes around... People who are not real familiar with suspensions or understand all the ins & outs of it, its hard for them to know one way or the other, so they just avoid it altogether.
It's a bit of a shame too because some of these people (like the fellow I mentioned running into on GM trail last year) are out there struggling with short lifts when setups that are much better suited for this type of use are out there.

But yeah, it works for me, and that is really all that matters.

I'm only here partly for the comedic value, but also to get some factual information out here where others can see it and take it in, and then decide for themselves what they want to do with their truck.

 

Ah, gotcha. Damn internet again. Causes so much to be lost in translation.

 

I feel like we're saying the same thing with different words. Where's a damn campfire when you need one?

 

Nice Flex

 

Have you measured that ground clearance at the diff? 10.5-11” seems high for only running a 32ish” tire

 

It says 6-8 hours to install....don't believe that one bit.

 

Does seem a bit high. I have 12" of clearance at the rear diff and im on 37's

 

How much difference in clearance is there between the 8" diff and 8.75"? Could that be the difference?
With 285/75R17s (~30%-worn) I have maybe a tiny bit over 10" under my 8.75".