4000 rpms at 70mph?

Waiting for updates

 

Update , 2 and a half turns per one wheel rotation give or take.

 

Try again.

Use this method. http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/gear-ratio.html

 

Well it was closer to 2 3/4 for my one tire spin, should I have done 2 as it says for non posi? I have the factory e locker and it was not on, I can try again but will have to wait tommorow as I used a friend's jack, thanks for quick response tho - EDIT- does 2 3/4 not sound right at all? If I did two rotations it would be 5 1/2

 

I'm not in low gear , but my 4x4 does not work at all , is it possible it could be stuck in low gear even tho the shifter is in high?

 

Yes, an elocker is not a posi.

While this process of course is a bit of a guesstimate (as opposed to opening things up and counting teeth), it's close enough for what you are trying to accomplish.

The resulting number you have is pretty close to what Indy's calculations show below, at least enough to pretty well prove you've been wildly regeared.

Add that to the fact that you've got a non working front diff (or at least the controls are out?) hopefully you got a screaming bargain on this thing.

I can't even imagine what kind of MPG you're getting on the road. Or should I say aren't getting.

 

Thanks a bunch yeh I got it for a decent price I felt for being in north bay , so getting bigger tires would not do much for me eh, best bet would be to just regear?

 

You can play with the tire calculator and see what taller tires would do for you. Just remember they have to fit the truck. If you get all wound up in suspension changes to support it, you'll wind up spending more than the regear.

What you need to determine at this point is if the front was also regeared. It should have been so things worked together off road.

That said, it's possible you could find a local that would want your gearset and swap with you. Their gears and them funding the labor could make a good deal for you, assuming you want to back off to stock gearing. Just a thought.

 

Any perks to having this gearing? My main goal when posting was just to lower my rpms for highway driving

 

Helps you tow really heavy shit, and makes your wallet lighter due to gas mileage

 

It's drag racing gearing w/o the grunt to go with it. IE you make the engine work hard quicker.

It's great for crawling over and through stuff, as you don't have to have high revs to move the vehicle.

It stinks on the highway.

It's really an off road item. Especially at the whacked out ratio you seem to have.

 

Ah well I don't do any towing, but yeh that would make sense the guy I purchased from has alot of custom rock crawler stuff , just wish I would have known when I got it (live n learn) at this point I'll most likely just put as big of tires as possible on it and just keep gearing the same , the only crawling I do is the the cow mountain rifle range lol, maybe I'll have to branch out.

 

5.71s are not good for towing. They are weak gears, physically, so heavy stress like towing will likely damage the teeth. But super low gears make off roading much nicer. A better approach though is to spread the gearing change out. A bit steeper in the diffs to make up for tire size and then lower in the t case so you have the grunt when you need it and still have normal rpm when you dont. But just doing the diffs and dealing with it is the norm. Cheaper and easier, so more common.

Id guess would be the front diff wasn't regeared. It wouldn't be the first time someone geared the back and pulled the front dshaft until they could gear the front.

31/32 is likely the tallest tire you'll be able to fit with factory suspension. Odds are you can find someone to swap 3rd with, get closer to reasonable.