4Lo Switch - FJ Box Swap

From the FSM to help check out the actuator.

 

Checked it out and @bravinci has a manual and did the swap. He put the shifter in the boot with the gear select. Interesting. Brav- any thoughts on this?

 

we are manual 2nd gens. 3rd gen is different

@6 gearT444E

you didn’t have his username typed right. I’m sure Ant will chime in, he’s our electronic guru.
(Actual degree in electric engineering too!)

 

While we're on the subject, what all is needed for the FJ box swap? Obviously the automatic transmission FJ t case but what else? What about the links to the shifter? What about the shifter? I'm just kinda new to this and not sure what all goes with something like this

 

Hello everyone, first of all big thanks to @BigWhiteTRD for helping me and other forum members out with 4x4 electronics issues. You the man.
I did the swap on my TRD OR Auto, I used @tacotacochaquito post, which is actually a Manual trans truck. (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fj-case-in-a-3rd-gen-tacoma.571689/) which also references @SuthrnTaco07 post. (https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fj-cruiser-t-case-install-in-2007-tacoma-6-speed-manual.182470/) I ended up doing the transfer case swap, and the ADD Delete.

I would say that fitting the transfer case, shafts, and ADD delete was honestly just a matter of following instructions carefully, everything lines up surprisingly well, and once you have all the parts and have read the process a couple of times there is no reason I can think of why you would get stuck. What I did struggle with was calculating where to cut my cabin's sheet metal in order to allow the transfer case shift lever to protrude from the floor, once having done that, figuring out how to make room for the manual shift lever to shift freely while not affecting the Auto Trans gear selector was a PITA, and sealing the opening I made for the Shift lever was also tricky. ( It took several tries in order for air and dust not to come into the cabin.) Luckily you won't have these issues since you have a Manual trans.

In terms of electronics, I ran my truck in Christmas tree mode for about 30K miles. Had the green 4x4 symbol light up on the dash, and several constant error messages in the small center info screen. I worked with @BigWhiteTRD and he was able to leave my truck in 100% working condition. I can use CC, MTS, and Rear Locker.

I did the transfer swap and ADD Delete in June of 2019, with 60K miles and 33" KM2's. At 63K miles, I installed 35" Yokohoma Geolander Muds. I currently have 102K+ miles and have had 0 issues whatsoever. I was very careful to follow all recommendations regarding opening up a transfer case, and front diff. Make sure to buy the best sealing products, oils, and seals. Leave everything clean and if you have any doubts refer to Tacomaworld. I have yet to find better information on our trucks on another site. BTW, I was able to get an FJ cruiser Transfer case with shift lever for $150 local pickup from a junkyard in Roseville, CA. had 103K on it, had it checked by a transfer case professional and said everything was spick and span. I found it off of ebay.

 

I was following tacotacochaquito's post too and that was going to be my primary instructions but how hard was the ADD delete? I saw the thread about making the hubs manually locking and that seems like it's too much so what did you do? I have 58k miles right now and want this to last over 200k so instead of messing with the front diff, I was just going to get a wiring harness switch into the cab and still use it.. but in all reality, I would prefer to not have any electronics.
Awesome to hear from someone who's had experience with how it runs though. What were your parts list? I was going to try to do this in a weekend at my buddy's shop (he's very strong mechanically and fabricating his own stuff) but I still use this as a daily so I'm trying to get everything I might need before I drive to his place.

And what did you do with the 4wd selector switch in the cab? It basically becomes a dead switch so did you wire that go something else, plug it, or just leave it be?

@camojared

 

ADD delete was much easier than the transfer swap. It is more disassembling of the truck, but much more straightforward. The parts list was more expensive if I remember correctly. Tbh I didn't keep a permanent record of the process. And most of the pics and info on the project were lost about 3 phones ago. I was able to find a picture of the ADD parts list from Toyota.

In regards to daily driving a live front diff with 35's.... Its whatever. I actually ran the transfer case swap without the ADD Delete for a while until I had the money for the ADD Delete parts. I noticed a big change once I installed 35's. Once I Deleted the ADD I felt a slight change in driving feel. Steering is a tad bit heavier when turning at high speeds, and when at full throttle I do feel a little less pep, noticeable, but nothing that bothers me. I did the OVtune way back in 2018 and have been whipping the truck like a mad man daily since, and mentally documenting the differences in tunes and physical setups. I concluded that with the OVtune, and ADD delete in my truck... It sort of grips harder on turns, reducing front-end roll, keeping the truck right where you point it. and even though I can confirm you increase the amount of HP your drivetrain sucks up from your engine, I still feel quicker in my Taco with 35's, 4.88, and ADD delete. Than I did in my taco with no Ovtune, no gears, and 33's.

I was sort of in your situation when debating whether to do the ADD delete or modify how the ADD works. At first I was appalled by the idea that my Tacoma was going to be eating away at its front end daily, then I did some research and found out that some stock 4x4's come with live front ends. I debated what I was willing to deal with... A finicky system that could leave me without 4x4 or forever engaged on the trail on a bad day, and on a good day make me pray to the Toyota Gods that the 4x4 and 4Lo will engage without having to scoot forward and backward and move the dial back and forth. Orrr smooth, instant engagement and disengagement of the 4x4 and 4Lo systems every single day, until A: I rack up insane miles without problems to justify routine maintenance of parts that are still good, or B: have a failure ONCE on the trail, get out however I can, know how to fix the problem back home, and hit reset on the timer of wear and tear.

 

BTW, you should consider separating the installations. Do the transfer case swap first, you can figure out any pending issues during the week while you daily it, and once you are finished schedule the ADD delete. Im sure you could get it done in one weekend, but it will be a long tiring one, and you don't want to rush yourself with your baby taco.

 

When you say you had to build up enough to buy the parts, did you opt for the pieced-together that someone on here did? Or did you buy the $930 kit that a shop fabbed up? It sounds like I should just put a switch in and not worry about the full delete but that still leaves the question about the original 4wd selector switch and how to 1.) Make it functional or 2.) Plug it to look stock.

I think I'll take your advice on just doing the t case swap in one weekend and take it slow, I think that's a good idea. I have 33s, OVtune, and sway bar delete and I still feel stock besides some shift points so I'm not too worried about feeling heavy on turns or on pavement.

I'm a mechanical guy so that's crazy to me that you feel like the ADD delete is easier. My guess is I'll just take the easy route and just get a switch to turn on the actuator for the driveshaft

 

I used the parts list I posted a picture of and installed it in replacement of the stock ADD. I have no idea what the $930 kit is. Sounds expensive.

 

If anyone can find or has any sources for an FJ transfer case WITH a shift lever, please let me know. Very tough to find these with the shifter

 

Well, the only thing within a 100 mile radius of me for local pickup is a 140k transfer case for $450. Is it really that worth it to swap out my current electric transfer case system with 60k miles to the 140k manual system?

 

@6 gearT444E

 

yes, the transfer case will last a very long time and 140k is nothing for them. Especially considering most of the transfer cases are in trucks used by soccer moms where the 4wd isn’t even used. I’m not sure on all the electronics and how they work on the 3rd gen so I can’t help in that department. Never had an interest in the 3rd gens and they have even more CAN bus operated than we do, so for that reason I’m steering clear of any newer vehicles than I have now haha

 

Just head over to a pick n pull with a 10, 12, and 14mm sockets and you can have one in about an hour.

 

No pick n pull within 100 mile radius has an fj on the lot either.. I'd rather get one that is close in mileage so I won't have to do any replacing in, say, 150k miles

 

Crap, that is unfortunate!

 

For anyone that's interested, I made an Instagram to go through mods like the fj swap (as in advantages/ disadvantages/ initial thoughts etc) and to look bad and see what I've done in mods and adventures. I like to get into technical details also so that page will also have that information

IG: Tonya_Tacoma

I'm going to be doing the swap this weekend so that page will have updates and a "Monday Mod Spotlight"