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4low-trac

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Isthatahemi, Sep 12, 2009.

  1. Dec 7, 2013 at 8:13 PM
    #561
    mistaare

    mistaare Well-Known Member

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    What is the secret to just pulling the second wire out with out cutting it?
     
  2. Dec 8, 2013 at 4:06 AM
    #562
    morseguy

    morseguy Active Member

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    The purpose of pulling it out is so that you can return the harness to "factory original" condition again by re-inserting that pin.
    That way if you have to go to the dealer for warranty work, it won't look tampered with.

    If you meant how to actually remove the pin from the connector, I means taking some kind of a small pointed object to depress the barb that keeps the pin in it's place in the connector. I've done this on other electronics, not yet on my Taco yet.

    MY QUESTION IS, after the mod and in 4lo, can I turn off the traction control with "swerve switch", should I need to rock the vehicle back and forth?
    It was probably covered in earlier posts, but I'm too lazy to go back and look through all of them.
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2013
  3. Dec 8, 2013 at 5:59 AM
    #563
    morseguy

    morseguy Active Member

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    Okay, just answered my question.
    I've only had my 011 taco for two weeks now, so when I do the mod, I'll extract the pin from the connector and cover it. It's been a long time since I have had a car with a warranty and don't want any hassle from the dealer!
     
  4. Dec 9, 2013 at 5:11 AM
    #564
    mistaare

    mistaare Well-Known Member

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    Morse - yes, that is what I meant, actually removing from the connector. I have a REALLY tiny screw driver and tried once. I will try again!

    No one has any experience with the YWM and being loaded down in slick conditions?

    Anyone have any experience with this in slick and/or deep snow?
     
  5. Dec 22, 2013 at 1:43 PM
    #565
    morseguy

    morseguy Active Member

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    Well I performed the YWM today.
    I disconnected the neg. term. on the battery.
    I did not want to cut any wires! I've only had my 2011 Access Cab, v6, 6 speed, reg 4wd, sr5 for 4 weeks now.

    The hardest part was extracting that pin for the connector. I got it done after about 20 minutes.
    I then put heatshrink tubing over the end of that wire, folded it back, hid it inside the harness with the rest of the wires and wrapped elec. tape around it just like the factory used. A toyota tec. would have to be looking real hard to notice the mod. If I am ever questioned, I'll just say, "I bought the truck used from you guys, I don't know what your talking about."
    Anyway it worked out just fine. Upon restarting the motor it rand for 2 seconds and then died. I was already aware of this doing the foglight mod.
    I played with all of the 4wd and trac. modes and it all worked just as posted. I could not really test it because all off the snow from our two storms has melted. What I really like is the fact that I can still turn off the traction control with the trac switch in 4lo and go back to the factory default.
     
  6. Dec 23, 2013 at 5:06 AM
    #566
    malbanese

    malbanese Active Member

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    I did the same on a 2013. I didn't disconnect the battery, just the yellow wire connector. Plugged it back in and started fine, no stall no check eng light.
    Did some wheeling at Big Bend but didn't encounter anything aggressive enough to kick in 4lo.
     
  7. Dec 23, 2013 at 3:05 PM
    #567
    morseguy

    morseguy Active Member

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    I still don't understand why Toyota ships the trucks from the factory this way.
    Do you think it is really to upsell on the OR package. Seems odd since most salepeople and the average buyer don't really know much about the different drive options.
     
  8. Dec 28, 2013 at 12:10 AM
    #568
    Chepo

    Chepo Tankoma!

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    So, tomorrow i might be going for a snow/mud trip... Im gonna do this mod in the morning!!! Don't know why i didn't hear about it before!!!
     
  9. Dec 29, 2013 at 12:36 PM
    #569
    southernTRD

    southernTRD Well-Known Member

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    Is this all the same for the 2014s ?
     
  10. Dec 29, 2013 at 7:11 PM
    #570
    neverstuck

    neverstuck Well-Known Member

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    Don't see why not. I just did it to my 2013 DCLB Sport and it worked fine. Haven't tried it out yet but I cut the wire, taped the ends, and plugged the harness back in. It switched into 4low no problem. Light flashing, but no buzzer.
     
  11. Dec 30, 2013 at 7:20 AM
    #571
    deeezy

    deeezy Well-Known Member

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    Same here. I didn't un-hook the battery. Just like this guy^, removed glove box, un-hooked harness, cut factory black elec tape, cut the wire, folded the cut ends over, taped both ends, and elec taped it back where I had cut the original tape off. I'm still waiting to test this out.

    I got no weird lights and the truck goes into 4-wd jjst like before. I'm curious as to how this will react in sand.
     
  12. Dec 30, 2013 at 10:27 AM
    #572
    southernTRD

    southernTRD Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, it worked fine on my 14. I just cut it and capped the ends for now but I may go back and install a momentary switch so I can bump it and stop the flashing. I run my 4 low for long periods at a time when just easing around the woods and the flash may get irritating at night. Im glad all went well because I was a little nervous cutting wires on a 3 week old truck .
     
  13. Dec 30, 2013 at 9:14 PM
    #573
    deeezy

    deeezy Well-Known Member

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    I think everyone gets nervous cutting wires in their new truck.
     
  14. Jan 3, 2014 at 5:46 PM
    #574
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    You do know that if you reground that yellow wire after shifting to 4lo the flashing 4lo light will go solid and you will still have 4lo Trac?

    I got super serious and put a real A-Trac switch next to my lighter where it is supposed to be and made a small relay to connect the yellow wire back to its ground. I even illuminated the A-Trac switch as it is supposed to be...with full dimming. I know, I know I am sick.

    When I switch to 4lo the 4lo light flashes like on yours. When I then press the A-Trac switch it regrounds the yellow wire and makes the 4lo light go solid but maintains full 4lo Trac capabilities. The flashing light always bothered me for some reason.

    You can use your imagination and do this with about any switch. It just looks really factory on mine and the fit of the OEM switch is perfect.
     
    Jazz1one likes this.
  15. Jan 7, 2014 at 7:16 PM
    #575
    07terry

    07terry Active Member

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    I have been trying to get my diff lock to work, ive taken it out its clean as a pin and i am able to manually put in and out of lock please help how and where can i check for voltage .or relay , i am a wounded warrior and it may take me a while to try or get back to ya but thx in advance and ive tried in 4 lo forward and reverse weaving left and right the only time the light didnt flash is whem i manually put it in lock and put the actuator back in and it showed lock but still wont unlock...
     
  16. Jan 23, 2014 at 3:32 PM
    #576
    33yrsoftoys

    33yrsoftoys Well-Known Member

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    Any chance you took pics? I like your idea and would like to do the same thing. Thanks in advance.
     
  17. Jan 23, 2014 at 5:24 PM
    #577
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    33yrsoftoys, I'm real bad about pics....either the camera is always MIA or the battery is dead if I do find the camera :(.

    Edit for Error in Parts Manual:

    The OEM location for the A-Trac switch is supposed to be next to the cigarette lighter. This is where I put mine. It is a different size blank than most all the others in the truck. The switch for this location is part number 84988-04060. It has an amber LED for back-lighting.

    IDK, if you locate it in one of the other blanks, like left of the steering wheel, the FJ Cruiser switch might work as it is a bit larger but its back light is also a bit different color. It is part number 84988-35060.

    I used a relay in conjunction with the switch but thinking in retrospect a relay would probably not be needed as the yellow wire is just a ground connect that completes the signal.

    The OEM A-Trac switch is actually the male side so I directly soldered wires to the terminals and then filled the cavity with silicone. However, there is a female connector that could be used to connect it and if you like I will dig up its part number the correct terminals for its use.

    You could wire the LED terminals on the switch to the HVAC wires and get the correct dimming and light exactly like all the other dash lights. I came directly off the rheostat but this is not necessary. The HVAC wires are a lot easier.
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2014
  18. Jan 23, 2014 at 6:45 PM
    #578
    33yrsoftoys

    33yrsoftoys Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Taco'09, I'm getting it. One question left, after you cut the yellow wire which end did you ground to the switch, the one going into the harness or the loose one running away from the harness?
     
  19. Jan 23, 2014 at 7:04 PM
    #579
    33yrsoftoys

    33yrsoftoys Well-Known Member

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    Honestly, just to stop the blinking dashlight. It's like the seatbelt light, it buggs the hell out of me.
     
  20. Jan 23, 2014 at 8:54 PM
    #580
    Taco'09

    Taco'09 Well-Known Member

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    ^^ It bugged me too. I guess its an individual thing, like the TPMS light.

    To answer your question, I cut the yellow wire back about 1' from where it enters the junction then soldered a long piece from one part of the yellow wire to the switch (I actually used the switch and a relay but the switch will work).

    Another long piece was soldered to the remaining piece of the yellow wire and it too was run to the switch. You are forming a loop from one end of the yellow wire to the other but through the switch. When the switch is off, the ground is broken and the 4lo light blinks. Tap the switch to on and the ground is reconnected thus making the 4lo light solid, but 4lo Trac is actually working. Repeat as necessary.

    How do you know it is working? The squiggly car icon on the instrument cluster will go off and the traction control will kick in once the wheels start slipping -- approxmately 2,000-2,500 rpm is the sweet spot.
     
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