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4wd actuator hell

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by Josharveyy, Apr 15, 2024.

  1. Apr 17, 2024 at 6:36 PM
    #21
    Toy_Runner

    Toy_Runner Well-Known Member

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    3" OME lift, heavy coils f/r 3/16" steel skids Modified Coastal Offroad diy bumper 5spd swap ('98 donor)
    Why go with an arb rear locker if you have the factoey electronic one? Are you swapping the whole axle for a 9" or something? Or is an arb locker center section just that much stronger than the oem?
     
  2. Apr 17, 2024 at 8:13 PM
    #22
    Toycoma2021

    Toycoma2021 Well-Known Member

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    Northern California, Temporarily
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    2021 Access Cab, LB, AT, V6, Off Road
    My decision is not based upon strength.
    The factory locker is slow to engage compared to my other vehicle with front & rear ARBs. Imagine yourself on an obstacle that you didn't anticipate, or have taken many times without lockers, but somehow got yourself "stuck" this time and teetering on rolling. I have found the factory E-locker to be very slow in the distance traveled to engage and often requiring a turn (differential action) to engage. In my testing thus far, if I cannot turn the rear end in a small amount of travel it will not engage. My ARBs engage very quickly with little movement, I hope it will be the same with the Tacoma. Plus, why deal with different characteristics at each end.

    As I outfit the vehicle and actually take it on some trails, I reserved the right to change my opinion.
     
    Toy_Runner[QUOTED] likes this.
  3. Jun 25, 2024 at 3:54 PM
    #23
    Josharveyy

    Josharveyy [OP] Member

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    First Name:
    Joshua
    Vehicle:
    2020 Black SR5
    Grill swap with raptor lights K&N intake Lift + 33' KO2s White painted emblem overlays
    So after much work. I fixed it and it broke 5 minutes later.

    I now have an old add actuator and I’m looking at this this thinking honestly, I could drill a hole in the plastic housing and just have a longer pin sticking out of it that is attached to pre existing gears in said actuator. I could then just attach a knob to that pin sticking out the housing and figure out some tensioning mechanism for the knob. Wouldn’t be too worried about sealing it up water tight either cuz it’s already sealed off from the side with the fork that attaches to the diff.

    Could leave everything in tact, plugged in etc. in accordance with the order of operation, when I flip my switch into 4 the tcase will do its thing and then the light will blink cuz nothing will happen in the add. Id then just get out and crank it into 4 up front and because I left the gear untouched it will report the correct position, boom light stops blinking. Same thing in reverse.

    stock ish solution?
     

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