4wd broke

issue resolved

 

That's unusual..

 

That is unusual... sounds like the transfer case took a dive in one way or another..

 

I was heading down the mountain in 4H when the jolt occurred. Pulled over and stopped. Checked things out. (???) Got back in and tried to accelerate in 4h to no avail (back tires spinning). Popped it in neutral and tried 4l, also to no avail (back tires spinning). 2wd drive works fine. I was able to drive home in 2H with no change in drivability.

There was some definite grinding when the jolt occurred. Not pleasant.

The truck has been sitting for a while. Could it be an issue with differential fluids or just not being used enough?

The transfer case is what distributes power to the front tires only?

 

Wow, definately not typical. Not sure if there would be anything I woulda done any different. As others have speculated, sounds like the t-case from your description of events. I suppose it is possible its in the front diff. Is it ADD or manual hubs? If its an ADD you should be able to rotate the front driveshaft by hand when the t-case is in 2hi. If it wont turn by hand it indicates a front diff issue.

 

I dunno, need some pics or some more info, sounds like you def. broke something, snapped a front u-joint (but I think you'd see drive shaft hanging down) auto locking hubs I'm assuming . maybe a servo that engages transfer ?? hard to say without more info ...

 

Eerily similar to your situation.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1s...ff-problem-possible-4-88s-bind-right-now.html

 

They are auto locking. I know little about the difference but the card on my visor says basically that its on the fly 4wd high.

When you say the front differential will spin (by hand) when im in 2H, what does that mean? Which component should I be inspecting?

Can I narrow down the problem area?

What pics can I post to help with the dilema? (angles, etc)

Is the transfer case separate from the front differential? I can answer these questions by looking around a bit (which I will be doing) but any feedback is appreciated.

I know very little about the engineering of this truck. I have a feeling that is going to change real soon.

Thanks again!

 

I dunno, you could start by getting underneath & try hand spinning your front drive shaft (that goes from the front of transfercase to front differential) & see if you feel anything unusual, you could drain/check diff fluid, could be electrical even, sometimes when a servo or a solenoid takes a shit , they'll do it half way thru the function thats called for & will stick in a neither here/neither there position, something to consider anyway

 

Update:

I just had my buddy try to drive the car while in 4H and 4L.

-I cannot spin the dront drive shaft by hand

-The truck will go into 4H, but will barely move. When it does the driveshaft does spin but not smoothely. The transfer case is kinda jerky and clunky.

- The truck goes into 4L more easily but essentially does the same thing.

My buddy just mentioned the u joint could be seized up.

Is there anything I can eliminate based on the fact that the driveshaft does move, not by hand but by the motor. I would think that if the u joint was seized i couldnt spin it by hand but it would still spin by the motor.

 

how can i lock the hubs if they are auto locking?

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Do this, if you can't rotate the shaft by hand you def. have a problem, binding in teransfer or front diff....

 

Just pull transfer handle back to engage (assuming you have a mechanical lever,not button )

 

im having the very same problem, I took my truck into toyota they built me and est. for 2500.00 for a brand new front diff assembly and install ( front diff new is 1750.00)
I of course said hell no and am now in the process of have 4wheelparts do a 4.88 front and rear install for a price of 2250.00, which i figured im buying new gears anyways why not buy the ones my truck needs for a cheaper price than a new front end, im also having them replace the spider gears which im buying from a fellow member cause im sure they are toast and the pass side inner and outer axle seals (<-- which by the way is the reason my front end locked up on me cause that seal leaked all the fluid out over a very long period without me noticing) but my issue is because of the fluid leak so I would first pull the plug on your diff check the plug for any metal shavings and also the fluid level. If the fluid level is low and you can smell a distinct burnt spell then its most likely your front diff but also find out why there is no fluid in it. but checking that transfer case is not a bad idea either im doing that tonight.

 

when I get it back from 4wp ill let you know if it fixes the problem, I personally have yet to see in the front diff and I dont think toyota even took mine apart to check it. So 4wp is giving me a heads up on everything when they tear it open on what all went wrong.

 

i noticed you keep calling it a car....maybe thats the problem...the TRUCK resents you for that

 

Thanks BRAAAHH !!

 

Thank you for making me whole again Christian !!!

 

Shit, from all the rant about how good they are I really oughtta try to make this one.. Cajun tots ??? sounds really good ...