4WD ECU Spoofer for FJ Transfer Case Install

This is excellent! I wonder if this can be done through the bootleg Toyota dealer software floating around

 

So I picked up a FJ cruiser transfer case the other day. Looking for updates all around and stumbled onto this. 3 months later from post date is this still a solution?

I also have a 2016 sport manual with an arb rear. It’d be good to get some more details, photos and make it a true procedure. Other wise I’m just going to leave actuator plugged zapped strapped up and out of the way

 

I havnt bothered with it. I really want to not cut the factory harness but I can’t find the correct connector. I can design a circuit to spoof the factory t-case. Ultimately you can buy a used actuator and plug that to it and tie it somewhere.

 

You can absolutely remove the actuator from the stock case and even run it inside the cab or wherever else you may like. The only downside is you still rely on a computer to actuate your front differential. You can drop it in low but if your electric lines are dirty for any reason, your front diff won't work.
I wanted to completely eliminate the ECU so I bought the switch from 12th State Offroad that actuates the front diff from a rocker switch and went the way I did. So far after 4 months from doing the signal shut off, my truck is still in great shape. This thread was made more for BigWhite to try to teach the spoof method so users with the stock locker can still use it.
if you want my advice, i wouldve rather got a crawl box WITH the FJ case. Everything is already out under there and it kinda sucks to do a one to one swap just to eliminate a computer. Might as well add to it, especially since we KNOW it works. Anyways, Here's what the twin sticks looks like


I've put the boot back on since this pic but you get the jist

 

do you have a pic of where the shifters come into the body?

 

I do not but I can say we hardly bent the sticks forward/backward. We just made a couple bends outward to fit on the sides of the shifter but for the most part, they came straight up into that shifter gap almost perfectly.
For instance: to take off the transfer case now, I have to first unbolt the sticks, lift the sticks up out of the shifter gap, then I can unbolt the case. That's why I recommended to go ahead and get a crawl box to not have to redo all the transfer case annoyances

 

As said by @Dkarr13, the spoof work in the OP here was the 'best' way I had found to still allow the 4lo traction control (MTS, ATRAC) to work after the various mods. If you dont have an OR/Pro, or are not trying to keep the original traction control/rear locker actuation, then the wiring method given in the OP isnt really required (and I dont think it would be recommended as the first solution), and there are several alternative options.

BTW, I super appreciate others giving great advice in this thread... frankly I have a hard time remembering the details of this work now...

 

I wanted to share @BLtheP has a ADD/T-case spoof solution that is plug-n-play. Not all of the instructions are up but he indicated that he has it working for a 3rd gen. His thread is here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...transfer-case-actuators.841653/#post-30116283

 

Just to be fully clear - I don’t have a product I sell. I wanted to make something, but I’ve found the logistics just aren’t there for me to pull it off. I end up forced to buy 2Low kits which are expensive and then need all the relays and such. But using a repurposed 2L kit - a pnp solution is definitely possible, which is what I aimed to achieve. It turns into a $3-400 deal by the time I’m done. And is a huge time suck.

If someone really wanted to make me something, I could do so, but it won’t be cheap and it will take me a few weeks at minimum. Appreciate the shoutout though.

 

Is there a thread like this for FJ swapping into 2nd gen? Having a hard time finding electrical info

 

The 2nd gen doesn’t really need any of this. Essentially you splice a few wires together at the ECU that connects the transfer case circuits to the instrument cluster, and then you wire your transfer case wires to the the manual transfer case. No need for a spoofer.

 

Awesome thank you. I’m trying to find the thread showing which wires to splice and what exactly to do at T case wires. Thanks!

 

I have 4 years with this FJ chain-driven case, the case itself is around 170k miles, and everything is still solid. I haven't had to touch anything on my setup. I hope everyone else is having the same luck!

 

Everything works great in mine no issues other than not having the time to finish the wiring work @BLtheP started.