4WDTrout's 2008 DCSB Build

I have no experience with this issue but my first check would be the switch connected to e-brake pedal. I'd just verify that its not sticking and is working properly. Maybe take it out and check with a multimeter that its turning on and off at the appropriate time

 

Thanks Chris, I'll check that out!

 

I now have stainless extended front brake lines that will be installed soon.

 

I replaced the Splash Guards in the wheel wells.

 

Hey man,

I know I quoted an old post but just curious if you solved the problem with your E brake light? I had the same issue a while back but diagnosed it and haven't had to deal with it since

 

Yes, I had it fixed. It turned out that the shop I had put on my rear extended brake lines loosened my drivers side front brake line. They were pretty busy that day and forgot if I wanted my Rear or Front brake lines replaced and figured it out as they halfway took one of my fronts off. They didn't end up tightening it up enough and it had been spitting brake fluid all over thus my brake fluid reservoir kept getting low triggering the light on my dash to come on.

So, make sure your lines are on tight and rule that senario out. Why was your brake light coming on?

 

Yea your situation was a lot more detailed than mine. However, above the E brake pedal is a push switch that engages the E light on the dash. I was working on a wiring project and one component was pressing against the switch making the light illuminate, and beep once I shifted into drive. Got back under the dash and secured everything and problem solved.

 

Got holes drilled in my Relentless Hi-Lift mounts so I could lock it down.

 

6/8/17

I had the transmission fluid flushed with 16 Qts of Toyota WS ATF. It's shifting a lot smoother now. I'm glad I finally got this done.

 

So, now when I drive over any bumps it sounds like all kinds of chirping is coming from the steering column. Like animals live in there lol

I'm wondering if I need to tighten anything down or replace bushings or...
I'll be looking into this. If anyone has any advice, I'm all ears.

 

5/11/2018

I finally replaced the Bilstein 5100’s in the rear. I ended up putting in the OME Shocks that we’re given to me by a local TW Member for a 6pack of beer(thanks Mikey). I painted them black though...yellow didn’t work.

This is a temp fix until I get my hands on some extended length shocks

 

8/29/2018

So, the other day I noticed that the passenger inner cv boot was blown and spitting grease all over the place.



I’ve had the CVJ Axles on for just under 3 years now. The drivers side is still in tact but, I’m wonder for how long. Now I’m faced with making the decision of either ordering 1 or 2 replacement cv axles and possibly having CVJ use a more durable inner boot instead of the extended red silicon boot like last time. I’m also thinking about lowering my front end as well. I just have too much body roll when I back the collars down on the coilovers. I’m under the impression that the 650lb springs are too soft but the 700lb springs are too stiff. Is the answer to this equation...700lb Springs + Steel Bumper = Better Ride?
If so, my reply is...Too Much Money!

 

11/23/2018

Replaced Passenger Side CV Axle



This job turned out to be more of a pita than I thought due to me not remembering to buy a new inner hub seal. That and I was hella tired & grumpy lol

 

4/13/2019

I replaced the leaf spring bushings in the front hanger on both packs in an attempt to eliminate the sound the original ones were making. Pressing out the old bushings wasn’t too tough...just used a larger socket & hammer

 

So, the million dollar question is... did it get rid of the noise!?!?!

 

Nope! It’s louder after I did the work haha

Going insane in the membrane

 

I’m going to check that all everything is torqued to spec and hope that solves the noise. It’s probably an easy(ier) fix if you do this sort of thing frequently....but, since I’m not under the truck enough these days...

 

Do I spy zipties in between a few leafs there to act as the shim replacements?

If those pads are toast, that would be the next best thing to try and replace. And when you do that, I've heard it's a good idea to break the edges on the top/bottom of each of the individual leafs so that they're not digging into the other leafs when moving (basically adding a chamfer or round on the ends).

 

Yeah, those are zip ties intended as preventative maintenance in an attempt to avoid the notorious Dakar squeak. There’s a whole thread on how to prevent/stop the squeak. I’m not sure if it’s helping or hurting at this point lol

The pads the pack came with seem to be in tact. I’m going to have to tinker with it later...just too busy now. I appreciate the suggestions Chris!

Did you get your bus painted yet?