4x4's & Chains

That's a better and clear explaination, thanks DV.

 

The document doesn't specify a reason. It says, "As equipped this vehicle may not be operated with tire chains but may accommodate some other type of tire traction device."

I'll be driving from So Cal to Northern Idaho and since I've never made the trip in winter, I wanted to be prepared. It looks like some of the consensus here points to just having chains on the rear tires, if at all. I've never needed chains up to this point in my life living in So Cal, but going to Idaho could be a completely different story.

 

I agree - forget the scrap of paper, get a pair of chains for the rear, get familiar with installing them before needed - try in your driveway for example - this also confirms proper fitment before you need them. If you need to use them after that, get 'em tight, re-check tightness after a few hundred feet of travel, and you'll have no issues with chains on the rear. In all likelihood you won't need them, but better to be prepared as you say - I commend you for that. I've had the jewelry on the rear of my tacoma half a dozen times this season myself, but that's venturing away from civilization more than you're talking here. I still carry them September to May every year - you never know.

 

I almost died in a car wreck during a huge snow storm while stationed in Victorville. Even the Mohave desert gets snow!

 

Just in case it hasn't been mentioned, don't go to oversized tires if you plan to use chains. This is the reason I stay with the OEM tires; clearance with chains.

 

I could clear chains on the rear with my 275/70/17's no problem

 

I carry a set of vbar chains for the rear and am considering trying a pair of Peerless class S low clearance chains or cables for the front. They obviously wont be as effective as real chains but having a traction aid on the front tires can be the difference between getting out of the mountains and the front tires leading the truck off the road or into a canyon.
http://www.peerlesschain.com/brands/traction/technical-information/limited-clearance-issues/

 

I'm at 4300 ft. I just keep them in the truck until winters over. I haven't needed them for the last two years but winters back this year. Looks like it's the wests turn for winter.

 

Without a 2" lift ?

 

Probably

 

I can run v bar chains on my 33s. No problem.

 

That's worth noting.

 

Those of us that have run chains and know the drill, can tell you - try them out, fit them once in the driveway before you need to do it while wet with frozen fingers. It also avoids finding out you got the wrong size. When I was driving Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho in a full size 4x4 it was a necessity to have four chains and be able to get them on and functioning without too much drama. Carry a couple of pieces of 2x6 to lay in between the cross bars when you lay them out to drive onto the chains. Pull onto the blocks and that will keep the truck from pining them tight to the ground - leaving them loose to pull into place and buckle up. I also learned to add weight to the truck when the rear needed some bite. Wallyworld and many box stores sell water softener salt in 40 lb plastic sacks that are easy to load, handle - and cheap.

 

What brand of chains do you guys recommend? For 265/75/16 on k02?

 

I had KO's on my truck until they wore out. I just used Z chains when the tread got low. With deep tread just air them down if you have to.

 

Anybody have a link for some good chains that they would recommend?

 

security chain company V bar with the cam style tensioners and add on the rubber bungie tensioners.

If you are getting "chains" for the rear... dont skimp out on meh cable chains.

 

Also remember that the speed limit for chain control in Cali is 25 or 35 MPH so you shouldn't tear the chains free.

 

I did the best I could to take measurements this afternoon and think I am screwed for now. There is an odd (useless?) bump on the knuckle that is only 1/4" +/- a cunt hair from the sidewall protrusions on my Duratracs. The tighest sidewall spec Peerless shows is 1/4" for their Super Z6 cables. It sure looks like that bump could be ground off without harm but I would want to be damn sure before doing it. Its hard to imagine the engineers just put it there randomly. I remember a thread here somewhere where a guy asked about grinding off that bump. Will have to see if the thread contained any useful info or if it was just the usual chorus of opinionated monkeys.

 

For reference what size are your Duratracs? Stock rims, or at least stock spacing? Thanks!