4x4's & Chains

the bump is just a part of the casting, it can be safely ground off.

I think the problem really lies at clearances of the UCA when turning and the sidewalls.

 

Let's talk snow chains I have no clue how to add a link but I tried starting a thread on chains and it has a few pictures of different sets.
I'm getting 1.25 wheel spacers to try running them in the front.

 

If you really want to trash some thing in you drive line put chains on all 4 you think driving on the pavement in 4WD is bad wait until you twist some thing off with chains on all 4's. Very common up here with guys plowing but they usually only do it once.

 

http://www.pewagchain.com/Products/Snow-chains/Bus-und-Leicht-LKW/pewag-mud-service-(1).aspx

Best chains hands down. Never let me down, the cams allow you to get them super tight. I have thousands of miles driving with chains, these chains have no competition. Pewag makes some other styles and some type of cable chains, they're made in Colorado, check out their website.

 

I probably never run them upfront but was hoping spacers and extra tight chains would reduce the risk of *ucking something up. Just my one is none 2 is one way of thinking........yes I'm talking sets

 

I have a set of RUD Grip 4x4 chains for the rear. They were around $140 shipped to my door. It is my understanding that it is German chain assembled in China. RUD and Pewag have some better offerings, but they are German or Austrian made, hard to find in the states, and significantly more expensive. The only way I could justify the money is if the truck was chained in November and stayed that way through winter, but I have only needed chains once before. I think my recommendation is a good compromise.

 

I live in the North Georgia Mts and have chains, actually use em from time to time. We got 18-24" here in 1993 and get 4-6" snows every year or so. Sometimes it may be 3-4 years apart, but that is part of the problem. Unlike places where snow is a regular thing, we have very little snow removal equipment. Major roads and interstates are cleared, but folks on back roads are on their own. And 4X4 alone is useless in snow/ice on steep grades.

I live on a steep mountain road only about 1/2-3/4 mile down to level ground. Everyone in our area parks one vehicle at the edge of a hay field at the bottom when snow is predicted. Most walk up and down, but the last few years I've been parking the Taco at the bottom. I then chain up my Wrangler and use it shuttle myself and neighbors up and down. Once off the mountain I do pretty good without chains, but wouldn't attempt it without them.

As said, they only fit on the rear of the Taco, but I can get them on all 4 with the Wrangler.

 

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265/75-16 on stock OR alloys.

 

Looks to be enough room for most class S chains at the UCAs.

 

ill have to double check, I know i had some rubbing on my LOWER control arm at full lock and the upper was close during flex.

 

The chains are long lasting and the cam locks make putting the chains on correctly (super tight) a lot easier.
The square link is the same style as the mud service chains, I think the mud service are the largest links. There are different size links available on the square link. I put myself in ridiculous situations because I knew these chains could get me through, I never had a failure that wasn't because of user error. I've worn out a couple dozen sets of chains, and nothing wears as well as these.

 

The first picture shows the clearance limitation at the knuckle from the top fo the tire. The bump where the problem seems to exist is partially black because the grime was wiped off when I pushed a piece of clay between the tire and knuckle. That was the only way I could think of to get any kind of reasonably close measurement.



The second pic shows the limitation from the front of the tire. It may look like there is more than 1/4" of clearance but that is because the clay cleaned up the tip of the bump and the black doesn't show up well in the picture.



I'm not sure what to do next. Maybe I will cycle the suspension and take additional measurements at the UCA, LCA, cab mount, and pinch weld. Maybe I will just punt and spend my time cursing the damn Toyota engineers that couldn't imagine users like me needing front chains on occasion. Or needing to haul anything, or better approach/departure angles, or larger tires...oh well. All in all I guess they made a pretty fine passenger car. Sorry, light duty mid-size truck.

 

@steelhd or you could switch to 235/85/16 and gain a little more than half an inch of clearance on that side. You were the one that just started the who needs fat tires thread, right?

Seriously though thanks for investigating and sharing photos. I've got some Z-chains I need to test fit on the rear and so I will give the front a look and see if I can measure and snap some photos with my 235s for comparison. In *theory* even the Z-chain would clear with a 235 and the Z6 would have room to spare. Probably after the holidays before I get to trying it though!

Also I wonder how much "extra" clearance one needs. Presumably the chains can flex and flap a bit in use. SCC even says for deep lugged tires the manually tensioned chains like the Z are suppose to be a bit under tensioned because the chains are designed to slip around the tire in use and larger lugs prevent that. No idea how that is achieved on chains with the automatic rubber tensioners like the Z6 but I've got to imagine there is some sliding and rippling to the whole thing when in use.

 

A bump like that on a casting or forging is most likely a manufacturing "artifact". Sprues and the like are often ignored if they are out of the engineer's way - deburred, smoothed over and forgotten. Removal by judicious grinding and polishing is safe - just don't leave a notch or depression and all will be well. The lump is not placed anywhere near a spot that could be considered a stress/strain "hotspot".

Maybe you need some tall skinny "ice tires"..............

 

If I lived, worked, or spent more time in places where I needed front chains it would get 235/85 tires with the right wheel backspacing or the Taco would get sold. But I only get into situations where I wish four chains were available more than once or twice a year.

 

So if I am understanding everything correctly, stock SR5 4x4, stock SR5 16" Alloys, 265/75R16 BFG KO2's, and a 1"-1.25" Spacer and I should have no issues at all running the low profile cable chains up front? I have real chains for the rear but it would be nice to have some for the front when I get on some nasty back roads. On hwy and even 95% of the time on back roads I just air down slightly under 20 PSI and I go where I please.

 

You won't know until you get down and run your hand around behind the tire and take some measurements. I guess that should be done at full lock and flex too. And I also guess you probably want something that meets or exceeds class S requirements no matter what you measure just to make sure nothing gets torn up.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQ6DK8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Purchased these today. Going to Yosemite next week and may encounter a chain control area. I also have fairly new Duratrac tires.