5-20mpg vibration after lift. Tried carrier bearing drop, didn't work

So I recently had some vibrations problems after a lift (common issue from what I've read...)

5-20mph vibrates but nothing after. Don't think it's related with the TSB since it didn't vibrate before.

I tried to put spacers in the carrier bearing (about 3/4'') but it didn't work. Vibration is still there, but a little less.

I will be checking the angles tonight with an angle locator to make sure both (axle angle and 1st shaft angle) are the same.

The kit came with lifting blocks for the axle already angled, so I don't think I have to use shims since they were made to correct that issue?

Is there anything else I should look at while I'm there?

 

I've owned 3 2nd gens and lifted a dozen more, all have vibes except 2, only thing that got rid of 99% of them was a 1 piece driveshaft.. other than that a trac bar will be the best bet

 

How big are those lift blocks?

How bad is the vibration? Lift is pretty much guaranteed to put your driveline "propeller shaft" out of it's design spec operating range angles - so minor vibrations where none were present before is a common side effect of lifting.

If it's something that's not very noticable or you have to really pay attention to notice - perhaps consider just ignoring it.

If it's really bad - perhaps try reversing the angled lift blocks and try facing 'em the other way.

 

1.5''

I put the thinner end facing front of the truck (as mentionned in the instructions) to counter the angle created by the lift. Reversing the lift blocks would only increase the angle, vibrations becoming worst...

I feel the vibrations everytime I start (30%+ throttle) from 5 to 20 mph. If I accelerate really slow (10-15% throttle), there's no significant vibrations.

I read the axle inclinasion had to be the same as the 1st shaft to balance everything, so I have to check this tonight after work and let you guys know about the numbers...

Just hope it will be fixed. The truck is brand new, this is annoying. I have friends with lifted F150 and they never experienced any vibrations. Toyota has homework to do if leveling those axle don't work.

 

Most pickups, including your friend's F150, have a double-cardan driveshaft. The angle at the pinion should be zero and point straight at the transfer case joint.

Tacoma has a single cardan driveshaft - the angle should be set so that the pinion flange is parallel to the transfer case flange.

Look up the installation instructions supplied by Dana themselves for how the flanges ought to be parallel. Also see:

www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Driveline-101.shtml


Short answer - It's also possible to spend more time researching it, measuring, and remeasuring than it would take to just reverse them and try it out, and you may find that "contrarian-backwards" shimming solves the problem. Or not.

 

So the axle and the trans needs to be at the same degree in order to reduce vibrations? From what I've understood.

The instructions are for 1 driveshaft, we have 2... This is slightly different?

When you talk about pinion, you're talking about the piece in the diff? (Sorry, english isn't my 1st language)

 

Yeah. Ultimately, you can't win; a lifted tacoma will be "out of spec" on one or more angles on its driveline based on dana specs for the single cardan design. That's why front driveshafts and cv axles use CV joints - they allow smooth rotation at higher angles.

For a long time I tried to "solve" it mathematically, then realized finally the problem wasn't solvable using the stock driveshaft.

So it's ultimately just a game of "which angles are least out of spec to minimize vibrations on your driveshaft."

Another way of saying it is "You can make it worse, but you can't make it perfect. So you're trying to make it least-worst." :-D

 

Ok so I bought an angle locator and checked... The angle from the pinion was different than the one from the 1st shaft

I removed 2 spacers each side from the carrier bearing in order to get the axle pinion and the 1st driveshaft the same angle.

Total spacing between carrier bearing and frame is now : 1/4''

Here are the new numbers:

If I invert the blocks (thinner part facing rear of the truck) the axle pinion angle would probably jump to 10-11 degrees...
What do you guys think of these?

 

I dunno man - that looks pretty clean as it sits now.

I'm gonna say I'm out of suggestions.

 

I encountered the same issue when I put my lift on. I put on a Toytech 3" Ultimate Lift with 285/70/16 tires. I never had the vibe until the lift, and it is felt between 15-20 MPH, then it is gone. The truck (2008) did not have the vibe before the lift. I asked Toytech and this is the response I received:
1) Make sure axle shims are correctly placed, skinny side forward.
2) Try to lower the carrier bearing (drop kit, which they say is for 4x4)
3) They have seen vibe coming from front diff output. East Coast Gear Supply recommends this fis: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing.html (it is also $200++)

(3) was apparently the last step one should look at if it cannot be fixed otherwise. Since I just received the email, I have not tried any of them. I will take a look at the axle shims tomorrow and see where those are at.

 

Yeah... Well the truck is brand new so i wont buy any aftermarket parts for now... I can ride like this its not that extreme. Removing washers to egalize angle really helped! Thanks for your inputs guys

 

You may find this useful. Authoritative information direct from the driveshaft manufacturer.

http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-DSSP.pdf

 

Thank you! I relied on this PDF to calculate yesterday...

They said the operating joint angle should not be larger than 3 degrees. I have .5 degree. (8-7.5) on a side and (8-7.5) on the other side BUT the angle between the transfer case and the 1st shaft is 7.5 degree.

If I go on and make it 3 degree or less, that means I would have to shim my axle another 5 degrees down (I would have now 2.5 degrees) but that would increase the angle of my 2nd shaft significantly, creating more problems...

In other words, I'll never be able to have 100% perfect angles... As you said, I can't solve it ''mathematically''.

 

Sub'ed

 

I personally would ditch the blocks and get atleast an add-a-leaf. Should put you right back at 1.5". I just pulled out my 1" block and replaced it with toytec's progressive aal and all my vibes were gone, and it really seemed to help with axle wrap these trucks are known for.

 

He's potentially got a point - the block gives the axle increased leverage against the springs.

With AAL - less leverage and stronger springs.

It's something to consider trying.

 

You're right! Even though it would stiffen my rear...

But whatever, vibrations shouldn't be there. Toyota has some homework to do... Every specs are 99% back to original and were adjusted accorting to the Spicer manual, it still vibrates a little. I think I'll stick with this for now and put other stuff like AAL + susp. upgrade once my bumper-to-bumper warranty will end.