5100 shaft is going through top hat too far

I have 1500 miles on these shocks, and they just started making some racket. I've received three different answers with regards to what I did wrong during the install of the 5100s and the OME 884 coils on my 2013 Tacoma 4x4.

• Mechanic - Missing bottom bushing
• Toyota Dealership - Everything seems right; there is no bottom retainer/washer under the bottom cushion/bushing.
• Toytec - I need a bottom retainer/washer under the bottom bushing.

So, what's the deal with the inconsistency of replies and diagrams available online? Have you all experienced the same? How should these be assembled?

 

Should go... (top to bottom)
Nut
Washer
Top hat
Bushing
Washer

 

The shock shaft cover is missing, that actually acts as a spacer/stopper. You need it to fix that.

 

The shaft cover actually slid down over the shock body. It's still there, but it won't stay up. Is that all that keeps the shaft from going through like it has? Is there any way to fix this without removing the whole assembly?

I'm thinking the cover actually bumps up against the washer that is possibly missing, and, without this washer, the shaft went right through the plastic cover.

 

Toytec says I need the following items below the bottom cushion

• metal spacer
• metal washer

I agree about the washer, but have you ever seen such a spacer (bottom)?

 

That spacer should already be on the shaft of the shock.

 

That one on the bottom is what the shaft cover slides onto

 

I vote that the bottom washer is missing. The shaft is being pushed up which is pushing the bushing down. This is not allowing the cover to snap into the groove for the shaft cover. BTW, not my picture. I found it online.

 

Shop that did mine left a piece out which resulted in the same results you have. Took it back and they dug around in the dumpster and found my stock struts, the piece was not transferred over... they redid it and all was well.

 

I appreciate the input, everyone. I've got the bushing kit and spacers on order from Toytec, and I won't be dealing with Suspension Connection again after this fiasco. Also, the dust covers are coming off completely, as they are unnecessary and even a hindrance in mud. As explained above, the correct installation of Billy 5100s is:

• nut
• washer
• bushing
• top hat
• bushing (may be part of top hat)
• washer
• spacer
• shock

Next up, Konig Countersteer Type X and meatier tires.

 

you don't actually need the cover, just the metal bushing that holds the cover on. You can pop it out of the plastic cover and use it so it will maintain it's function without having to run the actual cover/boot.
its the metal ring you see at the top of the cover in trdt44's pic that you will need to pop out and reuse.

It's possible during install that ring fell out and they installed the cover without it which would be why you have the space and also why your boot wouldn't stay up where it's supposed to.

 

To be clear, the "metal bushing" you're referring to is what I'm calling the "spacer," right? (See bottom item in this photo) That is definitely missing in the plastic cover, but so is the bottom washer. With all of that stupidity combined, we see the shaft push through the tophat.

 

Yes that spacer is where the boot connects and holds the bottom washer in place.

 

It may be missing from the cover but is it installed on the shaft and the cover just fell off it or is it missing on the shaft too. If missing on the shaft then it fell out prior to install and the installer didn't notice. That would most certainly create a large gap. If your are also missing the bottom washer above that "spacer" then that is just icing on the cake of careless installer.

 

This photo is under the bottom cushion. I'm not sure if the spacer is somehow jammed into the cushion, but the washer is definitely missing. Admittedly, I performed the install after consulting the Toyota Dealership and using the parts supplied by Suspension Connection. It looks like some parts were missing, and the local Toyota Dealership has no idea what they're talking about. After 8 hours, I had installed and removed the shocks 5 times, and still couldn't get the top nut on enough to find threads. I finally cut a few mm off the top rubber cushion and called it a day, hoping to never do another shock install. Here I am 1500 miles later.

 

You needed to use the weight of the truck. I had to put my tire back on (leaving the top nut, washer and bushing off)
Set the truck down off the Jack and the shaft continues through the top hat to put everything on.

 

I'll definitely try that this time. I used the jack near the lower ball joint last time, and there just wasn't enough weight to compress the springs; the truck was just lifting. I'm sure there will be more leverage to compress the spring from the tires, but it will be divided by two with both tires on the ground. It didn't seem logical, but I'll give it a shot.

 

Yeah putting the Jack under the lower control arm dont work as you and I found out.
Put it all together except those three parts. Put the tires on and set it down... this is why it's good to only do one side at a time.

 

i did mine with a spring compressor but I called some local shops when doing my wifes xterra and I needed to reuse her springs on her new shocks. They quoted me $40 to bring in the old shocks and take the spring off and install on the new (still ended up using to advance auto parts spring compressor on those too b/c I'm a cheap ass). So if you're only doing one. just remove the whole strut assembly spring and all. Make sure you have all the pieces you need and take it to a shop. They will probably charge you $20 or so to put it in there springs compressor device and put on your missing pieces and put it back together. Then you can just install the whole Assembly in the truck.