(559) TW Members Thread

Maybe leaf the front and link the rear ?
Cause this things a beast...

 

4WU kits is designed for low and high speed, that kit should be good, I think its the cost factor that people go with leaf set-up verse 3/4 link

 

Brute Force Billy did 75 to moab, he had more problems balancing his 41.5" bead locked wheels than cruising at 75 mph

 

hahaha, come on now, just have billy brute force do the SAS

 

I completely disagree with this statement. You don't see much 3 or 4 link rig on the road verse leaf is because leaf cost 2 times less than link, so most owners prefer leaf. Look at the TG kit you're running, 5 grand for a complete kit for the front. Link will average ~8-10 grand depending on coilover, brand of link kit, and axle. I know plenty of owners with leaf setup with "death wobble" after 55mph and refused to DD their rig unless they're heading to the hills. Also a plus, Link ride quality is 4x better than leaf while off-road, I'd rode in both. Also leaf flex will not come close to link. Day and night difference!

I probably won't recommend 4 link in the rear. Reason for this, your gas tank must be relocate and can cause your vehicle to not be in California compliance. Know a guy with a 95.5 taco with 4 link rear and smog place refused to smog his truck and send him to state ref which they told him it's either he green sticker his truck or move his tank to where it's originally located. If you plan on linking the rear, do a 3 link cause tank will not be relocate.

 

Fj third is better than arb, of you have the option of choosing. Arb will tend to leak on the oring and cause compressor to remain on if engaged. Replaced my oring twice and got fed up with it and changed to a taco elocker.

 

This is completely false!! A linked suspension is far superior to a leaf setup. There is a lot of setup that goes into links no a vehicle if the person knows what they are doing and the factors to consider( instant center, roll center, % antisquat, link mount separation, triangulation, etc.) it will absolutely destroy a leaf sprung vehicle. Most people don't do it because of money primarily and knowledge second. Making completely uninformed comments is retarded

 

A PLUS PLUS TO THIS STATEMENT. I WONDER HOW MANY LINK RIG HE KNOW OF TO MAKE HIS STATEMENT TRUE OR EVER RODE IN ONE TO CONVINCE HIMSELF LEAF IS BETTER THAN LINK

 

Nothing beats IFS! For what I use it for!

I was lucky enough to crawl with buddies with both leaf and link rig. I would have to say, why are you convinced leaf is better than link or even handles better than link? I had a 85 crawler on leaf and always wished I had the fund to link it, unfortunately I sold it. My buddies on leaf can not keep up with guys on link while on the trail, that's the truth.


If I just want to mall crawl, I wouldn't change the IFS setup. If I want to look cool and look hardcore but don't off-road cause I want a shiny Chevy looking like rig with all the shiny and she bangs that seems very capable with HUGE plastic balls hanging by the tow hitch, I'll buy a Chevy.don't SA a taco and do nothing with it. nothing is wrong with leaf, but my opinion, if I'm going to chop the taco front end up just to leaf it, I'll just buy another first gen, cheaper and I can careless as far as what happens to it. I can roll it, and I wouldn't cry.

My rant, have a cousin who SA his extra cab taco and only drive on semi paved to dirt road. Ask him a few times to take his taco hunting in areas regular 4x4 won't make it. His response is priceless: she's to pretty and don't want to dent or scratch her up but when he talks to other rig owner he talk pretty hard and stuff, I'm like wtf... but hey, it's life

If I chop my taco, 4wu kit is going under it to mate with a diamond axle, nothing else. Life short, invest your money on something that's worth it and drive something different.

 

Definitely a lot of good info here. I'll just rebuild my ifs and save for a few more years... because i need cvs, uniballs, bushings, gearing, carrier bearings, leaf springs, upper control arms, and a locker...

Hopefully hit up rubicon this summer in my new ifs

Need to own this truck for 16 years before I sa it.

 

Thanks for the input, I was going to regear using yukons with an arb or a zip locker from marlin, but now I'm intrested in the elocker.

What would be the route to go with putting an elocker in a C7 housing 8.4" diff with mechanical LSD ?

Would I need to find a complete 8" elocker housing and re gear that ?

Probably be more ethical to build my current axle with air locker during the front and rear regear process, and from some of my research, the 8.4" diff has a stronger third, because it actually still uses a 8" ring.... also they are not interchangeable, the ring and pinion that is, from elocker 8" to non elocker 8.4"....

 

The 8.4 is stronger. But from personally opinion, won't make a huge difference for us average crawling Joe. Try telling the many guys running who's running the 8 inch on 37 to 42 that your 8.4 is better. Many will agree, but many will also laugh. Why would they laugh, cause they can conquer what your 8.4 can as well. If your running a true dedicated crawler, it's best to invest in the best so that the potential of leaving you stranded is less likely to be present, but they all do break as well no matter how strong they're suppose to be.

I doubt the 8.4 uses a 8 inch r&p. That's true to the t100 to first gen taco and should be the same for second gen. They're not interchangeable when I last checked. Might be wrong, Maybe someone can provide more info?

Get a fj80 hp elocker for that diamond front and complete drum to drum fj80 rear or just run both diamond. Better rock clearance, better shaft angle and uses no air. The plus side of it is that you can manually engage the locker as well, incase you blow the actuator. As in arb, if compressor blows or break the air line, that's it.

 

Understandable, but if I run arb, I'll have run two compressors...
Anyways my idea was building the rear as is, and swap the front to match the rear...

Where as elocker are non existent for 8.4" diffs, I may run arb in rear and e locker up front.
Or keep my lsd and go arb up front, and sell the arb later to as I am trying to hit rubicon and a few more other trails next year in ifs, which means I need to regear, and what better time to add a locker than when the diff is apart ?

I also like my lsd as I am used to its characteristics on, and off road.

 

OR stay home until I sa my rig... which, I'd rather build a barley street legal rock buggy suzuki samurai with yota running gear trailer queen, and LT my taco as a tow rig in that time for a ton cheaper off used parts, with lunch boxes for a snack

 

Seem like some misunderstood my statements links are far better than leaf in crawling situations but leafs are far better in high speed, don't take my words experience both and you'll see

 

LSD is better then open diff but I personally believed that once you try a selectable locker, you'll get rid of your LSD. LSD will only engage once it sense one tire spinning faster then the other, not controllable by the operator. Why wait until you're half way up a rock for the LSD to engage. As for selectable lock, it's the best for all around driving. Will never engage while in town driving and you can lock it before going up a rock. Why wait until your stuck for the LSD to lock, activate your selectable locker before going up the rock.

As far as arb compressor, you will only need to run one for two air locker with three rocker panel switch. 1 for activating compressor, 1 for front locker and 1 for rear locker

 

I was going to keep my compressor setup, and run the smallest arb compressor for the lockers, that way it'll be it's own system.

 

Where are you getting your information from that link can not handle freeway speed when compared to leaf? Look at fj80 series land cruiser, your telling me they can only do 55 and not going on freeway? Or older runner with factory rear link?

Some of us here already experienced the difference in speed for both link and leaf. Link built right handles far better off and on the road than leaf. Guessed you never heard of the term "death wobble" If link is piece together by an non sense person, yes it will ride horrible. Just as leaf, piece incorrectly do su#k as well. When comparing two complete, built correctly rig, one with leaf and other with link, leaf will have no comparison to link. End of story.

As a wise man once said, there no need to argue with the inexperience cause you'll lose. They just bring you down to their level to which they're best at...

 

Fjcruisers has a factory 4 link rear

 

Alrite mr experiences chill my nephew in Sac had a 3 links yota with 39s once i hit speed 60 and above the steering column shake and vibrated heavily have to put both hands on the steering all the time this made it harder to drive in high speed, mine on the hand with leafs are far smoother close to stock with 37s.
Have you really drove both trucks in high speed or just by listening to others, peace