5spd Bleeding Clutch Need Help

Do you think the clutch pedal is bottoming out before full application? Since it worked before you adjusted it, I am willing to put some money on something else keeping you from full motion

 

I had a similar issue with my brake master.


Ended up having to replace it. No amount of bleeding got the pedal correct

 

What exactly do you mean?

The clutch pedal worked fine before i tried bleeding the line, it just released/engaged almost all the way out at the top of the pedal travel. I personally think everything is still in working order, i think theres just some reason im having trouble getting all the air out of the system..

 

You have a 6spd right? and how much did the master set you back? you go OEM or aftermarket?

Also were you having problems bleeding your brakes, or your clutch?

 

I wouldn't buy a slave. If it's not leaking it's fine

 

On mine, since I have an old clutch, it releases way out towards the end of the stroke. Fully depressed, the pedal touched the floor of the cab. If you adjust the pedal lower, you may be coming into contact with the end of your stroke, before the master has reached its full stroke.

 

Its definitely not leaking, i think its still in working order. I almost had it after doing the back bleed from the caliper bleeder to the slave the first time. Really thought the battle was over..

 

My clutch has only 40k on it, but it hasnt had an easy life by any means, the truck is really heavy and it's been hard on it. Do you think if i adjust the push rod in the cab to be longer, or shorter that it might solve my bleeding problems? and if so, which way would you try adjusting it?

 

The back bleed really will get the bubbles out! Maybe you should rest up and try again

Is the master leaking externally?

 

Did you adjust the actual master cylinder pushrod? Or the pedal adjustment?

 

No leaks anywhere as far as i know. Truck is in really good shape for having 240k on it. I will probably do exactly that. Get rested and keep working at it this weekend. Im thinking i will have success eventually, even if it takes a looongg time

 

Just the pedal adjustment in the cab. Dont even know where the master push rod is.

The only push rods im aware of are the ones on the pedal and the one on the slave, but idk if the one on the slave is even adjustable.

Have never had any clutch issues with my truck, so i really have no experience with any of this

 

Just the fact that you were getting some results with the back bleed makes me think it's a air bubble issue

The master cylinder is made of plastic though and they don't last forever. Sometimes I've had to replace them even when they weren't leaking just to get the air out

 

IT is highly possible that the reduction in throw of the pedal, because you adjusted it lower, could be keeping the primary cup inside the master from fully pressurizing the fluid completely. IF it's not building up complete pressure, it could lead to leaving air bubble in the system. Might be why the back bleed gave you some success, but ended up failing in the end. All speculation, as I cannot put hands on the truck lol

 

Yeah i think its a bubble and possibly a clutch pedal adjustment issue. Dont know what else it could be.

I may just try to make the push rod shorter and then try back bleeding it again. Seems like back bleeding it and adjusting the pedal push rod length is the best bet before i start replacing parts

 

To :

1. Adjust clutch pedal [instructions attached earlier]
2. Attach vacuum to bleeder, open bleeder, vacuum until no air in tube (if any)
3. Have someone press the pedal and hold, vacuum a little to create positive vacuum
4. Push slave rod in, vacuum until accomplish positive vacuum
5. Close bleeder
6. Release pedal
7. Let slave rod out
8. Test and hopefully it's all good

If this doesn't work, you should have evacuated enough fluid out by now that pushing fluid from the brake caliper should be OK. I would definitely bleed the caliper first, to expel any bad fluid.

If not good after this then air is getting into the system and parts need replacing.

May ToYoda be with you

 

This will definitely be the route i go when i get back to it! I have a bad feeling that parts will end up being replaced unfortunately though..

The truck just had a brake job maybe 5-7k ago, and i got stainless lines installed, so the fluid is really clean. Im hoping i can get this solved without dumping more money into the truck, but its gotta get fixed, so im prepared for the worst

Thanks again for all your help!

 

Golly , this is a long post
Only thing i can add to this puzzle now ...... Jack up the rear end of the truck as high as your jack will go and let the slave cylinder slowly gravity bleed and drip for at least an hour or two . Jacking up the rear of the truck compensates for a truck that sits higher in the front than the rear
Thats a trick I use for trucks that are difficult to bleed and it works every time .
If you picture where your Master cylinder is situated on the firewall , sometimes you dont get the best gravity bleed because the Master cylinder is tipped forward when you try to bleed the clutch .
If you jack up the rear end of the truck , you change the bleed angle and create fluid flow .
Other than replacing the Master , thats all I have at this point .
Great comments from the above posters mind you .

 

Thats a great tip....

Saved to my mental library now!

 

Thank you for the advice! Definitely going to try this when i get home!