5VZ-FE 3.4L Fan and Bracket Delete / Electric Conversion

So thats the electric fan the offer?

 

No, this is something I am just putting together. A lot of aftermarket electric fans do not have the best cooling capabilities. The one I am using is off a 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII. If you want to search google, this is regarded as one of the best OEM fans.

 

Cool, how you plan to wire it up? I see 3 wires.

 

http://www.dccontrol.com/relay_controllers.htm

 

That's beast of a fan and at full speed draws a lot of amps.

 

Mine actually caught fire on me one day while I was sitting at a stop light, so watch out for that lol.

The wiring harness did, I mean. It was then that I decided to just ditch them for the stock fan clutch setup since I was having cooling issues anyway.

 

Its sure is. Alot of behind the scene upgrades I am working on to be able to run it. Big 3, 200amp alt, controller that can handle the amps, etc.

 

The actual fan, the wiring, or the controller? I've beefed up the wiring to 10awg, and I've had to do a little surgery on the controller(blew a trace on the power input side of the relay).

 

Sorry I should have specified, it was the wiring that caught fire. The Flex a Lite dual fans came with my truck, so the PO either put them on himself or had someone else do it....there was a switch inside the cab that I could turn the fans on/off with. Was a strange setup to me. Anyway, one day at a light I saw white smoke coming from my wheel wells and pulled over in time to get the small fire taken care of. Went straight to the shop from there and told them to rip it all out and put a stock fan in, lol.

 

drooling

 

You and I really need to do some wiring some time lol. Get the grimlins out

 

The flexalite controller is horrible because it runs all the power through it on a single fuse. I melted a fuse holder. For many years I used the flexalite controller to activate relays for each fan. Never had a problem after that. I even ran a switch in the truck and hooked it to the ac switch so I had on/off/therostat. There is some more info in my build.

 

Just my 2 cents, but I almost always give fans 10ga and a 30 amp relay/fuse....just to be on the safe side (obviously match the fuse for the application). I completely wired mine from new relays, primary fan gets a resistor, fuses, and adjustable temp switch. They always draw a ton of juice.

 

I like the A/C idea, but I didn't do it only because I wanted to switch on my secondary with a set temperature, and also use my heater to draw heat (in the event something was looking catastrophic).

 

I was thinking a dual fan setup, using the wiring design from the 94-01 Acura Integra because it's capable of being triggered by the a.c. controls and the fan switch

 

http://www.rattlebars.com/avalanche/relay_basics.html

Based off this, I bought a 2 basic relays and used 10 ga, heat shrink and 2 seperate in-line fuses. I’m also running a rear mount radiator, so the whole setup is 10 gauge using a 92 Ford Taurus dual fan radiator. Don’t get me wrong I need to add a secondary fuse block for better plumbing from the battery. But never had troubles keeping it cool in low crawling hard and high throttle for 10-20 minutes straight. Just food for thought-fans can really pull some juice. But generally the switchable power to engage the relay can be small, where as ground and main (+) needs to be larger. So you can simply pull off almost any switch, I just happened to buy the cheaper dial type temp switches to dial in a bit.

 

Any follow up on this project?

 

I’m curious about the original question on simply removing the fan bracket and shorter belt. (I might use original bracket modified rather than build a cover.) Anyone done that? If so, what was the belt length or belt manufacturer & #?

 

Great mod if you notice that your head gasket seals too well and you no longer want it to.

 

Found this on YotaTech.