5vz Rebuild First Timer Noobtastic Thread

Well got 'er down to the block, crankshaft, and oil pump today. Didn't have a puller to remove the crank shaft pulley. Will see if I can borrow one from Autozone, O'Reilly's etc.



Here's how to get the crank shaft pulley off:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...lley-removal-help.417480/page-2#post-11876870

 

The last pic appears to show were the head gasket blew, right? Between the coolant passage and the fire ring? Thanks for taking the time to put up all the pics. Looking good brother.

 

I think so - the rust was only in that cylinder which seemed to be the evidence of the bhg - looking at the small distance between the cooling passage and the cylinder I'm finding a greater appreciation for the level of precision the engineers have in what they design. I'm also realizing how spot on I'll have to be in reassembling the engine.

You're welcome. Thank you. It's fun to see results each day. Hopefully someone looking at this will want to try it

 

Finally got the crankshaft timing pulley off and the crankshaft out - got the tool I needed from Pepboys as a rental.




The bolts came from Lowes - finding metric bolts is like being a redheaded stepchild at Thanksgiving - you're sharing the leftovers with the dogs so here's the number for the bolt to look up online before you waste time going to a store that doesn't have them:



And the crank. Hosed it down with brake clean and wiped it down. Put some motor oil on it to keep it from rusting. Squirted a little WD-40 into the oil cavities for good measure. Looks like I'll have to have the surfaces polished to get rid of minor imperfections - I don't think any of them are bad enough to have to grind it down, but I'm just starting to learn about all this stuff so I may be wrong.

 

Sub'd

I'm super impressed with this. Keep up the good work man.

 

Thanks a lot man. So far I've just been doing the things I've seen in the videos I've been watching more or less. I'm thinking of making a video for the swap since I haven't seen one yet. I'll probably stick with the photos through the rebuild process. I just bought this book:

$75 Reher-Morrison Championship Engine Assembly

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0972343288/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Why are you tearing this down in the back of a pickup bed? It seems like it would be a lot more difficult vs. putting in on a stand

 

I can't argue against that. The reason is that I live in a basement apartment with a narrow walkway between a chainlink fence and a bunch of hedges that a stand would never be able to wheel down due to imperfections in the ground and most likely it would be too narrow for one if I were to lay a bunch of plywood down ie something like that.

I've been talking with some neighbors and I think one of them will let me use some of his garage to assemble the engine in trade for keeping the stand that I'll buy when re-assembling it and another who could use some help replacing some coilovers and ball joints on his car in trade for letting me use his sister in law's car port for doing the engine swap.

 

Building on a budget, understood. Carry on bro.

 

Are the plugs next to the firewall hard to get to? Kinda sounds like somebody replaced the other 4 and skipped those because they couldn't get to them.

Good luck with your project.

 

You stole the biaaatch

 

And it runs.

https://youtu.be/hwLOqb-LY6A

 

Finally got the water pump off today. It had been hanging on by the gasket sealer, and I've been too busy to get to it while in the process of working and getting a new job. Tapped it off with a brass punch. That thing has been really helpful in working on the truck lately.



Lots o' rust in the water passages and pump:



Degreased the major crud and took the block out of my bed finally after 2 weeks




Gotta figure out finances before I send it off to be machined.

Anyone know the thread diameter and pitch of the two studs in the front for the water pump and the larger one? I bought a few metric nuts and none of them are the right pitch, which is odd because all of the other ones I have bought have been the right ones just by going off of what Lowes & Home Depot have for standard metric sizes.

 

I'm going to make your life a lot easier in the coming weeks/months. Forget home improvement stores, because, well, they're home improvement stores. Find a local specialty fastener store, I'm not sure what you have in your area, but even Fastenal will work. They will have a vastly superior selection of fasteners to choose from, so you can get the right piece instead of just making some galvanized bullshit work.

Mad props to you for doing this in the back of your truck, best of luck.

 

Thank you! I'll check out Fastenal - I know there's one nearby from when I searched looking for shipping options for big items. I'll be getting all good bolts (oem if I need any bolts besides the torque-to-yield ones I already am going to replace) when I re-assemble the engine. I'll probably buy some extra standard size nuts and bolts from a place like Fastenal in case I need an odd size once in awhile. Collecting hardware is a fun hobby of mine lol.

Oh yeah, this came:



Between this and a .pdf copy of the FSM thanks to @mechanicjon I have some summer reading to do

I've been thinking about getting new remanned heads since I'll have to send both of them to the machine shop anyway and they've been in service for 20 years by now. I need at least one new camshaft for the passenger side where the leak was and if I buy a new camshaft and get the head machined assuming there's no cracks, it'll probably end up close to the cost of a remanned one. I found a place on ebay that's actually within driving distance and they offer a deal on both remanned heads for under $700 with a 3 year warranty (void if they overheat though):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191652061056?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Edit: Looks like I won't be going with these guys: They have 1 star for 16 reviews on FB and 45 complaints with the BBB, even though they somehow have 100% feedback on eBay for 1,259 sales I'll keep looking.

This place is a little more, but has 100% good reviews anywhere I look:

Cylinder Heads International in Grand Prairie, Texas

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-TACO...m20c47e0c24:m:mPl2NvAKdonQnUp7ZUfx4kw&vxp=mtr

Any opinions on whether I should work with the existing heads and get a new camshaft or two for the passenger side? The goal is to make sure this thing runs smoothly for a long time. Even if I have to spend a few extra hundred on it.

 

Either option on the heads will leave you with remanned heads, so I'd guess whichever makes more sense cost wise? Progress is looking good hombre.

 

I agree, here in the Seattle area lowehomedepot is the worst place to buy threaded fasteners or nails. They charge 2 to 4 times what other stores charge and my experience has been if they can't find what you want they insult you and tell you it doesn't exist.

Tacoma Screw has reasonable prices and will find what you need and it's across the street from the nearest loweshomedepot.

Dunn Lumber is the place to get lumber and nails, they also have some threaded fasteners.

 

Yeah Tacoma Screw is my go-to, usually for things to screw to my Tacoma.
Unfortunately they don't have them in SoCal where OP is.

 

There's something that just feels right about having a store called Tacoma Screw.

I've gotten some decent prices online for hard to find guitar related fasteners. I'll check out Fastenal since there's one nearby. If anyone knows the thread pitch and diameter (I'm pretty sure it's 8mm dia if it doesn't turn out to be SAE) of the water pump studs I'd appreciate it. I'm pretty sure that the nuts had been removed by the time I came across the long block and the block is a little heavy to walk through the aisles with at the hardware store j/k.

Thanks for the info though - it's appreciated - have a good day.

 

Machine Shop Pro's, 3 yrs in business, nuff said...