5VZFE Turbo

What software are you going to be running?
NSP OR ESP?

 

NSP, his ECU already updated out of the ESP versions

 

NSP looks better. I can use the ESP, but would have to downgrade the firmware first.

 

It's just another vent similar to the Pcv. Both valve covers appear to have the same baffle on the underside. The block technically doesn't have a vent tube like lots of other engines do. All crank case gasses/pressure is vented up through the cylinder head oil drains and out through both valve covers.

 

I have a check valve on mine.

You shouldn't need one to get it running though, it's only "needed" under boost.

 

Be pro active to keep your map saved as you work through the tune and backed up when it's completed.
You can disable the auto updates on the top bar.
I'm running NSP and my auto updates settings were active and it updated a new firmware in the NSP and it lost ALL MAP INFO, EVERYTHING when it was updating.
Had to start the whole tune process form start again.

 

Thanks for the tips. I did get the truck running today, enough to move it out of the shop, but it doesn’t run very good yet. Idles ok, but unable to drive it just yet

 

Truck has been tuned by SNP but the trigger is all over the place above 2500. New crank sensor on the way now, apparently this is an issue with high mileage 5vz’s and standalone ecus.

 

Yeah we have noticed it as well. Denso replacement from RockAuto solved the issue. VR sensors are fun like that

 

Exactly what I have coming from Rock Auto

 

Haha, join the club, I replaced mine but still have trigger issues at 5300rpms, I can live with it tho

 

I turned the filter for the crank trigger down to 0 and did the same with the home trigger and then had the system go full sync after the first time the engine crests 1300rpm. Full sync seems more stable through the occasional signal loss at higher RPM. VR sensors are tricky and the haltech doesn't seem to like the OE style toyota ones very much.

 

Yeah, haltech doesn't like the Toyota sensor design, My rev limiter was working and set at 5700rpms even hit 6k and that last auto software update messed everything up and it's stuck at 5300rpms for now

 

I'd love to find an easy way to do a hall effect trigger wheel and sensor setup, but the crank hub doesn't leave much room for one. Oh well, can always use a VR to Hall filter/converter box if it really doesn't play along, stand alone guys have been doing this for Toyotas and Nissans forever.

 

FYI, you can call haltech and they can remote into your haltech to help your basic setup, ask for Andrew, he's a wizard

 

Oh yeah, they're excellent. Think I've got the hang of it now though, setup is spot on. Just doing the tuning stuff now, that's much more fun than initial setup haha.

 

Inspect your wire harness going to the crankshaft sensor along the front of the block for any damage.
I had a tear in mine harness by the dipstick, should be shielded

AND make sure you ground wires are really well grounded, clean if needed, if not haltech will pickup lot of noise and not be stable

 

Glad the manifolds worked out!

 

Truck is now tuned with 650cc injectors. I have to weld a tailpipe on this weekend and then I will be ready to do some road testing/datalogging. Still getting a trigger error DTC and a good buck when accelerating hard, but only in 1st gear. I did notice that the Haltech is very sensitive to the crank sensor air gap, so I am going to see if I can close that up a bit with some careful polishing of the sensor mating surface. Maybe some edge rejection fine tuning as well. I will say it’s quite fast now at only 4 psi. I have to set up the boost controller still. Edit: I forgot to mention that while tuning, the AFR went very rich (10.1) on it’s own, STFT was -20 and could not compensate. Turns out there is a setting in the software for fuel pressure regulator vacuum reference. It should have been connected to manifold vacuum, I had it routed to the throttle body.

 

Thats great news on your progress.

Interesting about the air gap,

Did you find some info on this somewhere?

If so should not be hard to shave down the flat side that gets bolted to the engine
Keep me posted.

I changed my plug gap to
026 and no difference, still kicks out at 5100rpms with a trigger error.
Otherwise runs fantastic