6 speed shenanigans. RA60F swap to RC62F

I’ve been following

 

I did turn a little adapter to make the release bearing that I selected play nicely with the Tilton release bearing piston. That would not be necessary if you were doing this swap using the 3rd gen pressure plate and release bits though. Details on that are in the the other thread. Let’s discuss that there for the benefit of all that’re interested.

Although they’re a little bit blended; I’ve been trying to keep the trans swap info separate from the clutch/etc... thread. My thoughts on that are the possibility that someone may be interested in the HRB and not so much in the trans swap. Or, vise versa.

 

I did more driving around today. Had to get the truck through emissions. So, I knew I needed a bit of freeway driving to complete my drive cycle.
Wow. Is the best word I can think of. It’s awesome. Cruising at 75 is quieter and more relaxed. It was fun to downshift into 5th (same ratio as the RA trans 6th) and buzz along for a bit, then click it up into 6th and watch the rpm’s drop. I think the driveshaft balancing is a factor as well. The truck feels so smooth now.

 

First post updated with parts list. I'm probably forgetting something. Remind me of any glaring omissions and I'll fix it.

 

I've been following both threads and it's making me think about the Mustang hydro bearing retrofit that URD used to make (which I do have in my truck now). Wondering how possible it would be to adapt that kit. Based on the pictures you've posted, I can see my hack abilities making that work.

 

Couple questions for other people that might want to consider doing this to their trucks.

1. Was there a reason you shortened your rear shaft instead of also getting the rear shaft from an A750F truck? I think it was mentioned, but then you ended up only doing the front shaft.
2. Was there a reason you went with the hydraulic throw out bearing instead of using the original release bearing setup from the RC62F beyond having already looked into/worked on it for your RA60F? Perhaps I should read the other thread.

Jeff

 

Are you speaking of their U-fix kit that had you cutting off the quill and using a baseplate that clamped on the pivot ball end and affixed to the hole for the slave cylinder?

 

I had surmised that there was likely an OE rear shaft that would be a straight bolt in. (I was thinking from a 3rd gen though.) I doubt I could've found one for less than the $120 that I paid to have the shaft shortened, balanced, and the u-joints replaced though. So, I never pursued that option.

For the very brief period that my previous hydro bearing was working well, I really liked the feel of it. I've heard third gen guys complaining of issues with their stock release hardware too. I figured that this setup should be fairly trouble free if I did it right. Time will tell I suppose. I did save all that stuff. So, if things go sideways, I'm ready.

 

I'm not sure how many people have their trucks from 2wd to 4wd, but due to the carrier beating being in a different location the driveshaft will need to be custom. That is if they are doing a both conversions at the same time, other wise just take the existing shaft to have shortened. Hope that gives you some of the info you're looking for.

 

Yeah exactly.

 

Yeah that's probably true, plus you know yours is nicely balanced as well.

Jeff

 

I believe that what Jeff is pointing out is that the way I went about this is is not the only way that it can be done. The OE 3rd gen release stuff will work as long as you use a 3rd gen pressure plate. I’m betting the driveshaft he mentions would work right out of the box as well. The more information that’s out there, the better. I’m totally cool with that.

This is the first time I have performed this swap. Heck, it might be the first time anyone has. We’re all going to learn more about doing it as others give it a try.

 

From what I'm understanding with regards to length of transmission, is that the RC is 1" longer than RA. Meaning that the auto front and rear shafts should work? Also the cross member mounting doesn't need any fab work?

My apologies if this has been answered been digging for a little. I want to manual swap my second gen auto long bed. Deciding on the right transmission right now.

 

Yes that is correct. but, the cross member needs the bolt holes drilled out to a larger size. 10mm I believe.

 

Seems my aspirations just got more expensive lol

 

No drilling was required actually. The holes in the crossmember were fine for the 10mm bolts. Went right together like it was made for them.

 

The only real modification this swap requires is going to be the shifter or shifter hole, and then some small brackets here and there. If you buy the right parts, it's basically a slap it together type of a situation.

I might do something about that shifter if I find the time...

Jeff

 

I gotta cut a new hole anyway! At least I think I do lol

 

Carpart prices between these model transmissions seem to be pretty damn close. May be worth it to swap to a newer one.

 

Well this just keeps getting better. Lol! I hope I drilled the holes large enough the first time.