6 Speed Shifting Issues

I think both @rjbiii and I got rid of the catalytic converters ages ago.... but your point is still valid. Lean is not good.

 

I forget not everyone is subjected to the same emissions crap that I am living in CA, lol

 

The leaner, the cleaner baby!

 

Yep just ditched the cats a month ago! But still need to get things to be richer..

 

I wouldn't be able to survive out there. California is against everything! A modder's worst nightmare

 

In some ways yes, ultimately it's just more expensive of a habit here because you have to make sure what you buy is CARB certified...which is just CA's way of getting their money out of aftermarket companies, so we have fewer options to choose from.

Anyhow to remain on topic, I also suggest the Marlin Crawler shifter seat bushings...I've seen threads on here where people have been advised by their mechanic to replace the transmission when all they ended up needing was a $10 shifter seat replacement. It makes a big difference since the stock ones fall apart over time

 

On a related topic, I have the Hurst short shifter AND the URD short shifter at the same time. Feels like a racecar shift!

 

If I were to tighten the bolts this way would I still need to tighten them in the pattern to keep them even. And how do you rotate the clutch to reach all the bolts.

 

You’ll have to get a ratchet and big socket on the crank pulley at the front. I have a really long ratchet for this purpose - looks like a ratcheting breaker bar. Note, you should only turn the engine in the direction that it turns when running (clockwise if you’re standing in front of the engine) because if you turn it the other way, you risk the timing chain skipping teeth on you.

Tighten them in a star pattern, yes.

 

Oh shit.. mine may have turned a little in the wrong direction when tightening down the flywheel bolts.. do you think i would have been able to tell if it skipped on me? or will that be evident when i try cranking it up and it screws something up?

I used a crow bar on the teeth of the flywheel to keep it from turning but it would fall occasionally and i know it moved a little a couple times..

Not gonna lie im a bit sick to my stomach now after reading this. I really hope i didnt fuck something up, the last thing i need is more problems

 

I was more or less meaning if you intentionally turn it tens or hundreds of degrees in the wrong direction. A little slip resulting in a few degrees of reverse movement won’t be a problem.

 

This was how my truck was acting when the clutch master cylinder started going out...

 

I finally got a chance to look at the truck this morning. Here is what I found.

I put a set of vice grips on the soft part of the clutch line and tried to pump it. It seemed like it had a little bit of give, but nothing really. Could have also just been all of the bushings worn out. The master itself seems to have a slight film of fluid over it, appearing wet, but nothing is leaking. I did notice that the pushrod on the mater is not straight with the body of the master. It is at a slight angle.

I checked the pedal adjustment. The pedal height was right on, however i had ~30mm of free play before it engaged. I adjusted it down to around 7mm. It made the pedal feel alot better and seems to have improved the shifting slightly.

I checked the pressure plate bolts. I did not get to see all of them but the 3 that I did were tight, not loose.

I checked the slave by having the wife step on the pedal and watch to see if it lost pressure on the fork. It did not and the pressure plate did not move as if it were loose.

I took the shifter out and inspected that. The bushing on the end of the ball has some play in it but nothing terrible. The seat seems to have been completely disintegrated except the rubber part. There was pieces of it all over the place.

I have some MT90 on the way, so I will change it when it gets here. I am going to get a new bushing and shifter seat on order. Not sure what to do with the master yet.

Does anyone have a picture of what the stock shifter seat is supposed to look like ?

 

The one pictured in that thread is not a OEM one. I was wondering what the OEM looks like.

 

Well I can tell you that when they go bad, they look like a bunch of little chunked up pieces of what was once a bushing seat.

 

I got the fluid replaced with MT90, it made a marginal improvment, but nothing major. There was some very fine metal on the magnetic drain plug. I am assuming from the hard to shift issues I was having.

I installed the marlins crawlers heavy duty shifter seat and bushing and that did it. Shifts much better now and no horrible noises coming up through the shaft when it is in 2-4-6 gears.

Overall its not perfect, but hugely better. I suspect the synchros took some wear due to things being worn out/out of adjustment.