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60,000 Mile service Quote "Get Bent"

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by chriscampion, Mar 2, 2010.

  1. Mar 2, 2010 at 6:32 AM
    #1
    chriscampion

    chriscampion [OP] New Member

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    2006 Toyota Tacoma 4.0L 4WD AT 60,000 Service $629.75
    Factory Recommended Minimum Service Requirements



    Re-torque propeller shaft bolt


    Replace engine air filter


    Replace cabin air filter


    Replace engine oil and oil filter * * Reset the oil replacement reminder light ("MAINT REQD") or the message "OIL MAINTENANCE REQUIRED" on the multi-information display after engine oil replacement.


    Replace spark plugs* *1GR-FE engine. Maintenance services of spark plugs are required under the terms of the Emissions Control Warranty.


    Rotate Tires


    Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis


    Replace front differential oil (4WD)


    Replace transfer case oil (4WD)


    Replace rear differential oil, including limited-slip


    Replace automatic transmission fluid


    Inspect The Following Items:




    Inspect Exhaust pipes and mountings


    Inspect drive shaft boots (4WD)


    Inspect steering linkage and boots


    Inspect Steering gear box


    Inspect Ball joints and dust covers


    Inspect Brake lines and hoses


    Inspect Fuel tank cap gasket


    Inspect Drive belts* * Initial inspection at 60,000 miles. Inspect every 15,000 miles thereafter.


    Inspect Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs * * Inspect thickness measurement and disc runout.


    Inspect Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses


    Inspect Radiator, condenser and/or intercooler


    Inspect Engine coolant * * Refer to "Engine Coolant" in the "Explanation of Maintenance Items" section in the owners manual for more information.


    Inspect Engine valve clearance (except Tacoma with 2TR-FE)


    Inspect limited-slip differential oil, if equipped.
    [​IMG]




    Final Total Price $629.75 [​IMG] Customer Signature: ___________________________________________
     
  2. Mar 2, 2010 at 6:40 AM
    #2
    NumNutz

    NumNutz One of the original 7928

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    Lots.
    What's your point?
     
  3. Mar 2, 2010 at 9:27 AM
    #3
    Notty

    Notty Well-Known Member

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    I think his point is that's a lot of friggin' dough for an inspection!! haha THey hardly do any real work as all they are doing is inspecting half of that list.
     
  4. Mar 2, 2010 at 9:30 AM
    #4
    blackwatertaco

    blackwatertaco If you ain't stuck, You ain't tryin hard enough.

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    One fucked up diff. breather mod, 265/75/16 Destiny Dakota M/T Black gulf states rims BHLM Magnaflow 14" muffler with cut off tail pipe. 10" pioneer slim truck sub with JBL 600W amp. PROJECT BLACK OUT
    F*** that...I hate dealers.


    Oh and Welcome to TW.com
     
  5. Mar 2, 2010 at 9:31 AM
    #5
    raskal311

    raskal311 Well-Known Member

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    5100 set to max, pending LSD and TRD CAI
    Take the list of a local shop and they should do it for about $200.
     
  6. Mar 2, 2010 at 9:33 AM
    #6
    duckcmdr

    duckcmdr If it flies it dies!!

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    Do it yourself and save the cash for mods.
     
  7. Mar 2, 2010 at 11:01 AM
    #7
    Brunes

    Brunes abides.

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    DC or New Jersey - Depends on the day....
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    Inside: Tint, Wet Okole 1/2 Piped Red/Black Covers, Black Weathertech Digital Fit Mats, URD Short Throw w/ TWM Weighted Knob, USA Spec iPod adapter. Outside: 4300K Retro w/ Angel Eyes and Red Shrouds, 5000K Blazer Fog Light Retrofit, Debadge, Bed Locking Handle, Satin Black Rims Performance: TRD/Steigmeier Blower w/ 2.7 Pulley. 668 Injectors and 320 LPH AEM Fuel pump. URD UCON and 7th Injector. DTLT Headers, URD Y-Pipe, Wicked Flow Muffler. Suspension: Both: OME Shocks Front: 886X's and TC UCAs Rear: Dakars Armor: Relentless Front Bumper Relentless High Clearance Rear w/ Tire/Rotopax Swing Out Relentless Front, Mid, and TCase skids BAMF Diff Skid Recovery and Spares: Fullsize Spare Tire 2x2 gal Rotopax 1x1 gal Rotopax 1x1 gal Water Rotopax Warn 9.5XP-S Winch Hi-Lift Extreme 60" Ironman Off-Road Recovery Kit
    That's the problem with going to the dealer...You are paying 90 or 100 bucks an hour for the techs "labor" and that is before parts etc etc.
    Totally worth doing it yourself....Better quality fluids and replacement parts for less dough...and you know it's down right.
     
  8. Mar 2, 2010 at 2:49 PM
    #8
    ScubaCougr

    ScubaCougr Active Member

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    It's the obscure fluid changes that kill you. Transfer case, differential and AT fluid pushed my 90K service to just over $900 for my recently replaced Ford Ranger. And a bunch of that is probably the required recycling.

    Since I can't do it all myself, I just smile and think of England.
     
  9. Mar 2, 2010 at 2:54 PM
    #9
    SilverStreak05

    SilverStreak05 Well-Known Member

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    TC and diff oil can be purchased at any auto parts store. I don't know what type of ATF Ford trucks use, but it's definitely not going to be obscure.

    Most decent auto stores will also recycle your used oil as long as it's in a proper container.
     
  10. Mar 2, 2010 at 3:01 PM
    #10
    Taco4x4NC

    Taco4x4NC Well-Known Member

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    3m clear bra or Venture, stant locking gas cap, Shield, front windows tinted, weathertechs, ARE "Z" topper. Sockmonkey decal, Billy 5100's x 4 corners, Eibach coils, Toytec 1.5 AAL. Michelin 265/75/16 MS2's, Grillcraft MX series/TOYOTA badging. FJ/SE TRD Anthracite gray wheels. Katzkin leather/heated seats.
    I rearranged your list, this is probably what I would have the dealer do. For what its worth..and its bound to be much much cheaper.

    Replace engine oil and oil filter * * Reset the oil replacement reminder light ("MAINT REQD") or the message "OIL MAINTENANCE REQUIRED" on the multi-information display after engine oil replacement.


    Replace spark plugs* *1GR-FE engine. Maintenance services of spark plugs are required under the terms of the Emissions Control Warranty.

    Re-torque propeller shaft bolt
    Replace front differential oil (4WD)
    Replace transfer case oil (4WD)
    Replace rear differential oil, including limited-slip
    Replace automatic transmission fluid
     
  11. Mar 2, 2010 at 3:35 PM
    #11
    M2M

    M2M Well-Known Member

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    I'll trade ya for my wife's 100 K Acura service !
     
  12. Mar 2, 2010 at 3:52 PM
    #12
    Its_Taco_Time

    Its_Taco_Time Well-Known Member

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    What do you mean what's his point?? That quote looks good to you? I would love to be your dealer.
     
  13. Mar 2, 2010 at 3:54 PM
    #13
    crittergitter

    crittergitter Proud to be Canadian Navy

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    What is up with the valve clearance check? Don't these engines use hydraulic lifters?
     
  14. Mar 2, 2010 at 3:55 PM
    #14
    eddieEndo

    eddieEndo Well-Known Member

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    Agreed got quoted like 3xx.00$ at the dealership for my 30k service , other mechanic did it for 170
     
  15. Mar 2, 2010 at 3:56 PM
    #15
    dog tired

    dog tired Well-Known Member

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    I have a Hyundai that will need a time belt @ 60,000

    cost will be around 7-800

    I had a Nissan and the 30,000 PM was quoted to me 800.00 and was practically impossible to DIY

    I will do the Toyota myself and I realize that today the fluids are crazy expensive
     
  16. Mar 2, 2010 at 3:58 PM
    #16
    BBY2KS2K

    BBY2KS2K Jon Stewart / Stephen Colbert 2016

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    If you insist on having the dealer do it, you can always buy the supplies yourself and have the dealer use your oil, plugs, filters etc. Some shops do it, some don't. But all of them will mark up whatever supplies come off thier shelves.
     
  17. Mar 2, 2010 at 4:28 PM
    #17
    goingcamping

    goingcamping Well-Known Member

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    Custom body work...boat trailer came of hitch, hit tailgate and Rammed stick thru lower valance while towing boat....hmmm, Maybe I should get a new boat?!?
    I just went through this about a month ago...

    The dealership here quoted me about the same for most of the items you've listed. I did ALL myself and saved approximately $400.00.

    I changed F/R diffs, Transfer Case (all with Mobil 1 synthetic lube). Replaced all spark plugs with Denso factory replacements. Had front rotors turned and replaced pads. Had Discount Tires rotate and balance all tires (free if tires purchased there).

    It's all very simple stuff, it just comes down to time and resources. There are tons of good write-ups on here for just about everything. Nothing you've listed would require a master mechanic's level to do.

    Good luck and you just might learn something.

    Oh Yeah, according to the service manager @ the dealership in Motor City, Colorado Springs, the transmission (auto) should not be changed until it hits 100,000...I am skeptical about that; however, I trust this guy as he's a past client and I know him and his family very well! If you feel as others feel on TW, follow the thread on changing the fluid...
     
  18. Mar 2, 2010 at 4:49 PM
    #18
    mainahtacomah

    mainahtacomah Active Member

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    Debadged, mud tires stock size, painted radio surround, painted door switch panels, all season rubber floor mats, 6k hid headlights/fogs, k/n drop in air filter, blhm, custom y pipe and side exit cat back 3in, painted rear bumper, front skid plate, r/r hitch, secondary air filter r/r mod, lots coming!!!
    I work at a honda dealer, i'm a honda technican and have been for years now. The big services are important to any vehicles reliability, performance, etc. The thing that sucks is when you got a good group of techs and greedy service writers/parts guys. I've seen service writers over bill people before for a simple service. Break down the times, when you do a front/rear diff service, transfer case, oil/filter change, engine air filter, 120 point inspection, rot/bal, and an fi all seperate from the "30k" time it's less amount. Another way you can get nailed is on "additives" lol oil and fuel mainly. Fuel ok, but if they're using a good oil then there is no need for an oil additive. Things like a 90k/100k service are important, big mile stone for a vehicle. You can definitley save money doing it yourself. It's really easy for me cause i work on cars allllll day long for a living so i can but it's VERY hard for people who don't have that luxury. My 2 cents are that dealers aren't always scammers and private shops aren't always your money savers. Both can be good/bad with pros/cons. I work for a dealer, i'm honest and try my best to save people money...it sucks when a service writer or parts guy throws un needed service chargers, mark ups, and "additives" lol at you...i'm rambling now sorry guys...i get the feeling of being screwed over and the price at 100 bucks an hour can be outrageous. we as techs love the time a big service can pay when on flat rate (which i am) but most of us don't wana screw you over, want to keep you coming back and will try to help as we can!!! Again not point fingers at anyone...dealers are always more expensive but use the correct stuff which is a good thing
     
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