7 Pin / Air Bag fill valve relocate behind flip up license plate

I won't pretend I have the patience and skill to write up a mod w/ the precision or detail that I've seen done by so many others. This mod certainly isn't new, I've read of other people doing similar mods, but I didn't find any pictures, so....

1st thing, lower the spare tire, get it out of the way so you have some room to work. Remove the bolts from the factory bracket holding the 7 pin, remove bolts holding bracket to truck - discard bracket and bolts. I unhooked the 7 pin from the factory wiring harness, cut some tape that was holding it to some other wiring harness, a plastic tie down - sorry didn't think to get a picture up under there before I unhooked it. Here is a pic right after I disconnected it:



Here's a pic after the 7 pin has been disconnected and removed:



Next it was time for some surgery on the 7 pin housing. I didn't think to snap a picture, but it's pretty straightforward - take a hacksaw and some pliers and cut off the the stuff that's going to stop it from fitting flush. Or you could be less of a cheap ass than me and go buy a new 7 pin that's designed to fit flush and wire appropriately.

Remove license plate, drill a 2" hole in bumper where you want the 7 pin w/ a hole saw. Drill holes for mounting 7 pin and for air bag fill fittings. Tape it off and paint it. Yes, I know that's a terrible paint job, license is going to cover all of it, just didn't want to leave bare metal to rust:



The flip up license plate bracket I bought from Summit did not fit the factory license plate holes - to wide by about 3/8". A few minutes work w/ a chainsaw file and the insides of the hole were opened up to where they would fit:



I attached 7 pin w/ two stainless 1.25" length 1/4" diameter panhead bolts with sheetmetal washers, lock washers and lock nuts. Used the exact same hardware to attach Summit bracket to the bumper (inserted through the factory holes, factory holes in the bumper are just in the plastic and don't have washers and nuts - spring loaded bracket won't work with factory bolts through the plastic, they'll strip). Inserted air bag fill valves using supplied hardware. Also, the little caps on the bumper that cover the bolts won't clear the plate with this bracket - no big deal to me, I had already lost one, I shit canned the other...





Attached license plate using the Summit supplied nylon inserts and screws, job complete:





Side view - plenty of clearance for fill valves:



Trailer wiring connected to verify everything still works (note license plate is still readily readable:



Another view w/ trailer wiring connected:



With wiring connected the plate is supported by the flip up from the 7 pin, it's not resting on the wiring:






Hope this helps someone that may be considering doing same.

David

 

nice work! did the same to mine a while back, but it flips down.

 

Thats pretty slick. I just moved mine to the left lic. Plate light hole. That looks better though.