775 Tacomas

RELENTLESS..... how much for sliders with kick out powder coated black i want to keep buisness local

 

Bolt on or weld on?

 

whats the difference height?

 

OME 885s will get you over 2.5" The top plate spacers will give you more lift (twice the thickness of the spacer in lift).
AALs give you more load capacity as well as lift. I would get a 3 leaf progressive AAL if I got one (I went with the Dakar leaf pack).
Diff drop is for the front diff and doesn't help & may hurt on 2nd Gens.
If you are trying to level you want to lift the front around 1" more than the rear.

 

so the next question is do i need to buy individully or a kit like the OME above

 

$160 for the coils + $170 for front 5100s from Wheelers.

 

I would get them seperate since ToyTec only offers a single AAL. Try DownSouth Motorsports & Wheelers. Both offer TW discounts.

 

That's the set up I have with 265/75R16. If I had to do over, I would go with a progressive aal. These stock springs suck.

 

If I were in your shoes, I'd call up wheelers, order their progressive AAL, OME shocks, 885 coils, top plates, a single trim packer, and ask for a TW discount. I wouldn't get a diff drop. I'd also use a spacer and a new bolt and raise up the bracket for your rear brake lines on the axle. Then get it aligned and see if you can get away with not running UCAs and test drive it to see if you don't mind the handling without UCAs.

 

Only difference is mounting preference. If you think you might want to take them off later, go bolt on. If you want them permanent and very solid then go weld on.
Bolt on would be $539, weld on $369+ install welding($80). Coatings are extra. I can arrange powder coat for between $150-200 or I can coat them in DIY bedliner for $60

 

Agreed.

 

Quick question, since you mentioned top plates. Where do those go? Do you have to disassemble the coil, or do they go between the perch and the top of the assembly?

 

I think it's like a leveling kit

 

There are top plate spacers, top plate lifts, and pre-load spacer lifts.

The ones to which I refer are these.



They sit on top of the stut, in between the coil bucket. Eric cut me some 1/2" aluminum ones and I was able to use stock studs with some different nuts and washers. I have a few threads to spare so it's fine. Otherwise you'll need to disassemble the assembly and use the longer studs. You'll effectively get 2x the lift compared to the height of the spacer.

These sit on top just like the others but they're much larger and they're designed to use stock studs as you can see. You can run into the problem of making your whole assembly too long and bottoming out the shock before hitting the bump stops. They claim to maintain "factory ride".




The others sit inside the coil assembly and preload the coil. Risk of bottoming out coil but not a big deal unlike bottoming out shock. Not likely to happen regardless.









OME shim packers sit at the bottom of their coils but inside the assembly and "preload" just like any other "preload spacer", they're just small to correct side to side variation.

 

Here you can see a "preload" spacer with a top plate spacer.

 

=bad

 

Heres mine with 886s and nitrochargers and a 1/2 Relentless Fab spacer. Using different nuts and washers vs extended studs.

 

Not necessarily. Not much different than my set up. I have a higher rate/longer spring and a top plate. He has a spacer inside the coil and a top plate. As long as the coil doesn't bottom out on itself it'll be fine.

 

I wouldn't buy one if I went offroad a lot. Another question, with 5100's, and you have preload on them, wouldn't the coils bind before hitting the bumpstop??

 

Yeah, I was talking about the 1/4" top plates. I have the 885 coils, and when I get my bumper and winch, I'm thinking I might need a little more lift. I probably won't go 886 until I do skids and sliders and start to get real heavy. Glad I won't have to disassemble my coils.