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7Way trailer hitch wiring question

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Payduck, Apr 23, 2013.

  1. Apr 23, 2013 at 10:43 PM
    #1
    Payduck

    Payduck [OP] Member

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    Hey guys. I just got the wiring harness to take my 4pin trailer hitch wiring and go all the way to the 7 way round wiring.

    The wiring harness has its 4 pin connection and 3 wires out of the pigtail with buttsplices on them.

    One goes to reverse lights for a reverse lock out, one goes to a brake controller, and one goes to 12v power.

    My question is: how should i connect that wire to power? Direct to battery? or to the headlights somehow so i don't have 12v going to it when the car is off?

    Any input it very much welcome!

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  2. Apr 23, 2013 at 10:49 PM
    #2
    scocar

    scocar being weird again....still

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    Do a hot lead from the battery POS terminal to a 40amp circuit breaker as close to the batter as possible (like less than 18 inches). Then continue from the circuit breaker to the back of the 7-pin. No need to switch the line. You just need to disconnect the 7-pin from the trailer when the truck isn't running so you don't drain the truck battery.
     
  3. Apr 23, 2013 at 10:52 PM
    #3
    scocar

    scocar being weird again....still

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  4. Apr 24, 2013 at 6:51 PM
    #4
    Payduck

    Payduck [OP] Member

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    Thats EXACTLY what i was looking for, plus awesome pictures! Thanks!!
     
  5. Apr 24, 2013 at 10:16 PM
    #5
    scocar

    scocar being weird again....still

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    01: OME 881s, Dakars, greasable shackles, Nitrocharger sports, extended exhaust hanger, BAMF BPV relocate, Wheeler's extended brake line, rear diff breather mod, swaybar removed, Pilot backup lights, Redline hood struts, 4Runner 5-stars, Hidden Hitch Class III, 7-pin marine-grade wiring
    :D you're welcome. I just had to figure this all out myself.

    FYI, if you have a 7-pin you may as well run a wire for the trailer brake controller, too, even if you don't have one yet. You can buy jacketed wire that includes black and blue primary wires in a gray jacket, which makes it super easy to route and gives them extra protection. The trailer brake will take a 20A breaker (that's the second one you see). I don't even need it for my small trailer, but figured I would do it right and be ready for anything and never have to crack open all my heat shrink and split loom again.
    Leave the extra controller wire coiled up and zip tied somewhere safe near the firewall under the hood.

    Looks like this, and you can get it from e-trailer or a trailer/RV supply type place. Get 25 to 30 ft to be safe.
    [​IMG]
     
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