8” IFS Clamshell w/FRS Torsen

I have not looked at the 16+ differential, but I’m about to do my first oil change since getting the mechanics of the AWD working (5k miles) and it seems to be settling in nicely. I love the truck this way, especially in PNW weather. I don’t plan on going over 32” tires so the 3.91 was plenty gear for me and readily available.

 

https://www.yukongear.com/diffdetails.aspx?DiffID=255&PartsLink=PartCats.aspx?SearchMode=Make&MakeID=12&MakeName=Toyota&ModelID=404&ModelName=Tacoma&Side=Front&DriveType=4WD&DiffID=255&DiffName=Toyota+8%22+IFS+Clamshell+Front+SD20B

I would call it a maybe. Accordingly to the Diff Wizard of Yukon Gear, They specify the 8in Clamshell between 2005-17... knowing the 3rd gen starts in '16, it may be the exact same housing. Note that this does not consider the brackets to attach the diff to the frame. We would need someone to be a guinea pig and check fitment.

I think you have made a great choice on gears. I am personally running 32" in the winter and 33" in the summer on 4.30 gears with the automatic transmission. Is yours a MT?

 

What was your experience like switching from presumably 3.91 to 4.30? Who did the work for you on swapping the gears?

I'm running sliders, skids, and a canopy with gear year round on my DCLB,and am finding myself switching down gears often as the truck feels a bit sluggish. I'm running 32" winters as well, and looking at running 33" this summer potentially.

 

How's that working for you? I'm wanting to run 4.30's and daily driver on 33's and 35's on occasion for trail runs etc... Trying to grab a elocker 4.30 from a 3rd gen t4r and I may be the guinea pig that trys to swap a 16+ clamshell with 4.30 into the front of my truck.

 

Late to the game, but bravo Sir!

 

Same here. I'd love awd and 4:30's. Might actually have traction then.

 

Truck just got it’s first test in actual low traction conditions, snow/ice in BC. With just the front and rear torsen diffs and the shittier than stock tires that came on it, she’s getting around just fine. I can’t wait to get decent tires and brakes that work, lol.

 

Welcome to BC. Enjoy the mild weather.

 

Nope, mine is automatic. Once the drivetrain and brakes are sorted I will eventually supercharge it. Would be really cool if @Gadget@URD got a Whipple kit together for us in the next yearish

 

Stumbled across this thread searching for info on using torsen units in 3rd gen (2016) front diffs. This is very interesting.

Would it be unsafe to assume that if the OEM FRS unit works, then equivalent aftermarket LSDs would as well?

 

It's usually unsafe to make assumptions. Based on known bearing sizes for multiple diffs/housings across Toyota/Lexus products is how I came to at least an informed wager that the FRS unit would work. From talking to @ZUK, it seems that some aftermarket units that might fit have known issues with oiling/inner-radius/circlip where the front CV shafts are inserted. With the FRS unit my front CV shafts popped right in with a little tap (imagine holding the CV shaft in place with one hand and trying to get a decent swing in a narrow space with the other) and I've had zero issues in 6k miles.

My recommendation, if you just want to be rid of the front end vibes for good and have a tame steering wheel (in AWD like my truck), would be to swap in a 4-pinion carrier. The needle bearing vibe isn't from the needle bearing, it's from the inner casting of the 2-pinion carrier (in video at 0:57):


The 4-pinion carriers should fit similarly, but are machined to exact tolerances and should eliminate vibes for good. As an example, the Lexus trucks come with a 4-pinion machined front diff (in what is basically an inverted FRS housing).

 

I don't think I saw this in the thread yet - is it possible the FRS unit fits the stock taco front diff if I wanted to keep the ADD system? (with the intention of locking a 4runner/FJC transfer case to keep the potential use of 2wd)

 

Should, yes. There is no difference in the taco vs fj tube.

 

Thanks! I definitely have the wheels turning...

Forgive me if this is a stupid question - what keeps the FRS diff from working in the rear too?

 

I think it would also fit the rear if you’re looking for something cheaper than a TrueTrac, you can usually find whole FRS rears on eBay for $4-500ish. Lexus IS300 uses the exact same unit, but will be luxury taxed.

 

Thanks. That might be the way I end up going. Makes matching the ratios that much easier.

 

I sorted out the wiring for anyone still watching this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-overlander.559330/#post-19709858

 

Think the info your looking for is in here.
And yes, I have the 4runner tcase which gives me RWD, AWD, and 4WD electronically shifted it was the v6 models. The v8’s were full time awd, 4wd

 

Just happened across this baller thread! Kudos bwawuz!

Once upon a time, years ago... I asked about putting Eaton Truetracs front and rear in my '04 DC TRD OR. The e-locker snobs about laughed me off the forum. My idea then was Truetracs front & rear, with the stock Taco transfer case... with an eye towards someday putting the same transfer case that came in my wife's '08 T4R Sport (V6 Auto).

Please forgive the late, and n(.)(.)bish questions... but...

Why go with the FRS unit(s) in the front? Why not put a Truetrac in the front diff and call it good? Or is this where a 2-pinion / needle bearing something-or-other (sorry, I'm not going to be as mechanically up to speed as most all of you) causes undue vibration in the front end, so you went with a different front diff to avoid a vibration issue?

With my idea, I was going to find a 1st gen Taco Pre-runner or 2WD axle off CL or Ebay or just the interwebs, and simply swap out my whole rear axle. What am I missing with the rear axle?

Thanks for keeping a running score as you project has progressed.

 

The FRS unit that he installed is an Eaton Truetrac. There is no Eaton Truetrac listed for the Tacoma front diff.