$89.95 Transmission Drain and Fill

It made it that long???

 

One issue with this statement is unless you are removing and/or cleaning the filter after the flush you are not removing anything from the trans. Its just a fluid exchange and there is no such thing as a "back flush" as some places sell it, the transmission fluid can only flow one direction (can't be pumped backwards) and you are just trading fluid through the filter. One last thing is while some metallic "gel" like substance is normal for the pan magnets if there is any sediment in the pan that is a sign of abnormal wear, could be due to heavy towing/extreme use or lack of servicing and fluid break down.

 

Thanks. I guess I will have to make sure to tell the dealer to verifiy the fluid level after radiator install when the time comes. Shame you can't just trust them to do it afterward.

 

There IS no filter on these. Only a basic screen. The screen is not really capable of filtering out the tiny particles of sediment. Yes, there is no such thing as a reverse flush. I don't think I suggested as such. I guess we are looking at things differently, and perhaps I didn't explain well enough. Yes, it is just a fluid exchange if all you do is swap out the fluid, however when I mentioned using the proper machine, I should have included that a chemical is added at the beginning to help break loose any sediment in the transmission, specifically the valve body, where it has the greatest effect. So in the terms that I was using, it is called a flush because of the process, and chemical cleaners.

 

I understand on our trucks there is a screen filter, not a paper or felt like others. I even said it in an earlier post, I was generalizing all the different makes and models of vehicles not just toyota. I also never said you specifically said it was a back flush I was clarifying that some dealers and quick lubes try to tell people that they run the fluid backwards to clean the filters, yes i said filters. What I'm trying to point out is yes using a machine that transfers in new fluid and out with the old is a great non harmful process to get all the fluid out but it does not remove anything from the transmission but fluid. The valve body and solenoids are filled with smaller screens to filter as well and with only being able to go one direction you are just getting fluid, if you have debris stuck other places but the pan magnet you have larger issues.

Transmission fluid is extremely high detergent, you can clean oil off a driveway with it. There is no need for extra cleaning chemicals it would be like adding a few drops of joy to your dish water filled with dawn to add more cleaning power, now fluid when it gets overheated will varnish on the inside of the case/valve body but typically if I see varnish I see other damage to clutches and other frictions.

 

I apologize for thinking you were directing a specific statement towards me. I must have misread. As for the flushing, I still disagree with you. I am quite aware of the VERY few screens inside the valve body. Their filtering capability is miniscule at best. Sure they will pick up larger particles, but the sediment is too fine to be stopped by those screens. As such that sediment WILL collect up in the valve passages, causing some valves to stick, or not move smoothly. Part of a PROPER flush is to use a chemical that is formulated to break up the collection of debris, get it out of the valve body, and flush it out into the machine, while forcing clean fluid in. While it is not a PERFECT solution, it is a hell of a lot better than just a drain and fill, which does nothing to break up sediment, and loosen shift and control valves.

In one of my transmission classes I taught we took a GM 4L60E transmission that came into the dealership with a shifting complaint. We dropped the pan and captured the fluid that came out. I showed the bottom of the pan to my students and there was a thick film of sediment in the bottom of the pan. It covered the entire pan. The fluid was dark, but still had a pinkish tint to it, and had no burnt odor. We then put the pan back in place without cleaning it, and put the drained fluid back into the transmission. After that we added the sediment cleaner to the fluid and drove the truck on the rack for 15 minutes. After that we connected the flush machine to the cooler line and ran the flush. 16 quarts of fluid were flushed through the transmission during the 30 minute service. On a GOOD machine there is even a sight glass that shows fluid flow rate and color. After the flush we removed the pan to replace the filter. All of the sediment was gone except a small amount stuck to the magnet. The sediment was a sign of a small amount of metal wear for sure, but the truck had nearly 150k miles on it, and was expected. The fluid was a bright pink color again as well!
I discussed the details with the customer and he was quite happy with the results. He returned a couple of months later for his oil change and said the transmission was shifting like it was brand new. So I know for a FACT that a properly done transmission flush will work, to help improve longevity, and performance.

 

You may be correct, I have been in automotive field since 2005. I have been in a transmission shop for the past 4, we are continuously training and going to seminars and expos (ATRA). I take the management classes mainly but when I get out I go sit in the technical classes, in this time I have yet to find a product that actually does as it claims. What is the name of the cleaner you use, I'd be interested to tell the owners about it and see if its something we should consider. We don't have a flush machine because most manufacturers specify a service as pan removal with filter replacement or drain and fill.

Just a fun fact here, the flush machine was actually developed by an owner of a quick lube shop (sorry I don't know the name of the specific place) the reason for the need was when Chevy in the early 90's redesigned the 1500 cross member and it blocked the pan from being removed. So because back then a speedy service was there call sign they were having upset customers due to the time a service was taking (typically over an hour) some were even bending the cross member to access it. So this owner developed this machine to make the service back to an hour.

 

A good DIY way to fully exchange all the trans fluid is to do it like this.

1: Disconnect one hose going into the transmission cooler.
2: Put another hose on the male end of the trans cooler that you just disconnected the other hose from.
3: Now get 2 5 gallon buckets and direct the hose connected to the transmission in one and the hose connected to the trans cooler in the other.
4: Determine which way the fluid is going threw that line (depending on which end of the cooler you have disconnected)
5: Fill the bucket with the line that is the inlet side (side pulling fluid in) with about 11-12 quarts of new fluid with the hose at the bottom of the bucket.
6: Now start the truck up and the old fluid will start pumping out into the empty container and the clean new fluid will be pulled in the other side by the pump.
7: Once you get clean fluid coming out of the outlet side shut the truck off and hook everything back up.
8: Now all you have to do is get the level set correctly and you're good to go.

 

Excellent replies and some great reading here .
I had a cooling line fushing machine that I used strictly for Honda,s as the PB style tranmissions do not have a transmission pan considering the transverse design .
When it came to anything with a transmission pan , the pan always comes off first to determine the contamination . Once the pan is off and filter cut open to determine the condition of the transmission , we would then go ahead and flush the transmission using the flushing machine that connects to the pump suction port where the transmission filter fits into the valve body .
There is no better way of flushing a transmission . Using a flushing machine that connects to the valve body filter location is the best way possible to flush the transmission .
This machine eliminates the possibilty of forcing contaminates from the transmission pan into the valve body because the pan is already removed when the flush is performed .
Not all shops consider this machine as it is a little more expensive considering the valve body inlets that need to be made in comparison to the standard 1/2 inch NPT thread that most manufacturers use with their transmission cooling lines .
Keep in mind that the newer valve bodies use shift solenoids rather than mechanical spool valves . Shift solenoids have larger oil ports and are less prone to sticking in comparison to the older mechanical spool valves that were used in the past

 

The machine that I have always had at the dealerships was one supplied by BG chemicals. I do not know the specific maker, or model number. Sorry. I have gone to some of the ATRA seminars, and used to be a member or ATRA. (I still have my subscription to Gears Magazine!) I started at the dealership level in 1994, and after completing the ASEP program I became a drivetrain tech primary, and did driveability and electrical secondary. Loved every minute of it!

The problem with doing this is that 90% of the transmission pumps draw fluid from the pan, not the cooler line. So that is not a safe method to use, as it would allow a transmission pump to draw in air and cause all sorts of trouble then. Good thought though.

True, but remember that even though the SOLENOIDS are electrical, and the larger ports help prevent sticking, but usually it isn't the SOLENOIDS that stick, but the valve body internal shift valves and control valves that get stuck.

 

Only by driving it like the old man that I am AND no towing other than a 1500 lb. camper.

 

Anybody in AZ get any A/T service costs from dealer?