92 pickup transmission oil seal problem

That's the plan! But yeah, at this point I'm thinking maybe I just take it to a mechanic because of the driveshaft bolts. I'm also considering driving it home (500 miles) before fixing this because it's lasted thus far, but that's a long drive...

Yeah that sounds kinda sketchy to me...nice disclaimer

 

If the socket and cheater bar are starting to deform the nuts, it's time to move to a 6-point socket, and an impact.

You can get an electric 1/2" drive impact from Sears for around $110.
I spent 4 hours replacing the clutch on my bike.
2 hours were spent fighting the nut. 1 hour was spent driving to Sears to get the impact tool.
The next time I did the clutch, I had it done in about an hour.

 

Yea it somewhat is. When I did it the liquid wrench didn't have a problem, but the grease from my ball joints did like to go up

 

I live in a 1 bedroom apartment...Don't really have a whole lot of access to space for an air compressor and an impact wrench. I'll have that when I drive to SD in two weeks, but that'll be after 500 miles and I don't know if that's an okay thing to do.
But otherwise I agree, I will probably need the impact. Hopefully it's better tomorrow, but who knows.
Thanks for the input, though! I appreciate it.

 

Same here.

I have a little 2 gallon compressor for tires and it'll run an air ratchet, but it won't run an impact.

That's why I specified the electric impact tool.

I just checked the Sears site and they have a lot of cordless now, but most seem to be set up with the 1/4" female drive to accept driver bits... not the 1/2" square drive like I have.

But they are available.
This one is closer to $200, but this is what I'm talking about.
http://www.homedepot.com/Milwaukee/...word=impact+driver&storeId=10051#.ULwdOGeqaN8

 

Haha, my bad. Missed the electric part... -_-
I didn't even know that electric ones existed. I thought that they were all air powered. Definitely an option, now!

I don't know if an impact wrench will fit in there, though. I couldn't get a socket wrench to line up to the driveshaft side nuts well enough to be effective.

 

If you took it to a garage to get this done , They would be throwing heat at the nutts rite away . An oxy acetylene torch can concentrate the heat directly at the u bolt nutts . Gear oil takes a while to burn . It usually smokes before it catches fire . Yes , wipe off as much oil as possible . Whats gonna burn ? probably just the seal that you are planning to replace . A good snap on 6 point wrench will work fine to get them off or cut the U bolts off and buy new .Have done this many times

 

Kevin, did you have any luck with this?

 

I just got home from campus a little bit ago, so I haven't tried. I talked to my mechanic today (who my family's been taking this truck to for probably 10 years) and he said that I should just check the t-case fluid levels and bring it back home so they can do it.
Given that, I didn't really want to try to loosen those bolts any more because I wouldn't want to have them come off while driving on the freeway... But I'm still open to suggestions

 

With the angle of my driveshaft, there is not enough room for a socket at the t-case flange. I eat my wheaties and use extra long combination wrenches.

 

Well maybe I'll try it tomorrow. Too cold out to try it tonight and I still need to make dinner. Tomorrow I can do it in the middle of the day.
We'll see what happens, thanks for the suggestions

 

try crc freeze off

you could try heating it first too

I'd post in the Cali forums... someone is bound to have an impact and want to help you.

I'd help if you were closer.

 

Well I just tried it again and I still can't get it. I'm just going to take it home and have my mechanic do it. I have finals coming up next week, so I won't have much time to do this anyways.
I learned a fair amount in just setting up for this, though, so thanks for your input!