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95.5 Manual transmission problem

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by armstrong750, Dec 17, 2013.

  1. Dec 17, 2013 at 7:59 PM
    #1
    armstrong750

    armstrong750 [OP] Member

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    I've got 95 Tacoma with a manual transmission that's got 202K miles on it. I bought it last summer from a friend who was the original owner. I know very little about how transmissions work, so I thought I ask the group here if I have a serious problem.

    Upon first start up and take off (when cold), it is difficult to get it into first gear, and the first couple of upshifts to second send unusual vibrations or jerking through the shifter, and sometimes makes a grinding noise. After the first couple of upshifts, it gets smoother and isn't an issue. Another odd trait is that I have to practically push the clutch through the firewall to start the truck.

    Are these indications of a particular type of problem that I can address? Or should I accept that this is life with a 200K+ automobile? I'm thinking clutch adjustment; but as I said, I know very little about these things.
     
  2. Dec 17, 2013 at 8:03 PM
    #2
    toastyjosh

    toastyjosh Well-Known Member

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    Bleed the clutch, drain the trans, refill with redline MT90.
     
  3. Dec 17, 2013 at 8:18 PM
    #3
    RyanC

    RyanC Well-Known Member

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    Also, be sure you let the truck warm up a little before throwing it in gear and driving off. My 95.5 is much more difficult to shift when its very cold then when its warmed up. Engine oil lubricates better at warmer temperatures, so does trans oil.

    Yes I know your engine running does not warm the trans up but it does make the entire process of making your vehicle go, much smoother.
     
  4. Dec 17, 2013 at 8:38 PM
    #4
    Mr.Bohannon

    Mr.Bohannon Well-Known Member

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    I've got a 96 5 speed and it was definitely notchy at 170,xxx. I had issues getting into reverse when it was cold sometimes. Just last week drained and filled with Redline mt-90 and no more problems cold or warm. Actually, it seems to be getting even better as I drive it. Chances are the trans fluid has been neglected. A clutch bleed definitely wouldn't hurt either.

    Edit: Also, if you do drain the trans make sure there are not large flakes of metal in the old fluid. Fine dust is normal to see.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2013
  5. Dec 18, 2013 at 6:13 PM
    #5
    armstrong750

    armstrong750 [OP] Member

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    Thanks for the information, everyone! I will hope to find time during the holidays to bleed the clutch and change the tranny fluid. I'll let you know if that does the job.

    D
     
  6. Dec 19, 2013 at 12:14 AM
    #6
    Loggerhead

    Loggerhead Well-Known Member

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    I've got a 2.7 with manual trans and it doesn't like to shift so well when it's real cold either. I drained and filled with Redline MT90 and replaced the shifter bushings with Marlin poly ones. This helped some but I guess you get used to taking it easy on your shifts until your transmission warms up.
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2013
  7. Dec 19, 2013 at 11:07 AM
    #7
    armstrong750

    armstrong750 [OP] Member

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    Well, if you can tolerate the problem up there in Alaska, I'm sure I can cope with it here in Dallas. I'm sure it take A LOT longer to get that sucker warmed up there!
     
  8. Dec 19, 2013 at 11:34 AM
    #8
    JLee50

    JLee50 Well-Known Member

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    I'd flush the clutch fluid entirely, not just bleed - I did it to my truck and the old stuff was nasty.
     
  9. Dec 22, 2013 at 2:25 AM
    #9
    Loggerhead

    Loggerhead Well-Known Member

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    It's something you get used to. Just take the time to feel your way into the gears and don't slam or force your shifts. Synthetic fluids help a lot with the cold . . . And so do block heaters ;)
     
  10. Dec 22, 2013 at 4:22 AM
    #10
    iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    If it makes ya feel better, my 2007 2.7L does exactly this. Supposedly it's very common on the 5 speeds. When it's cold I have to double clutch first gear unless completely stopped, and second gear does a 'crunch' unless I have it perfectly timed. After 5 minutes it goes away. MT90 helps a little, and remember to shift slowly.
     
  11. Dec 22, 2013 at 7:35 AM
    #11
    armstrong750

    armstrong750 [OP] Member

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    Double clutching...hmmm. That's a technique I've heard about, but never quite understood. I've heard that it applies to shifting tractors and sometimes older cars, and involves letting out the clutch in neutral between gears. Is this right? And how does that help?
     
  12. Dec 22, 2013 at 8:32 AM
    #12
    fast5speed

    fast5speed Well-Known Member

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    Granny shiftin not double clutchin like ya shoulda been!


    Double clutching is closely related to rev matching. It's for transmissions without synchros, or with synchros that don't work very well. The job of the synchro is to bring the desired gear up to the same speed as the rest of the rotating assembly in the transmission, so they can cleanly mesh. If the synchro does not work effectively, you will hear a grind.

    The point of double clutching is to shift into neutral, then engage the clutch so that revving the engine will also speed up the transmission, therefore eliminating the need for synchros.

    It's pretty difficult to get it right. It takes a lot of practice and practice kinda destroys your transmission. It's only mainly used by truckers and racecar drivers anymore
     
  13. Dec 22, 2013 at 8:52 AM
    #13
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    There is no reason to double clutch a Tacoma. Not unless you want to shorten the life of the trans.

    With high mileage on a manual (over 100k) you should change out the fluid for sure. Deposits over time can make the blocker rings in the synchros sticky. Flushing the clutch is a good idea to do if the fluid is dark, but won't help your starting condition.

    To fix the starting condition, look under the dash at the clutch pedal. Push the pedal down by hand and as it reaches to floorboard you will see a small switch that gets pressed. That switch is your clutch start switch. Sometimes it simply needs adjustment. Other times it need replacement. If it does fail, or gives you a really difficult time, you can use the clutch override switch on the left side of the dash. To use it, turn the key on first, then push the switch once, release it, and start the engine normally.
     

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