95-97 Windshield Wiper Problems

I have an issue with my intermittent windshield wipers, where the wipers only work on low speed and do not return to resting position.

I have already tested the wiper motor as suggested in the FSM. The motor works perfectly when connected directly to the battery.


I've traced the wires and tested back to the firewall grommet, and at that point I still have no voltage for High speed.
I thought for sure I would find the issue to be in the wiring harness in the engine bay, as it has been previously chewed through by a rat and reconnected with new wires and butt connectors, however all of it has checked out so far.

I am trying to understand fully what is happening in the wiring diagram, which isn't helped by the wiring diagram numbering not matching the FSM. I believe my logic here is sound, but I am no electrical engineer and may have a mistake in my following reasoning.
Referencing Diagram connection numbering at the Wiper motor, I have connection at 1 (Low speed voltage), connection at 2 (Constant voltage), no connection for 3 or 4, and a connected ground at 5. No connection at 4 explained by no high speed, however when on high speed I still have voltage at connection 1. No connection at 3 explained by the lack of wiper return function.

From here I am a bit lost on where to go next.
Writing this all up has me realize that it seems my only course of action is to either remove the whole dash to access the wiring harness as it comes into the cab and trace it back to the switch, or take apart the wheel to access the switch.

I have a 95.5, and from what little I've seen, to access the wiper switch on 95-97 models you have to remove the steering wheel. Even if I get there, the part for early tacomas is nearly $300 (not sure I can justify that for myself for high wiper speed and return functions), and from this post
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-still-out-there.593038/page-29#post-20850078 it looks like it will have to be soldered, which I don't currently have the tools/know how to do well...
Removing the steering wheel and the airbag has me concerned when there is no literature or videos that I can find documenting the procedure for <98 models. I do not like the idea of messing with anything to do with an airbag blind, irrational or not.

Does anyone know if I have missed anything, or just have any knowledge to share?

 

so firstly, i dont think you need to take off steering wheel
so #6 pays 1hr to install the yellow means i selected on this database
i also selected #1 steering wheel

this is what shows up:

 

pays .5hr and 1hr for each
if the SW needed to be removed to install wiper stalk......this database deducts for labor over lap
so would show like this

 

now i went to my taco and i see why 1hr is needed
go under steering wheel, there are 3 screws that are visible on bottom steering column shroud
to get both the top and bottom shrouds off, you must remove the knee bolster trim
im thinking .2hr top shroud .2hr bottom shroud .4hr for knee bolster trim .2hr to install wiper stalk = 1hr

i have replaced a stalk on another japanese manufact.(subaru)
i did not have to take steering wheel off


in addition, i would take that stalk off and inspect
these older stalks/manual HVAC controls/etc can be taken apart/inspected/connections cleaned and re-installed....working!

great job BTW on electrical diagn!!
GL

 

It was my understanding that on the 95-97s the parts 6 and 7 on your diagram are attached to the hub 9, and the hub has to be removed to remove the switches. I haven't seen this first hand, but that was what I've gathered from other forum posts that naturally I cant find anymore. But you are right, if that were the case they should charge more hours, unless the hour book doesn't know that there's a difference in early models..

 

I found some items on ebay for sale to help me visualize, first here is the full hub with both switches installed. You can see theres a black wire bundle heading from the wiper switch into the large connector.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1158377159...q33imt1D9HhQvRUVevKPLng73JE7ZvNhoCjooQAvD_BwE

I believe that wire is the same as the loose wires show in the wipers for 95-97s, and you have to reconnect the wires into the larger connector.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/295816800661?epid=1022106608

Do you think this can all be done without taking off the steering wheel?

I think this is the problem that this guy ran into, where the switch mounting screws are different than all the information which relates to 98-04s, and he couldn't access the screws to remove the switch. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ntermittent-wipers-wont-park-down-too.662787/

This is the post where I first saw that the wheel has to be removed @mechanicjon s post here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/turn-signal-switch-on-my-96.621567/ and his reference to this post here https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...official-write-up.537400/page-2#post-17649982

If nothing else, this thread will serve well as a directory of all the information about the switches on 95-97s.

 

ahhhhhh
i see what your saying

that 1st link shows like an assembly being sold
that is both stalks and clock spring
in fact that looks like #5 in one of those microfiche pix i threw up there

ok couple things im seeing from those links
1)yes IF you need to RR the stalk, you will need to RI steering wheel/clock spring
(more on that in sec)
the only reason you need to do that is bc of those wire pins. they need to be looped around/thru that large pigtail plug facing firewall
2)those wire pins....they dont need to be soldered. just push the old pins out of the large pigtail plug and push in the new ones
with an awl or pick. tough at 1st but once you do one....the others take seconds
but to do this i would have that thing on a bench
3)very possible that you could remove the stalk only and get some 'slack' from those 6 wires
i even see a screw on the 'assmy link'
then inspect the inner connections of said stalk (there will be a ball bearing with gear teeth....that makes the stalk 'click' into place and stay in that position) now under the stalk there will be copper connections that need to be cleaned.
im old but best thing i can visually think of is those old toy electric Tayco Race tracks....u had to use eraser to clean the connections on the little race cars so the cars would get power from the toy track.
4)as far as removing air bag and clock spring
try looking up some vids on 'steering wheel swap'
air bag is easy but need to be careful with the clock spring
the basics on taking clock spring off
on tht that 1st link there are pix of both......
disconnect battery
steering wheel straight when taking off
there is an arrow on the clock spring.....that arrow HAS to be installed in same position tht you took it off
any clock spring is fragile bc of the 'ribbon' inside(can see this in the link too....looks like says seal on it)
that ribbon will snap and then you will have airbag lite on and no deployment

please let us know what you find!!!!

 

Well, it’s pretty obvious now I should have taken a closer look at the switch before I spent hours researching this. I took the steering column shroud off, easy just 4 screws and a few bolts for the knee panel. Upon removing the shroud I was greeted by this scene.
I quickly reconnected the wire and tested the wipers and everything is working perfectly. Now for a permanent fix I am struggling. The birdnest of wires connected to the plug in the picture snapped off the first time I tried to pull the plug out. Now it’s down to a short clump of wires which I can barely grasp with pliers and it isn’t enough to get the plug out of the connector.
Any advice on how to remove it so I can reattach the plug onto a new wire? I know you said remove the whole connector and push the plug, but is there anyway to pull it out as is?

 

Holy Crap!
Lemme think…..

 

Just for my reference
That black pin ‘box’
The entry points face towards front seat or firewall???

 

The wiper stalk wires plug into the box on the seat side. That picture is exactly it, the yellow cable looks like the airbag connector to me.

 

Ok
I’m really trying NOT to say you need to remove everything we have been talking about!

 

Yeah.. I have a feeling if I want to do it right that’s the only option. Or just stuff a wire into the stuck pin hole and throw some hot glue on it

 

So those pictures
It might be possible to unclip the yellow (yes airbag pigtail) from the blue platform. Then unclip the blue platform from the black pin pigtail
If this is possible, this might give you an extra inch of slack to work

damnit

 

U know
The more I look at that add picture
Looks like the black pin pigtail would just be free and loose
If you can contort to remove those clips
Praying Brother

 

Removed the blue airbag clips, was able to disconnect the two connectors going into the back of the box so now I have access to both sides of the stuck pin

 

Fucking A!!!!!!!!

 

Bc you said worked perfectly after ‘finger’ connecting the wires…..make sure u know what pins accept what wires

Remember u can use that other sales add to trace correct wires:

 

Have a beer too!!!