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95 clutch replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by sick 3.4 tacoma, Mar 15, 2011.

  1. Mar 15, 2011 at 11:34 PM
    #1
    sick 3.4 tacoma

    sick 3.4 tacoma [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Eric
    portland Oregon
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    2003 double cab 4x4
    elite bumper, xrc8 winch, 12in sub, cb, flowmaster, deck plate mod, 3in lift.
    over the past week or two my truck is in dire need of a clutch i was wondering if you guys know where to buy a cheap but reliable clutch. my truck has 191,000 miles and its a 4x4 v6 3.4 5spd and also im planing on doing all the work/instal my self and am wanting to know how difficult its going to be? thanks all info will be great!!:D:D:D
     
  2. Mar 16, 2011 at 10:37 AM
    #2
    97_tacoma

    97_tacoma Member

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  3. Mar 16, 2011 at 11:05 AM
    #3
    macgyver

    macgyver Well-Known Member

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    Brad
    Canton, GA
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    http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/clutch/toyota/tacoma.html

    These are Exedy/Daiken clutches. Good Stuff!

    I ran an exedy clutch in my accord I used to have.

    I have never done a tacoma clutch but I've done a few vehicles (240sx, FD Rx-7, Sentra B13 SER, and my '97 accord) RWD is much easier than FWD.
    Changing a clutch isn't that difficult. Get yourself a 2.5' (yes 2.5 feet) extension for your socket wrench with a swivel, it makes removing the upper bolts much easier. Also use air tools if possible.

    Rig up a cradle system out of some 2x4's for your floor jack if you don't have a tranny jack. You can buy a cheap tranny jack at harbor freight tools. I have one and it is worth every penny.

    The hardest part is lining the input shaft back up when remounting the tranny. It takes a little wiggling. Make sure you grease the input shaft and the part of the clutch disk the input shaft slides into to make re-assembly easier. Get yourself a Haynes manual, although basic it still provides decent instruction for a novice.

    ALWAYS use loctite on your pressure plate bolts, I have seen them back out before. Make sure you torque them in the proper sequence also.

    Make sure you pack the throwout bearing with grease really well. When in doubt, add a little more grease. This will help with squeaks later down the road.
     
  4. Mar 16, 2011 at 7:03 PM
    #4
    Avsguy33

    Avsguy33 Well-Known Member

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    Bingo. Only thing I will add is use red loctite on flywheel bolts and blue on pressure plate. Proper torque is essential.
     
  5. Mar 17, 2011 at 6:33 AM
    #5
    macgyver

    macgyver Well-Known Member

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    Good call. I probably should have added this detail. This is correct ^^^

    Also get your flywheel resurfaced. Most machine shops will do it for you and charge you $20-50. When I did my accord I actually just bought a new flywheel for $90 and then sold my stock one when I was done since I did my clutch job on saturday night when the machine shops were closed.
     
  6. Mar 17, 2011 at 6:54 AM
    #6
    STLharry

    STLharry Lube: It's the key to penetration.

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    '95-'97 camouflaged, ARB bull bar, RAT Products skid plate kit, sliders, Green Mountain Customs rear tube bumper and overland bed rack, King coilovers with Icon neoprene covers, defenestrated sway bar, OME Rear Suspension: CS046R leafs + AAL/5125 shocks/NWOR greasable hardware/U-bolt flip kit; S13WL Tundra calipers/pads/rotors, IPF H4 lenses and bulbs, IPF 968 DCG 100W lights, clapped out CB radio, Aussie-spec FJ60 inclinometer, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Superwinch S9000 with 12V Guy clock switch, 4' Hi-Lift, deckplate mod/grey wire mod/dif breather extensions, Duratrac tires, Sockmonkey bedside decals, boat cupholder, Dakine bike pad
    Took me a while to do mine, but that's because it was my first clutch job and I didn't have a lift to use. It's a wonderful experience though, I'd recommend it.

    I got the frame sealant crap all over myself though by the end...that part sucked.
     
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