95 Tacoma shakes at 60 mph

I have a 4wd 95 Tacoma reg cab w/ 245k that shakes when I’m going 60 but seams to shake less when I go faster or slower than 60, it’s enough that it shakes my voice when I talk. It has brand new balanced and re balanced tires and I’ve checked them for out of round, I replaced the tie rods, ball joints and a few other front end parts, greased the drive shafts U joints and got an alignment, there’s nothing else wrong with the truck other than slightly loose steering and a rear main leak, there’s no sounds, I can’t feel it in the steering wheel or petal and it doesn’t change if I push in the clutch or change rpms.

do you guys have any idea what could cause it?

 

I would check for a stiff Ujoint or bad carrier bearing first.

 

Thank you. I looked it up and looks like other are having carrier or center bearing issues at the same speed.

 

Wow , good size rubber on that critter .
I am assuming they must be very difficult to road force balance using the Haweka adapter .
Are those aftermarket rims lug centric or hub centric ?
Have you rotated them from front to back to see if there is any difference ?
I agree that using the factory rims and tires for an initial test balance would be great idea .
To properly check universal joints , the driveshaft must be removed

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/vibration-diagnostics-for-all-tacomas-write-up.520607/

 

Just because they were balanced unless you did the job yourself does not mean it was correct.

Also I have seen tire shops put lug nuts on one super tight as the air pressure drops the rest all different that is enough sometimes to cause a shake.

 

Good advice above but when you said you balanced your tires, did you also rotate them?

 

I’m not sure, I bought them from a tire shop but this is what I found online, mine are 18s though. One of the tires looked about a quarter inch out of round so I had it swapped out but it didn’t make a difference. I had them balanced during install then I went back and had them all balanced again. I’ll have them rotated when I’m done working on the drive shafts that’s a good idea. I had an alignment done after I replaced the front end parts and they did a good job (local alignment shop not teenage les Schwab or Firestone workers) I removed the front drive line to replace the U joints but driving without the driveline made no difference. I’m going to re install it and do the rear driveline this weekend, then I’m going to do the steering rack bushings.

 

I also have have 1 1/2” spacers

 

“Firestone employees”
Lmao. This hit home for me. I worked at Firestone for 6 years, not as a teenager, but some of the junk “techs” they employed always made me laugh. The amount of comebacks was incredible, especially for alignments.
Their were two of us that made good with a couple of the business accounts and we made a ton of money doing all their alignments.

Anyway, are the wheels being road force balanced? How much weight is being added to the wheels? Shaking at 60mph is notoriously almost always wheel balance. The balance goes as small as adding 1/4 oz weights so even a small bit off can cause a shake.

just my $.02

 

Road Force balancing done correctly should solve this...I just dealt with the same problem regarding my Miata.I had them Road Force balanced by an incompetent tech.The shake was still there.I went to a different shop and they did it properly.

 

Ask about having the tires balanced on the road force machine. Along with everyone else here saying that, I’ve seen balance issues be fixed with that. Even if they aren’t using the road force, they should be zeroing out all your wheels on the machine if you come in for a rebalance. I know this from working at a shop first hand.

 

Thanks guys, I will do that when I’m done installing the parts I ordered. That makes me feel better about my issues with Firestone because I was beginning to think it was just my luck, I got the lifetime alignment package and I’ve had to take my Acura and Silverado back for re alignment multiple times because weren’t aligned and they forgot things like tightening the tie rods, they both still pull and have crooked steering wheels. The Chevy had perfect alignment before I went there but I got new tires so I figured might as well... big mistake. I took my Toyota to a mechanic shop and they got it right the first time.

 

After I first got the tires installed and I noticed it had a shake I stopped in at les Schwab because it was closer then the shop I got em done at and after pulling a tire off they said sorry we don’t work on vehicles that have spacers and put the tire back on. I took it home and one of my lug nuts flew off on the way there.

 

I got my steering rack and pinion bushings replaced and it tightened my steering wheel but now the shake is more noticeable in my steering wheel (barely) which tells me it has something to do with a front tire or wheel. I haven’t been able to find a shop with a road force balancer though. I also noticed when I’m coming up to a stop at low speed I can feel the brakes grabbing and releasing on the petal like maybe a rotor is warped.

 

I couldn’t find a shop with a road force balancer but I got my tires rotated and it feels the same but as I was on my way to get that done my front drivers brake started smoking, they told me I need new rotors calipers and pads. I’m going to swap em out myself in the next couple weeks and see if that is the problem. If I can get the shaking to stop this thing will drive as good as new.

 

its possible to be warped rotors. we had a truck come in the shop recently that had warped rotors and i guess the pads dragged enough to vibrate/shake off the brakes. just something else to look at

 

I would be super happy if that was it, if not then I’ll have to live with it because I’ve gone over every other possibility

 

I’m experiencing a similar issue with my 99. For what it’s worth, sounds like we have a similar setup. I have 3”, 285s on 17” sport wheels. I have 1” spacers in order to fit the wheels. Anyways, within the year I’ve had the entire front end replaced. Just shy of $2k and I put new tires on at the same time. After all that work and fresh parts the shake was still there... I’m not insinuating anything cause the truck has 325k on it. All that work needed to be done and those parts replaced. It was time. Just saying, all that and the shake was still very much there. I came on here to get answers and someone suggested warped wheels. I thought that was silly as hell and I never would’ve considered that... some miles later, I rotated my tires and while doing so I noticed one wheel/tire had an ungodly amount of wheel weights on it. So the fella that suggested that might’ve been on to something. I have yet to address the issue, but you could say I’m in the market for some 17” sport wheels.

 

Being a regular cab, you have a single driveshaft.
How much lift do you have?
Is the rear lifted with blocks?
I suggest checking your pinion angle.

Good luck.

 

i have a 1.5” body lift and 2” blocks, I drove around without the front driveshaft and it didn’t change anything so that would narrow it down to the rear but sometimes I’ve noticed it seams to shake at lower speeds as well. If the new brake system doesn’t work I’ll look into that, Rn my front brake is dragging so it needed to be replaced anyway.