'96 4x4 Has Power but won't crank? Battery?

When I turn the key, the interior lights come on and radio, dash lights but the starter doesnt make a peep. No click or anything.

Battery is probably 5-6 years old, could it be that even though the inside lights are coming on? Just want to rule out other stuff. Replaced the starter like 8 years ago after that common click problem was happening. No problems since.

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

Had this problem on my 86 4Runner, turned out that the battery terminal clamps were not tight enough on the battery.

It's worth a check.

 

So you turn the key to start and the lights still stay on? No dimming? If that's the case, sounds like the starter isn't getting activated.

I would take the small wire off the starter (solenoid activation wire) and jump it directly to the battery positive. MAKE SURE ITS IN NEUTRAL! The engine should crank, even with the key off. If that works, your problem lies in the starter relay, clutch switch, wiring, etc. If it does not work, suspect starter or battery cables from battery to starter, or engine ground.

 

Its either your battery or the starter like joe said.

Test the battery using a voltmeter for 12v

It shouldnt be your starter contacts because they usually go slower. It would have been hard to start it over the last couple weeks.

 

This has happened to me a few times. If its not clicking, its the battery.

what happened to my battery is that it was fully charged..but had no voltage(only like 2.1v).

Take it out and get it tested at a parts store.

 

This is what I was thinking.

 

Better yet, remove the cables and clean the battery posts and inside the cable connectors using a device like the one shown below. I've seen corrosion cause the same issue, especially if the clamps weren't tight enough.

This is the first thing I do whenever I am troubleshooting a battery issue.

​

 

Does not hurt to check that your solenoid wire is actually connected at the starter. Found a po on mine had broken the connector. I'd also check battery voltage with a meter or take it to an autoparts store to check if for you on their testers.

 

I'm beeting loose negative cable clamp at battery. As other have said, clean it up and re-clamp for good connection. Good luck.

 

I bet bad battery. There can be enough juice to power accessories but not enough cranking amps to start the car. Pull the battery and get it tested or use a multimeter.

 

If the terminals wernt getting a good enough contact, his lights wouldnt come on at all. Same thing happened to me on my negative side.

Its the battery V or starter.

 

Thanks all for all the response.

So i ran the multimeter and got a reading of 11.4.

I tried again to turn the key, everything comes on and the starter doesn't crank. The interior clock dimms all the way down when I try and turn the key, the second I let off, it brightens back up.

Another detail to note...the other day I tried jumping it and got the same thing.

Sooo, what do you guys think? Should I try replacing the battery (6 years old) or start troubleshooting the terminals and starter.

Bruno

 

Battery voltage is too low to start with. I used to remember the percentages of loss by voltage level.

Either way, a good battery will typically show 12.4 volts. When you start the vehicle it will typically drop to around 9.xx volts under the load. You could have a few things. First, battery could be bad. I'd charge it up and have it tested at a parts store that has a pro tester.

Replace if bad.

 

Reinstall tested good battery or new one. Clean all connections and verify they are tight.

Then, as you mention having to have the truck jump started before, I'd test to see if there is a current draw on the system draining the power out of your battery while it is sitting.

Simple to do with a test light. Doors closed, everything off, disconnect the neg cable and clip the test light clip to the neg cable end. Then touch the probe end to the neg post. If the light illuminates then you have a draw on the system. You can pull one fuse at a time to see if you can find on what circut it is on.

Specify to have your doors closed as if they are open when you test then the fact that the dome lamp circuit is completed (due to the door being open) will illuminate the test probe and you'll get a false draw reading.

That should get you started.

 

If you have been trying to start it for a while I'm not surprised to see 11.4v on your meter. If you tried jump starting with a decent set of jumper cables clipped to the post and clamp on the battery and got the same results, I would start to suspect the solenoid or starter. Have you tried banging on the starter a few times? Check the wires at the starter? I would still clean and tighten battery connections. Interested to see what it turns out to be.

 

Not always true. You can have enough current flowing to power things that require very little current but not enough to turn the starter. I've cleaned terminals and started vehicles in that very scenario.

That said, at this point I think it is the battery as well. I just recommend cleaning up and tightening first to eliminate that as a possibility. It also helps on a jump if you are connecting to the cable clamps since you can charge the suspect battery with the other vehicle for a few minutes by letting it run for a while.

 

If it's a six year old battery I'd replace it with new just to eliminate it as a possibility. If the new battery doesn't fix it it won't be wasted $ especially if you have cold winters where you are.

 

x2

 

A good batt will generally have up 13 + volts (& holding) it needs this much to energize starter normally, I recently just bypassed the solenoid wire altogether (the OEM one bundled into the harness) because of this issue, now have button, no problems