96 5vz xcab 4x4 TACO TURBO BUILD

Hey guys I have an older thread going through the first stages of my turbo build, but the combination of bad title and off topic conversations have led me to want to start from scratch.
I started off with a rear mount turbo build but quickly got tired of the lack of potential and excess hassle.

The good things when going rear mount:
•Definate HP improvement over stock (like 20-40+ with no other mods or tuning)
•Cheap (as cheap as a few hundred dollars depending on what you already have and are able to do [weld, turn a wrench, have a turbo laying around])
•Easy

The not-so-good things
•The lag and lack of exhaust pressure due to the distance from the intake manifold and exhaust manifold really reduce the potential of the turbo
•you need an expensive oil pump ($100-$200) to pump the oil from the turbo back to the oil fill cap on the engine.
The wires and oil lines to and from the oil pump are MUCH more vulnerable to debris and damage being under the bed instead of under the hood (if the pump doesn't work then the engine will push the oil out of the turbo seals into the intake and exhaust creating lots of smoke and leaning out your air/fuel mixture (very bad for your engine and you risk running out of oil).
•The pump is usually wired to the accessory switch (key only power). So when you are starting the engine, the return oil pump isn't powered (which means that there is a good chance that for that small amount of time before the engine starts, your engine oil pump is pushing a small amount of oil out of the turbo seals into your intake and exhaust). This means that oil coats your whole intake eventually and messes with your MAF sensor readings and really kills your power potential and gas mileage if you don't clean your MAF often.
There are ways to mitigate these problems but the more money you put into perfecting a rear mount turbo setup, the more you could be putting into the real deal (traditional front mount).
•If you're a clutz like me, you WILL occasionally turn the oil pump switch off because you want to listen to the radio with the engine off and forget to turn the switch on before you start your engine... and then 2 minutes later as you're driving you have a smoke cloud the size of Texas coming out of your exhaust and your truck looses most of its power because oil is being burned through your engine because it got into your intake (not a huge deal, you just have to refill your oil and spray your intake with carb cleaner)

NO forced induction conversion should go long without increasing the fuel intake needed to compensate for the extra air.

The old threat is here, and you can get some good info in the 11 pages
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/294497-95-5-96-3-4-tacoma-turbo-problem.html

 

So far I have everything I need besides the headers and the extra injector controller. My recent purchase is a magnaflow high-flow cat and muffler (straight through design)



It's not welded together yet but all I need is a 3" VBand flange to weld on to the cat.
The header and downpipe kit I'm going to buy is here:
http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchan...R&Product_Code=MF-DP-5VZFE-KIT&Category_Code=

PLEASE don't tell me about the quality of the CX kit or tell me about your doubts of its quality. I have a welder and stainless steel rods to fix it up if anything goes sour...

 

Some other goodies that just came today. 10AN oil drain fittings and an O2 sensor flange/bung to weld in after the magnaflow cat (the CX downpipe comes with the pre-cat O2 bung and wideband bung welded in).

 

LOL.

 

For future fic wiring assistance.

 

Grazie!

 

I guess I'll just start adding pics of all my parts...


2.5" charge pipes and intercooler

 

Damn, that shit is small!

 

I know man... My year of grill doesn't have room for crap. I was thinking about also rigging up a water to air cooler (like redneck ghetto style, not all fancy) to cool it down even further. I can source the parts for about $150.
This tiny IC works great though. I shoved my 1400W heat gun on one side and the air on the opposite side was chill as a cucumber for a good two minutes.

*EDIT*
PHUCK water to air ICs. Did like a ton of research today and turns out in every example in like 5 google search pages that even a small a-a IC is more efficient than a w-a.... especially after the water heats up to ambient temps.
Drag car: a-w since you can use ice
Street car: a-a since it won't get heat-soaked with even small amounts of airflow.

 

Turbo... (It's already on but being used as the rear mount)

 

What are the specs on that turbo? Sorry if that info is already posted in your old thread somewhere, I just don't recall seeing it.

 

T4 .58 hot/.60 cold 3" in and out with a 2" charge. That's all I know about it. If I didn't know any better I'd say it was exactly like yours

 

FYI my check next Friday goes to the headers and HOPEFULLY my check two weeks after that will go to paying my boss to help me put them in with the oil pan.
Don't let your popcorn get stale fellas lol

 

Headers are ordered.

 

Sweet!

 

Hey dude I was really checking out the CX kit and I noticed the downpipe goes passed where the stock cat ends by at least an inch. Are you planning on keeping your stock cat installed?

 

Just cut the exhaust at the back end and shift. Will need new hangers welded though. Or take out the cat

 

Yeah it sucks, but it looks like he's still going to have to have it welded either way. That would have been great to be able to just connect the stock cat to the CX downpipe with that vband to OEM cat flange he posted on my other thread.

 

The rest of the clamps and couplings came today. I'm going to mount the IC and cut the diamond aluminum plate I have into a funnel (like the new F150 intercooler design) sometime this week.