96 taco steady bearing replacement

Hey all, just replaced the original steady bearing in the truck due to a really bad vibration from around 60-100 km. Got the new bearing from Napa and within 250 yards down the road it immediately failed and almost shook every bolt loose in the truck before I got stopped, assumed bad bearing and got another identical one today, installed and didn’t get 10 feet out of the shop before identical issue happened. Just wondering if anyone else has had a similar issue or has any advice on the replacement process TIA

 

What is a "steady" bearing?

 

Carrier bearing or centre support bearing

 

Did you clock the driveshaft back exactly how it was before you took it apart?

 

Yeah I paint pen marked it before removal

 

Well its binding up somehow....resistance down stream
or bad angle.....

Your gonna have to provide little back ground......
like how long owned......how long first vib started....
have u fixed or changed anything around it......
do u have excessive lift.....
have lockers.....
type of differential... limit slip or lock....

 

Universal joints and everything touching axle I'd take a close look.....


We see a lot of problems here.......and yours is rare.......
hopefully someone else has stepped it too.....

Would jack rear and take wheels off and start spinning each piece one by one look for resistance.....

definitely something bad gonna on there.....

 

Owned for around 5 years now vibration started about a week before I first changed it, old steady bearing was clearly worn out due to sagged rubber and sloppy bearing

haven’t done any sort of repairs from transmission to rear diff aside from greasing ujoints, all ujoints and input and output shafts are tight

just a standard 2 inch rear and 3 inch up front

both diffs open

Seemed like when u put the bearing on it gets really tight and hard to spin even before setting bearing according to spec, starting to think it might be the seal binding up somehow

 

Was doing some googling and seen that the spicer and higher end bearings have a different flatter looking seal then the cheap one I got

 

A little research would have gone a long way here. There is one non-OEM part that some folks have had success with, and outside of that, only OEM is suggested. The parts store bearings don't last.

There is a sticky at the top of the forum with detailed information on changing the carrier bearing. Pay particular attention to the staking nut procedure. You over torque the nut to set the bearing, and then back it off, and retorque to the final spec on the nut. You also have to make sure that the bearing is perpendicular to the shaft when tightening everything. Also have to pay attention to which orientation the bearing is installed, there are holes on the bearing, 1 on side, 2 on the other- its possible to install it backwards and upside down.

 

Maybe some pics might help.....if nothing obvious pops up....
leaning toward side you put that back together wrong, or something missing
need to look at the FSM......
I have one for 99.....I'll see if I can cut and post from that pdf file....

 

Thanks yeah both times I set the bearing at 136 ftlbs then backed off 1 turn and torqued to 60ftlbs and staked nut. Both times had ears on new bearing toward flange, was trying to get an oem bearing but parts are difficult to get up here in northern bc short of ordering from the states

 

Specs for setting: 134 ft lbs
Final spec for stake nut: 51 ft lbs

 

Sorry meant to say 50 not 60 gotta love a classic typo when it comes to torque specs included some pics of new bearing how I had it in the truck on the last 2 pics I’m not sure if those seals or dust covers were supposed to stay in or not new bearing didn’t come with any

 

This is one of the most replaced parts.....dont get it..
and more than half of those use non oem......spicer one is most popular.....

So your hubs are free spinning when u twist diff input.....that is no binding....

 

Yeah I think I’m gonna go with the spicer and wait the 3 weeks for it to get here, needed my truck for work and decided on the soonest available part and now I’m paying for it and stuck with front wheel drive for a while

 

Again look down stream for any binding.......brand shouldnt make a differance, at least for 20K or so.....

Check engine and tranny mounts.....

 

Yeah I spun it all by hand and it’s seems to be just the bearing that’s bound up, even before setting bearing its way to hard to spin, thinking it might be those seals in the 2nd and 3rd picture but they are way to seized on the come off nicely and I’m hesitant to remove them due to lack of part availability, was really hoping this was a common issue that someone had dealt with before but doesn’t seem to be the case here

 

Do you have a spacer behind the carrier......

and that rear slip joint is sliding in and out.....

 

Does Toyota call it a “steady” bearing, cause that is a really annoying name for it.

Could be a u-joint.