97 tacoma 2.4L Automatic - Stalls when no acceleration

Today after leaving my house, my truck stalled out about a mile down the road. It would start back up, as long as i was giving it gas (pressing the accelerator). If I let off the gas, it would die.

Some history, I also have a starter problem that I have been putting off. So, when i start up the truck, Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't. I think maybe I wore out the fuel pump with trying to start the truck.

Does this sound like a Fuel Pump problem, bad gas, fuel filter? I do not have a fuel pressure gauge to check the line. I think the EFI relay is ok (I swapped it out for another, and no change).

1997 Toyota Tacoma 2.4L Automatic Trans. 16V SOHC

 

Used a OBD2 code reader today, said there were "multiple misfires"... spoke to a shade-tree mechanic friend, who suggested to change the Plugs and Wire.. did that, no change. Looking into changing the Distributor cap and ignition rotor next. Am I off base?

 

Well, distributor cap and rotor changed out, they were pretty burned up, However, still not fixed my issue. I am thinking it is NOT anything to do with that system.

 

Try fuel injectors.

 

Jesus, you too??

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/no-start-engine-is-getting-spark-and-fuel-fried-ecu.387148/

 

Have you cleaned your idle air control and checked for vacuum leaks?

 

Vacuum leak check is the next thing on my list... I will also go clean the IAC and post results. A friend of mine suggested changing the Fuel pressure regulator,,, changed it, no fix.

 

you really should get a code reader and see what your ECU says. it keeps the fault codes stored til cleared/fixed. could be a bad ground or even a bad/non existent timing belt.

 

Stop throwing parts at it, diagnose the problem. A vacuum leak would not cause a stall out mid trip. It is possible your issue presents itself after warm up. Is this fair to say?

A non existent timing belt?

 

i was looking for a car for my girlfriend. a guy with a civic that was running like shit said that the car was running horribly after he heard a snap in the engine compartment. put my OBD scanner to it and all but 1 cylinder was misfiring. im assuming the timing belt was gone, leaving the cam sensor stuck in a position to only allow 1 cylinder to fire off. all evidence pointed to the timing belt breaking.

 

Thats a slipped timing belt, not a non-existant one. Ive seen engines with non-existant timing belts, they dont run at all and have lots of loose metal banging around.

 

I was only a half a mile from my house when it stalled out. Was the first time it had ever happened. Have not been able to drive it since.
I had the cylinder pressure checked, they were ok. How do i check for bad/broken timing without taking the engine apart?

I do have the throttle body off the truck and will clean it out this afternoon. I could not take the IAC off the throttle body because it has brass screws, and they were wanting to strip out, so i left them alone. I will clean it out while still attached. Also, the Air intake manifold is FULL of carbon, can I spray that down with Carb Cleaner as well? Will it hurt anything if it has that spray down the tubes?

 

just take off the timing cover. main thing to see is, is there a chain in good condition. secondly, if you can, spin the crank until you see the timing marks meet up on the cam(s) and crank. use a chilton manual or toyota manual to verify timing marks are in the correct position. if not, get them where they're supposed to be by yourself or a mechanic.

use intake manifold cleaner rather than carb cleaner. and don't worry about spraying it down any metal intake tubes. won't do anything but ignite when it gets into the cylinders.

 

I dealt with this exact issue with the IAC. I used some channellocks to get the two i could grip off. The last one that you cant grip, just turn the whole housing to get to it. I replaced them with M5x20 screws, as well as a lock washer.

 

Get Seafoam Spray and hose down the fucker, spray some down the spark plug holes into the cylinders as well. Let it sit overnight. Prepare for a HUGE amount of smoke when you start it up.

 

Thanks Undying... I dont have any intake cleaner, so used the throttle body cleaner, put it all back together and it did idle!! It still stalled out a couple of times while test driving it down the street. but it starts and idles and drives now... just gotta get the stalling to stop... also, I now have a good bit of exhaust coming from the engine compartment (or so it seems that is where it is coming from). maybe it is just fluids burning off the block that have spilled here and there.

 

Will do, have to wait till pay day for more products. (Friday).. will update with more when i have more.. THANK YOU all for your awesome suggestions!

 

I got some SeaFoam into the Gas and Crankcase, the truck is idling smoothly now, but once i out a load on the engine when i let off the gas, it revs-down then just dies. I dont have a timing light or ODB reader on hand to check things, but will try that this weekend if still needed.. Any ideas on why it dies after reving up?

 

Working on your own cars requires eventually buying expensive tools. Though the best are usually the cheapest. Whatever the case, this is something that can be solved with a multimeter, vacuum and compression gage, maybe some starter fluid, just need to know how to use them.

Also dont put seafoam in the crankcase unless planning to change the oil soon after, it will break down the oil.

 

I wonder if a new or different EGR valve control switch would make a difference and check the EGR valve isn't stuck open or closed.