97' tacoma 3.4 engine failed compression test no start

Hey. First I want to say thank you for hosting this forum, I've used this website many times and this if my first post. Anyways I have a pretty serious problem and am looking for ideas, guidance.
So I bought this White 97' Manual 4x4 3.4liter (I think dlx trim) in Louisiana February from a mechanic shop that works on toyotas run by Hondurans (who are known for their love of toyotas). I inspected it(basic knowledge) and it checked out. I knew I was going to have to put a little work into it but it ran great when I test drove it. Lots of power( towed a 7k lb kubota).
They told me they put a "new" engine from a 4runner and clutch in it. I should have asked why. Also I think it's a newer engine(has pieces welded shut) and wasnt wired right, my friend cant read most of the specs with his 15k$ reader. Fuel pump info shows up but no engine info...
Sorry for the background but it may be important...
So May 2020 I drove home, 200 miles north. On the way up, a check engine light came on the way up, no difference in performance tho. 3 days later I had it checked and was told it was a camshaft sensor code. Mechanic didn't want to replace it for me and told me it would be difficult because of the timing cover(lies)
So I got an oil change since buying truck and I drove it back to new orleans. Halfway the truck started to sputter and if I gave it gas would die but kept pulling enough to get me to an exit then died. No start. I taxied to a part store and by the time I got back, it started up and drove me back to new orleans. Drove fine, no issues, check engine light even went off... no idea...
3 days later, check engine light comes on within minutes and dies in the same way. This time no start. Truck is now in front of my house for 2 weeks. Replaced camshaft sensor and crankshaft sensor(both were filthy and dirty, camshaft sensor didn't have o-ring in it) Timing belt not broke(have not done timing test)
The most important is we have spark and fuel and no start. Even added brake cleaner and no start!!!
Compression test failed. Left side 120, 90, 60. Right side 30 30 ,stopped testing.
Should I do another compression test?
I'm afraid my pistons are trashed... I'm not sure if it's a noninterference engine (I think its newer and interference)
So im faced with the reality of buying a new engine after buying this truck 4 months ago...
But part of me wonders what in the world would cause this and if the engine is fixable...
All thoughts and ideas appreciated!

 

Welcome aboard new member

 

First if your Compression test was correct your Truck would have run quite poor.

If it was that bad fuel mileage your 2oo mile trip would have taken an easy $100.00 in fuel you would watch the gas gauge move

Anything strange on your drive that would make you think rings or valves no coolant loss ?

I would try the test again .

The 3.4 is non interference engine so that is one less worry.

Were you getting lots of smoke ??

If it was indeed a Cam sensor or anything in that circuit the ECM shuts off the fuel to what it sees as a non running engine .

As you can see the cam sensor is quite easy to access

The thing is we have no idea just what the real codes are.

So if your mechanic ?? was unable to read the codes they just said Cam sensor and said to hard to change maybe they really had no idea and was comparing it to other engines half the engine needs torn apart .

Try and stay calm and not throw parts hoping you get it right..

It sucks when someone did a engine swap and you have no idea just what was done .

I wish I was close enough to help in person.

 

First off, you were a knucklehead for thinking it's okay to buy from those shops, I say that with all the affection in the world. There are plenty of those type of shops here in Utah also, they love Toyota alright. They love to get em cheap and do the minimum necessary to keep them running.
They love Toyota because it can be abused and keep going.
We love Toyota because they are high quality and highly reliable, ESPECIALLY WHEN KEPT IN IT'S ORIGINAL DESIGN AND SHAPE.

All bets off for yours now with who knows what's been done to it. That sucks man. You want that ecu and the OBDII system to be working properly.
If you could know what's been modified and if you could return it to original would be the way to go. Who knows wtf this chop shop modded??? Unless you're a serious enthusiast and know these things like back of your hand, you might be looking into some rather big changes. (sell it, lesson learned and avoid this BS and headache in future)

 

Something is off with the compression numbers. Test wasn't done right, or the gauge was faulty, or something. It wouldn't have ever run with compression like you report.
Maybe have the test done again? You need to know the PSI 'dry' as well as test it again 'wet'. That'll tell us if issue likely in cylinder rings or in the valves/heads.

 

@cruiserguy
I'mma stand by my first post on New members first posts
Amirong

 

timing belt slipped...

 

You could check the timing marks on the cams and crank easily now that there’s no coolant in the engine. Removing the fan can make it easier to do. Get familiar with @Timmah! ’s channel on maintenance. You get a good amount of info for free. Watch this 2 part series until it gets to the way to check the timing.

https://youtu.be/vHC46ypHxWc
https://youtu.be/mErd7xoBS9I

This is a series for changing a head on the engine which also will show you how to check timing marks. There’s six of them. Part 5 is where he puts the timing belt on. You’d learn a lot from the 5 hours of videos I’m linking.

https://youtu.be/voLBRDZL9f
https://youtu.be/in4VdfnHdI0
https://youtu.be/yTsocmNdBpQ
https://youtu.be/nFYEoWTX0YU
https://youtu.be/iQ7-wmjo6PE
https://youtu.be/5ysgDyea1GU
A redo on the compression test wouldn’t be a bad idea.

 

This could be a fun one. If he really wants to fix this thing right, I wanna be along for the ride. Even if he just wants to get it running, that sounds like a fun ride as well

 

I second the check of the timing belt. If it is jumped that is unusuall unless it was a high mileage belt. The picture of your belt I find it a little concerning. All of that frayed stuff on the cam position sensor is timing belt material mixed with oil... is that "new" debris or did they not clean the the front of the motor when they put the new belt on?

 

cliffs

Get to know your truck

 

Sucks to not have hands on.

Going to be interesting

Be nice to know the real codes

 

You guys are great. Thank you so much. I'm def on the fence about doing it right and gettin it back to original or just selling it. I got it for 5500 so I have some room to spend $$$.
I will try the compression test again and check for tdc with cam and crank.
I feel like If i do it right i need to learn how to get the obd2 and ECU working with the engine properly. If I put a good engine in there and wire it properly, that might be a good start to correct this nightmare.
As for Wyoming 09 response, The mechanic up North checked the engine code and it was like a p0340 code, I think. When I got back home the engine light went off and now i cant check the code, nothing shows up(no codes or live engine stats)... that's probably the most frustrating part. I didn't notice much drop in gas mileage but I was consistently getting 13mpg which was disappointing but I blamed it on the fat tires.

I'm shopping for a good 97 engine if anyone has ideas. I have a hookup with LKQ that can get me a used one for 1000$ and 6 month warranty. :/

 

Found this capacitor issue on my ecu. C417. I guess I'll get another computer and try that. Maybe it will help with running the diagnostic. Not a lot shows up when equipment is hooked up to it

 

Did you ever figure out what was wrong? I got a 3.4 t100 that has no compression. When I turn it over it sound just like the starter is spinning and nothing else.... yet the motor is in fact turning over. I’m so confused it ran great a few days ago lol

 

@16tacoguy I AM STILL in the process. I just ordered a new ECM from a place in California called ToyAuto Mart. Seemed trustworthy and had my part.(nevermind, just called me back and said it wasn't the right part and waiting for a refund...) Called Napa Auto parts and they are no help with 97 tacomas. Apparently they want nothing to do with it along with every other AUTO SHOP due to the age. And noone can recommend an ECM repair company. Internet results came up with FS1(flagship one) and some other mixed review repair companies. Does anyone have any luck with that? I would still like to repair my existing one or sell it to someone to fix. I think im going to go with FLagship one even though i've heard such mixed reviews. Most Car Shops use them and get good products from what I've heard.. *Cross fingers*

 

You may not need an ECM repair shop, look for a place that fixes computers (I don't mean installs software) and other digital gear. There's a good chance that once the magic smoke escaped from the capacitor, everything else was left unharmed. If you replace the capacitor and repair the burned traces, you could be back in business. With a little bit of studying at YouTube U, and a hundred dollars worth of tools, you could even do this on your kitchen table.

 

This place was recommended to me but I have not used their services https://circuitboardmedics.com/

 

That looks like the right sort of service.

 

Yea i called them and they only deal with Rav-4's for toyota... Also talked to circuit board person and they are afraid that its not just the capacitor and tracks but that big Chip that has the burnt stuff next to it. If that has to be replaced then i would need reprogramming... Which brings me back to square One. I think im gonna call around to a bunch of Toyota Dealerships and see if any can help. The 2 I have called said they dont fool with stuff that old...(no respect for the elder cars). And then last Option is calling Flagship One and hoping they dont scam me.